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hand-made sewing?????

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  • fashiondisaster
    Member
    • May 2011
    • 77

    hand-made sewing?????

    I would like to understand some things :

    -many brands of which we speak here on SZ, say that their products are hand-sewn.

    I wish someone tell me in detail.
    I ask for this help for various reasons:
    1) I have seen many products/ many brands (some even use them for my personal look), and looking the seams, this is clearly made ​​with a machine, and not by hand.
    Some finishing touches (buttons etc.), is true are sewn by hand.

    2)Many of these brands, are very small companies ... (no massification, market niche etc etc) ... it seems so impossible that they have a lot of tailors who sew everything by hand.
    On the other hand, my grandmother was a seamstress, and she said me that to make a jacket sewing by hand (to make it very well) it takes at minimum two days.
    So if we think of a niche production of 100 jackets ....for one person ... it takes 200 days ...
    This is impossible ...

    3) I did some research on the net .... and I saw that there are special sewing machines that reproduce the point of hand stitching ... and I wondered if these brands are using this machine ...

    My basic question is: What mean for "a dress/shoes etc hand made"?

    Thanks to all who help me..

    FD
    SEEKING SELECTIVE REASERCH
  • marc1975
    Member
    • Dec 2010
    • 77

    #2
    Hi,

    as far as I know, if you want to get a garment that is sewn entirely by hand (meaning that no machine was used to do the stitching), you will have to look closer at Haute Couture.

    According to the book "Couture sewing techniques" by Claire Shaeffer, Haute Couture garments are still done by hand. Quote: "During the construction process, most of the sewing is done by hand. Thousands of perfectly spaced basting stitches mark or hold the garment layers together temporarily so a design can be fitted on the client or dress form, stitched permanently or precisely pressed. Then these stitches are taken out so the construction can continue. Again and again, the fabric is painstakingly shaped and manipulated in the hands or on a form until the garment is completed. [...] All of the hand sewing that goes into making a couture garment distinguishes it from a comparable design in luxury ready-to-wear, which is known in France as prêt-à-porter. [...] [for RTW] as a result, there's considerably less hand work on many luxury RTW garments..."

    So I doubt that any of the garments that people on SZ buy are truly handmade in the sense that you expect. Most of the times, it will be a combination of machine and hand sewing.

    There are of course differences in the construction of a garment that might not be visible at first, but become visible when taking it apart, e.g. how the interfacing is attached to the outer layers of the fabric. This can either be done by glue or by a special blind stitch (couldn't find the English translation for that) for which I am not sure whether it can be done by machine.
    Look at this fully-automated suit production. It actually shocked me how little involvement from a human being was necessary:



    When it comes to shoes, there are also different grades of "handmade". Look at the following video. At around 5:55 - 6:24, you can see that a machine forms the upper leather around the shoe last and places tacks into the shoe.



    These are things that are done completely by hand by my cobbler, which take much more time than what you can see on that video.
    Nonetheless, my cobbler always says that he prefers machine stitching for some of his work, as he wouldn't be able to achieve the evenly-spaced stitches of a machine by hand. In addition, the machine will always pull with a constant tension, while you won't be able to do this by hand.
    I also have shoes from Barker (which you can see in the video), and my cobbler said that they were constructed nicely. So machine-production doesn't have to be bad.

    Cheers,
    Marc

    Comment

    • eat me
      Senior Member
      • May 2009
      • 648

      #3
      It's just a degree of hand-sewing/finishing involved. Each brand understands it differently. Some object-dye things by hand, some place finishing stitches by hand (MA+ is a good example, but with it some garments are completely sewn by hand, but mainly because there isn't much to sew), some consider if a single person made a garment start-to-finish, with no conveyor-belt type production involved - it's hand made.

      To be honest, I wouldn't worry about it too much.

      Comment

      • fashiondisaster
        Member
        • May 2011
        • 77

        #4
        For Mark1975 : very very thanks...for your complete answer...now is all must clear for me...

        For eat Me : thanks you too....is just a corious to be albe/know that is the truth..
        SEEKING SELECTIVE REASERCH

        Comment

        • soulshui
          Senior Member
          • Nov 2011
          • 111

          #5
          enjoying those informative video thanks for sharing!!

          Comment

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