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Collateral Concepts: Discontinuity

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  • Chinorlz
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2006
    • 6422

    Collateral Concepts: Discontinuity

    Good evening everyone!

    This is a thread that I'd like to continue to add to over the coming months/years. Given my current schedule for surgical training, the creation and presentation of formal collections is not feasible. For the foreseeable future, I'll be presenting individual pieces and projects as they are completed.

    This method will also allow me more time and opportunities to discuss the design/construction process as well as the materials and history behind them.

    We are calling the process "discontinuity".

    Like in surgery where a reconnection cannot be done to the bowel immediately due to other life threatening issues, the patient is left in "discontinuity" where they are allowed to progress in their healing and at a later date, the possibility of reconnection may be back on the table if the patient is stable enough.
    www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

    Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "
  • Chinorlz
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2006
    • 6422

    #2
    The first project of Collateral Concepts: Discontinuity


    Horween Shell Cordovan Tri-Fold wallet with completely handmade silver chain.






















    Crafted from 100% USA made genuine Horween shell cordovan. All edges of each component of the wallet is beveled by hand and after sewing, wax applied and polished by hand with cloth at high speed so that the friction heats the wax and it takes on a lovely luster.

    Horween genuine shell cordovan is made in Chicago by the same family for over a century and takes 6 months from beginning to end. A beautiful material with incredible handfeel that will last a lifetime.

    Three pockets with two facing each other and the other being a vertical pocket and all with cutouts for easy access to all your cards and at the same time allows easy viewing of ID cards without removing them if not needed.

    The silver chain is completely made by hand. Each individual piece is cut with a hand saw, edges filed by hand and then bent by hand to gradually form a chain with forty pieces. The silver will tarnish beautifully with time.

    The number 40 is significant to the major religions and serves to give the chain a level of meaning in the same way the the Tibetan mala's bead count confers meaning.

    Two versions: One with the intended polished black shell cordovan face out and the other is with the paint splashed, Horween stamped reverse face of the cordovan plate.

    Dimensions:

    4" high, 3" wide. 9.5" fully opened.

    Chain is 20" long in total.
    Last edited by Chinorlz; 05-07-2012, 04:04 PM.
    www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

    Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

    Comment

    • Chinorlz
      Senior Member
      • Sep 2006
      • 6422

      #3
      Vintage elephant leather gloves with black raw silk lining




















      The evolution of the anatomic gloves from the second iteration, the gauntlet version extends the coverage down the forearm to provide more coverage and create a different look.

      The pattern continues to be a single piece design with a simple arcing seam running down the center palm and around the arm. The pattern has been adjusted to follow the natural wrist break as well so as with the original design, the gauntlet version does not lay flat as it is built around the human form.

      The leather is vintage elephant, from the same hide used since the very first Collateral collection. Purchased from the daughter of a conservationist/big game hunter who made this kill in Zimbabwe. The man's name was Eric Wagner and was written about in this book. When he passed away, his daughter found the hide among her father's belongings having been stored away for decades.

      The silk is from Laos and comes from a single village. They raise their own silkworms, hand reel the silk from the cocoons, weave it on traditional shuttle looms giving you the lovely slubs and then hand dye it. Beginning to end, it is from the same place. Beautiful depth of color and texture.

      This will be an edition of three pairs plus artist's proof. Made to order and with a document detailing the provenance of the materials and the number of the pair.
      Last edited by Chinorlz; 05-08-2012, 07:47 PM.
      www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

      Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

      Comment

      • cowsareforeating
        Senior Member
        • Jan 2011
        • 1032

        #4
        wow albert your work is something else. silk and elephant textures look so great together...

        Comment

        • Chinorlz
          Senior Member
          • Sep 2006
          • 6422

          #5
          Thank you my friend.

          It's a real luxury and an honor to be able to work with materials such as these. Since I am a one man line from beginning to end, I'm able to work with materials that are potentially cost impermissive to other designers and lines. It allows me to really explore and push the materials research and development and usage of hard to find/vintage fabrics and materials in my work.

          I am sad that because of my current schedule I will not be able to produce full collections but at the same time will allow me to delve deeper into each individual project and piece.

          I do have designs laid out with materials chosen for some long sleeve/short sleeve shirts, silkscreen materials for another project and lovely skins for a leather jacket. I will just have to work on these sequentially and present them here as they are completed :)
          www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

          Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

          Comment

          • Urbaninstitution
            Senior Member
            • Apr 2011
            • 133

            #6
            Amazing, as an absolute glove addict, Your designs really are one of a kind. With just the right amount of function, wearability and sheer badassness..

            Comment

            • kuugaia
              Senior Member
              • Feb 2010
              • 1007

              #7
              Sad to see this going on the back burner, but very happy to see it's still on the table. Really loving those gloves Albert, seriously they are awesome. A friend of mine has a pair (in deer I believe) and they were a really impressive, the above longer version even more so. Great silver chain as well.

              Keep us posted!

              Comment

              • Chinorlz
                Senior Member
                • Sep 2006
                • 6422

                #8
                Will do and thank you!

                I'm probably going to work on the leather jacket next. The exterior will be a smooth and clean high collar zip leather jacket but the lining will have some lovely seamwork to continue my ideas and designs where the details are for the wearer him/herself :)

                I've got the honor and pleasure of working with some new hides that are really incredible. Some horsehide and goatskin that has a dull luster to it with a custom green/black dye that will meld beautifully with almost any wardrobe.

                Going to take a while before I'll be able to present the completed project here but it'll happen!
                www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

                Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

                Comment

                • clay
                  Senior Member
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 284

                  #9
                  Yo Albert! Glad to you are still doing CC! Hope all is well and looking forward to seeing more! You know where to find me...Peace!

                  Comment

                  • Chinorlz
                    Senior Member
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 6422

                    #10
                    It's been a long time since I've made a public post about where I am taking Collateral in this coming year.

                    With my schedule becoming more "normal" as I take two years away from clinical duties to develop surgical instruments. It has allowed me to once again work on the 4th iteration of Collateral.

                    The designs have been done, the patternwork is in process with close to half of the pieces prototyped as well.

                    To start things off. This is the materials list for the collection:

                    Horween Horse
                    Horween Cowhide
                    Horween Shell Cordovan
                    Horween Bison
                    Italian Shearling
                    Asian Water Buffalo
                    Sterling Silver
                    American Horsehair
                    Japanese Tree Ash Dyed Cotton
                    English Reversible Linen/Wool
                    Vintage Boro (indigo dyed) Fabric
                    Japanese Wool/Hemp Tweed
                    Japanese Overtwist Organically Dyed Heavy Raw Silk & Cotton
                    Piano Key Ivory


                    I'm working hard to continue to choose and work with materials and fabrics that come from truly artisanal sources. Fabrics where the cotton or silk is grown/raised by the same village that spools the thread and weaves the fabric, leathers from American tanneries, fabrics originally pieced together by hand sometimes over 100 years ago, and those created or processed using techniques that are centuries old.

                    My concept of creating pieces that are intuitively anatomic and have lines of motion will continue with this collection as well.


                    Development photos, materials shots and more will be forthcoming!
                    www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

                    Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

                    Comment

                    • ironman
                      Senior Member
                      • Apr 2008
                      • 829

                      #11
                      don't even need to see any ideas, that list of materials is intriguing enough. especially looking forward to shearling and ivory

                      can't wait to see what you come up with!

                      Comment

                      • Raw
                        Senior Member
                        • Oct 2009
                        • 1106

                        #12
                        Great to hear A! Really looking forward to this.

                        Comment

                        • Chinorlz
                          Senior Member
                          • Sep 2006
                          • 6422

                          #13
                          www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

                          Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

                          Comment

                          • Chinorlz
                            Senior Member
                            • Sep 2006
                            • 6422

                            #14
                            A brief photo shoot today to start things off for the 4th iteration.


                            Fully Lined Horween horse leather jut neck jacket with lines of motion seaming and locking two way heavy Lampo zips. Lining is black Italian cotton.

                            Matching fully lined Horween horse leather anatomic gauntlet gloves



                            Things are starting.
                            www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

                            Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

                            Comment

                            • magic
                              Senior Member
                              • Feb 2009
                              • 1404

                              #15
                              damn A!
                              Focusing on object details

                              Comment

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