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J. Morgan Puett

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  • surver
    Senior Member
    • Oct 2007
    • 638

    J. Morgan Puett

    a most interesting individual... puts sooo many things we talk about here in perspective...

    [many thanks to nnnnnemo @ weibo for bringing her to my attention :)]

    www.jmorganpuett.com
    www.mildredslane.com

    Georgia native J. Morgan Puett emerged in the mid-1980s as a fashion designer. Her distinctive style, which drew from sources that explored the history of garments, were hand-made, crafted of hand-dyed natural fabrics, often in wrinkled, informal states. Her quirky SoHo retail space was heralded for its evocative environment–a bewildering combination of store, art installation, architectural remnant, and factory. Models rode a salvaged merry-go-round for fashion shows, the whirr of sewing machines provided a soundtrack, celebrities mingled with artists, and clothing shared shelf space with antique farm equipment. The Wooster Street space was abuzz with activities, including art exhibitions, poetry readings, concerts, tarot card readings, as well as memorable manicures provided by critic Rhonda Lieberman. It effectively served as an ad-hoc center for New York’s creative producers. This multifaceted studio-cum-store drew comparisons to Warhol’s Factory for its spontaneity. In retrospect, Puett anticipated the changed landscape of SoHo, with its entertainment-oriented retail and brand marquees such as Prada, Abercrombie and Fitch, and Apple.

    Puett closed her Wooster Street store in 1997, and archived all of its contents–from dresses and patterns to financial records and shipping receipts–most of which was preserved with natural beeswax. This Pompeian action was the subject of a 1998 exhibition at the Centre d’Art Contemporain Kunsthalle in Fribourg, Switzerland. In her installation at Alexander Gray Associates, Puett critically revisits this material at a timely moment, when the lines between the art world and luxury branding are collapsing.


    Since 2001, Puett has focused her artistic practice on large-scale collaborative projects that mine her interest in the role of fashion and garments on culture, both historical and contemporary, in efforts that honor labor and “missing links to history.” Recent projects have been commissioned by the Santa Barbara Contemporary Art Forum; the Abington Art Center, Philadelphia; Mass MoCA, North Adams, MA; Artex, Arnhern, Amsterdam; The Fabric Workshop Museum, Philadelphia; Wave Hill, Bronx, New York; the Serpentine Gallery, London; and the 2002 Spoletto Festival in Charleston, South Carolina. Puett received her BFA and MFA from the School of the Art Institute of Chicago.


    (from her website)














    Last edited by surver; 07-11-2012, 10:18 PM.
  • surver
    Senior Member
    • Oct 2007
    • 638

    #2
    .... clothing...


    Waxed Couture 1993


    Washed Silks 1993


    Depression 1984


    Emily Grandgene, for Exode To The Corporeal Conversation


    That Word Which Means Smuggling Across Borders, Incorporated

    Comment

    • surver
      Senior Member
      • Oct 2007
      • 638

      #3
      ... stores, interiors...













      Comment

      • surver
        Senior Member
        • Oct 2007
        • 638

        #4
        Artist Statement

        J. Morgan Puett. Born in Hahira, Georgia. Project artist; Site-sensitive. Recent recipient of The Anonymous Was A Woman Award and A Pew Charitable Trust Grant (PEI), and currently living and working between New York City and Beach Lake, Pa.

        My career and trajectory as an artist/cultural worker was shaped and determined very early. In 1984 I was attempting to research detailed aspects of working people's clothing from 1900-1930 in the costume archives of the Metropolitan Museum, and I was told that no specimens of these clothes survived. The actual reason for this was a shock to me – the clothes had been worn to dust, altered, patched, turned into quilts, chair backs, and curtains, passed down, and eventually used as rags. It was the fact that everything that was part of early vernacular culture was constantly being re-used, re-shaped, and re-worked – in a continuous act of invention that permanently shaped my practice. Categories shifted – clothing became furniture became architecture and vice versa – this changed my thinking about material culture and the inherent fluid nature of things. I realized that these histories and practices needed to not only be preserved and represented in museums but also activated in contemporary public life. At this moment I realized that I had to find a way to reconstruct historical practices and networks -- making products and systems that could activate all the categories of everyday life. Art alone, I found, is singularly lacking in the tools to do this. I strategically came to situate myself at the nexus of art, architecture and principally in the world of fashion.


        Fashion is a system that is used , negotiated, or imposed by every person on the planet — there is no more universal system of communication, experimentation, and social production than clothing. The recent history of fashion has affected our world — the industrial revolution, the global exploitation of labor, the expansion of capitalism and globalization — all of which have transformed our modes of dwelling, interaction and comportment in profoundly intimate manners. In my practice I situate fashion at the intersection of all of the debates embracing history, art, architecture, sociology, and economics, in a manner that allows me to respond to events in an immediate and democratic manner.


        It is through this debased, neglected, and assumed to be crass, medium of fashion that I have created an alternative territory. In doing so I began by refusing the false strategies of the illusions of the “not for profit” cultural sphere and opened a series of small clothing stores as critical projects (1985-2001). These became social spaces of collective investigation, experimentation, re-inscriptions of the history of labor, production, and social practices – an alternative form of
        gesamptkunstwerk situated directly in and for the world. Each project has investigated the past in order to re-evaluate the present from the perspective of a series of critical questions around labor, and identity – principally women’s labor and identity. When I launch into a project through textile, costume, and manufacturing , I attempt to re-invent these histories; thus, folding in the present with a consideration to the future. To invent the future one needs to develop new critical perspectives on the past – these must be constructed. I am not merely interested in recuperating hidden, lost, or misunderstood histories, but in the invention of what the future could look like.

        J. Morgan Puett

        Comment

        • Geoffrey B. Small
          Senior Member
          • Nov 2007
          • 618

          #5
          Dear Merz, In Los Angeles, in the 90's, the legendary Charles Gallay was one of the only people outside of NYC exclusively carrying the collection along with our own recycle collection which was being produced in Boston, Rick Owen's pre-Italy collection which he made himself in LA, Martin (pre-Diesel), Richard Tyler (also beautifully being made in LA at the time), Alaia (pre-Prada), and Comme (pre-collaborations x other 'universe' stuff). And when I say outside of NYC, I don't just mean the US either, it was a world-leading store and has never been replaced since Gallay retired. For the record, Gallay was the first to bring CDG, Yohji, Matsuda, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Armani, Martin Margiela, Rick Owens, myself, and many others into the US market taking risks and imposing a pure design vision that no other merchant since has dared to even come close to. J. Morgan Puett also got her share of press during her time in the game. So the line was definitely around- especially in LA, thanks to Charles. Like a lot of things, it's just a matter of knowing where to look. Hope this is of some help. Cheers, Geoffrey

          Comment

          • 333
            Senior Member
            • Apr 2012
            • 101

            #6
            Thanks Geoffrey. Very inspiring work.

            Comment

            • PoubelleMaBelle
              Senior Member
              • Feb 2012
              • 180

              #7
              fascinating... i can't get over the dyes / treatments. it's like paul harden on psilocybin.

              does she use actual archival rags/curtains, or just re-invent them?

              Comment

              • Peasant
                Senior Member
                • Jul 2009
                • 1507

                #8
                Could have sworn she was mentioned somewhere in the depths of this site before but now I can't find anything. Awesome work. There's plenty of imagery on line: CLICK.
                Mildred's Lane is still a very active place and site, not sure how current the "store front" Mildred's Complexity is but I believe it's still there. More of a non-profit art space / gallery.

                Comment

                • kian0538
                  Member
                  • Aug 2009
                  • 49

                  #9
                  I have seen the pictures on weibo, but I really enjoy looking at them over and over, her work is amazing, thank surver for all the details!
                  Last edited by kian0538; 07-12-2012, 11:03 PM.
                  You see all my light And you love my dark

                  Comment

                  • zamb
                    Senior Member
                    • Nov 2006
                    • 5834

                    #10
                    Old times article on her from 2008
                    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                    .................................................. .......................


                    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                    Comment

                    • zamb
                      Senior Member
                      • Nov 2006
                      • 5834

                      #11
                      interesting menswear for merz
                      “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                      .................................................. .......................


                      Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                      Comment

                      • MikeN
                        Senior Member
                        • Nov 2007
                        • 2205

                        #12
                        Talk about creating your own universe... her house in incredible. Especially the leather rugs.

                        Comment

                        • Anomie
                          Member
                          • Jan 2011
                          • 73

                          #13
                          I discovered Morgan because of this thread.

                          She is doing really interesting things at Mildred's Lane:

                          MILDRED’S LANE is a rustic, 96-acre site deep in the woods of rural northeastern Pennsylvania, It is a home and an experiment in living.


                          She also knows Paul Harnden from back in the day.

                          For any of you in the NYC area I highly recommend going to one of her Saturday socials at Mildreds Lane. She also has a gallery and shop in Narrowsburg with a few of her archival pieces in the shop.

                          I think she might be contemplating doing something in the fashion world again on a very small scale.
                          Last edited by Anomie; 06-01-2014, 01:35 PM.

                          Comment

                          • Faust
                            kitsch killer
                            • Sep 2006
                            • 37849

                            #14
                            Looks über hipster.
                            Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                            StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                            Comment

                            • Anomie
                              Member
                              • Jan 2011
                              • 73

                              #15
                              Originally posted by Faust View Post
                              Looks über hipster.
                              The term going around that area for Brooklyn Hipsters who move out of the city is Hickster.

                              The two events I intended were not too hipsterish and I really enjoyed the lectures.

                              Comment

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