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  • tweeds
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2006
    • 246

    Suits for the layman

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    Last edited by tweeds; 05-14-2010, 09:31 PM.
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  • rach2jlc
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2006
    • 265

    #2
    Re: Suits for the layman



    Wow! There are whole books written on answering the questions you ask, so there is no way really to give a full or even cursory response here.Though, technically, it is "only" ajacket and a pair of pants,it nevertheless isunbelievably complicated in order to do it right or even to explain what goes into making it look like what it does (there are THOUSANDS of stitches in there). Hence why agorgeous suit can cost as much as aused car.



    My suggestion istake the tailor a picture of the suit you like.A reputable tailor will look at a suit in a picture and know what goes into making it look like that.



    But,as forthe terms you listed, I would do an internet search on them and you'll get good definitions that will also have pictures. Without pics, it is hard to explain "waist suppression" or "canvassing" or "fusing" etc.and takes up LOTS of space trying to give verbal descriptions.



    Finally, I think that www.askandyaboutclothes.com or styleforum (which you mentioned earlier) will probably be much more helpful with this topic. They also have HUGE archives and literally thousands upon thousands of threads about suits. Around here, we're generally more interested in innovative designs or suits with a little "flare," things that many of the more conservative ask andy or styleforum members would probably cast a Borelli-like sneer at. So, while I love what Junya is doing with the shrunken-styled suits, if you are just getting started in the suit world, I wouldn't suggest that kind of style. You probably want to go with something a little more standard and classic and work your way outwards from there (start with Charcoal and end up with bright red, haha).

    Comment

    • sbw4224
      Senior Member
      • Sep 2006
      • 571

      #3
      Re: Suits for the layman



      Check out the most recent post on Mouko's blog. He outlines what makes a suit well-made, and it's a quick and easy read.





      http://www.peter-gray.com/

      Comment

      • rach2jlc
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2006
        • 265

        #4
        Re: Suits for the layman



        That siteis a fairly good guide for some quick and easyindicators. But, again, the problem with brevity is that it is also a little misleading. For example, he talks about pleats, lining in the pants, and a rubberized strip in the pants to prevent shirts from sliding as being key indicators for quality.These are more matters ofopinion than anything else;many these dayslike flat-front pants, lighter weight wools (tropical weight) often don't have lining for breathability, and that rubberized strip inthe pants to prevent shirts from slippingcan be uncomfortable and annoying. And, of all my suits,I have only one that has that strip, and it is the lowest quality suit I own.



        But, the description of canvassing, fusing, hand-stitching, etc. was pretty good. But, even then, fusing has come A LONG way from where it used to be. And, to be honest, most people don't want to spend the $1500 plus that it generally will run to get into a fully canvassed suit. Unless you wear a suit every single day, you can get by with fusing and it will be fine.



        Also, there is a book by Alan Flusser called "Dressing the Man" that's pretty famous and has lots of info and pictures. But, at the end of the day, one simply has to wear different kinds of suits or go to a store with lots of different suit brands to see what one likes.



        Comment

        • tweeds
          Senior Member
          • Sep 2006
          • 246

          #5
          Re: Suits for the layman

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          Last edited by tweeds; 05-14-2010, 09:31 PM.
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          Comment

          • Faust
            kitsch killer
            • Sep 2006
            • 37852

            #6
            Re: Suits for the layman

            After looking at Mouko's blog entry, I agree with John. Some elements don't have much to do with the quality of the suit, but with a design. Things like a ticket pocket and a watch pocket no longer tell a quality suit apart.
            Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

            StyleZeitgeist Magazine

            Comment

            • clay
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2006
              • 284

              #7
              Re: Suits for the layman



              On GQ.com they have a feature forthe best 10suits under 500 dollars. Interesting, but it does not go into quality. Personally I say save the pleats for another couple of years.



              No matter what suit you get, have your tailor fit it to your body once you buy it. It'll cost an extra $50 but it is so worth it. Be careful though if going with quirky designers though cause sometimes these tailors just dont get it and will impose their primitive thinking and may just screw up the suit.

              Comment

              • Faust
                kitsch killer
                • Sep 2006
                • 37852

                #8
                Re: Suits for the layman

                [quote user="clay"]

                On GQ.com they have a feature forthe best 10suits under 500 dollars. Interesting, but it does not go into quality. Personally I say save the pleats for another couple of years.



                No matter what suit you get, have your tailor fit it to your body once you buy it. It'll cost an extra $50 but it is so worth it. Be careful though if going with quirky designers though cause sometimes these tailors just dont get it and will impose their primitive thinking and may just screw up the suit.



                [/quote]



                Hey, Clay! Pleasure to see you here.

                Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                Comment

                • clay
                  Senior Member
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 284

                  #9
                  Re: Suits for the layman



                  Hi Faust!,





                  Sorry I'm just getting back to you. I love the site and visit as often as I can. Great stuff man!!!![:D]

                  Comment

                  • Faust
                    kitsch killer
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 37852

                    #10
                    Re: Suits for the layman

                    [quote user="clay"]

                    Hi Faust!,





                    Sorry I'm just getting back to you. I love the site and visit as often as I can. Great stuff man!!!![:D]



                    [/quote]



                    Cheers! [Y]

                    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                    Comment

                    • doo888
                      Junior Member
                      • Oct 2006
                      • 1

                      #11
                      Re: Suits for the layman

                      This website: http://www.englishcut.com/belongs to a Savile Row tailor and is extremely informative in what makes a good suit!

                      Comment

                      • Faust
                        kitsch killer
                        • Sep 2006
                        • 37852

                        #12
                        Re: Suits for the layman



                        [quote user="doo888"]This website: http://www.englishcut.com/belongs to a Savile Row tailor and is extremely informative in what makes a good suit![/quote]



                        Hey, Winston! It's great to see you here! I smell a "YSL/early Dior Homme" thread coming on...

                        Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                        StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                        Comment

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