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Undercover SS07 Womens - Paris

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  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37852

    Undercover SS07 Womens - Paris



    Humm, not sure what to think about it, really. It's much lighter than the previous collections, and having lost the edgy theme, now I am kind of adamant about calling this a "collection" (as in a show that has some cohesiveness) altogether. Some outfits are pretty cool though. I like the shoes, too - very Helmut Lang. Here are some looks - the rest is on style.com




    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine
  • djrajio
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2006
    • 143

    #2
    Re: Undercover SS07 Womens - Paris

    Wow. I would have never guessed this is Undercover if no one told me but after looking through the style.com pictures, its still very undercover and gothic in tone. Personally, I think Undercover needs this in order to build some legitimacy within the fashion world. Too much criticism greeted his last collection as a gimmick and the hard undertones needed some breathability. This is an astonding collection IMO. If Undercover and N(N) continue to expand and draw from the broader brush they have been using, I think Tokyo gen-x/y fashion labels will finally start to be regarded as influencial by the global fashion community...

    Comment

    • sbw4224
      Senior Member
      • Sep 2006
      • 571

      #3
      Re: Undercover SS07 Womens - Paris

      I think a lot of this collection is very wearable and definitely more
      mainstream. I don't know how well Undercover does for women, but
      if it's a slight attempt to go a bit more mainstream to boost sales, I
      think it was done decently. A lot of the outfits still maintain a
      bit of Jun's touches, with the gloves being the first thing that comes
      to mind.

      Comment

      • sbw4224
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2006
        • 571

        #4
        Re: Undercover SS07 Womens - Paris



        [quote user="djrajio"]Wow. I would have never guessed this is
        Undercover if no one told me but after looking through the style.com
        pictures, its still very undercover and gothic in tone. Personally, I
        think Undercover needs this in order to build some legitimacy within
        the fashion world. Too much criticism greeted his last collection as a
        gimmick and the hard undertones needed some breathability. This is an
        astonding collection IMO. If Undercover and N(N) continue to expand and
        draw from the broader brush they have been using, I think Tokyo gen-x/y
        fashion labels will finally start to be regarded as influencial by the
        global fashion community...[/quote]





        You wrote what I was thinking, but I just couldn't word it correctly. I agree completely.

        Comment

        • darkanimal
          Senior Member
          • Sep 2006
          • 212

          #5
          Re: Undercover SS07 Womens - Paris

          I am expecting then that the Men's collection counterpart will be toned down, I dearly miss seing boots. Something about 2007 tells me that I won't be buying anything, with N(N), Cloak and some others dissapointing me. Perhaps a chance for me to discover indie labels that have been lurking somewhere or a chance to finally save money. [:D]

          Comment

          • Agent L
            Senior Member
            • Sep 2006
            • 122

            #6
            Re: Undercover SS07 Womens - Paris

            Too much of a departure too quickly for me. Idenities been lost. At least to my eyes. Jun's a crazy minded designer, seems he's on Zoloft now. I pray his men's collecton stays true to his signature style.

            Comment

            • laika
              moderator
              • Sep 2006
              • 3787

              #7
              Re: Undercover SS07 Womens - Paris



              This is interesting.




              Published: October 3, 2006














              PARIS, Oct. 2 — Since the spring collections began,
              nearly a month ago, designers have been making reference to the clothes
              that Olivier Theyskens did for Rochas — the couture sacks, flounced
              jackets and other Parisian gestures. Some of these references feel
              halfhearted, a case of playing catch-up now that Mr. Theyskens has
              moved to another old house, Nina Ricci. But feeble or not, they
              represent an uncritical acceptance of his methods.

              On Monday, though, at the start of the French collections, someone
              finally called the fashion world’s bluff. Jun Takahashi, the nimble
              mind behind the Japanese label Undercover, sent out a spoof of the
              practice of reviving old couture looks, as well as old houses. And
              Rochas wasn’t the only refurbished brand in Mr. Takahashi’s sights.
              There were also Lanvin, Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent.



              The
              clothes were so beautifully done that it took a moment to grasp that
              Mr. Takahashi was commenting on the ability of editors to look at
              nonsensical shapes and fall in a faint over them. Perhaps it was a
              sheer black dress with a hem swinging like your grandmother’s lampshade
              that set off the grins. But from then on you couldn’t look at a
              flounced jacket or a dress hem strung with gold chains (a nod to
              Chanel’s chain-weighted jackets) without feeling slightly ashamed that
              you had participated in this folly of reviving old bones.



              Mr.
              Takahashi displayed magisterial wit as the models stepped onto
              pedestals and paused. There were sheer silk tunics with matching
              underpants and black over-the-knee stockings, and loose smock dresses
              with ruffles and pearls (shades of Lanvin). Nearly all the clothes were
              sophisticated and wearable, which saved the collection from being a
              rant.



              But the finale was a definite touché: dresses and jackets
              made from fluttery cutouts of bones, and a purple satin cape made from
              a virtual boneyard of tiny three-dimensional skulls with evil
              rhinestone eyes.



              ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

              Comment

              • Faust
                kitsch killer
                • Sep 2006
                • 37852

                #8
                Re: Undercover SS07 Womens - Paris

                /\ Holy crap, is that what it was in the end?! You couldn't tell from the pictures. Hmm, if she is right, this becomes a more interesting show. Sounds a bit contrived though...
                Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                Comment

                • laika
                  moderator
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 3787

                  #9
                  Re: Undercover SS07 Womens - Paris



                  You can see a little bit in the close-ups. I agree it's rather contrived, but clever, and exquisitely done. I wish Cathy Horyn weren't so bloody smug about everything.



                  from Getty.




                  ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

                  Comment

                  • mass
                    Senior Member
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 1131

                    #10
                    Re: Undercover SS07 Womens - Paris

                    i actually really liked this collection a lot (and i loved the a/w collection, which everyone hated). i agree it may be too different too soon but i think there are a few pieces that are still very much 'undercover'. & i agree with what djrajio has said.

                    Comment

                    • xcoldricex
                      Senior Member
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 1347

                      #11
                      Re: Undercover SS07 Womens - Paris

                      that cape is insane! everything else is pretty boring.

                      Comment

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