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  • Johnny
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2006
    • 1923

    What's to be worn? - Menswear



    Thanks for your input guys. I've tried on the shirt with the wires, but never seen the sweater. It sounds very nice actually.



    I'm running out of clothes thatI actually like these days, so turing to CCP for some inspiration. Can't be doin with CDG any more for some reason, and it's left me a little lost. Also not really feeling MAltieri or Harnden, just bored with it all I spose. My fav recent purchase has been the green CCP shoes, so that's got me interested in the boy.

  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37852

    #2
    Re: Your recent purchases

    [quote user="Faust"][quote user="Johnny"]

    Thanks for your input guys. I've tried on the shirt with the wires, but never seen the sweater. It sounds very nice actually.



    I'm running out of clothes thatI actually like these days, so turing to CCP for some inspiration. Can't be doin with CDG any more for some reason, and it's left me a little lost. Also not really feeling MAltieri or Harnden, just bored with it all I spose. My fav recent purchase has been the green CCP shoes, so that's got me interested in the boy.



    [/quote]



    I think Ann is starting to make less edgier clothes, which make it better fitting in your wardrobe (I think you mentioned that you liked a few pieces). Yea, there is not that much stuff these days, I agree. I am also a little bit at the crossroads as Ann is beginning to shift away from edgier stuff (my loss, your gain!). I don't feel Underocover and N(N) (too young), Dior Homme is dead, Cloak has never made it in my book, except that FW04, and CCP and CDiem are mostly out of my price range.



    What about Margiela? I feel like he is having a second rebirth. There was a lot of interesting stuff in the Margiela boutique in London, much better stuff than dept stores buy from him.



    Someone in the US needs to bring Ato back - it's scandalous that there isn't a single US stocklist.

    [/quote]
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

    Comment

    • Johnny
      Senior Member
      • Sep 2006
      • 1923

      #3
      Re: Your recent purchases

      Faust I forgot about Margiela, I totally agree about MMM having a bit of a rebirth. I think conceptually it's spot on - it's a sort of mini collectino of good stylish clohtes for men. I think they are not at all interested in making men look daft or too peacock-y. I quite like the idea of just wearing decent well made clothes that are not overly precious. CCP can be a bit precious.....Ann is good too but still TOO edgy for me. Too gothic too...

      Comment

      • dontbecruel
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2006
        • 494

        #4
        Re: Your recent purchases

        I don't know if this needs a new thread, but anyway I wanted to join in the discussion about which mens' designers are currently producing interesting work. I'm not a leather-lover, so I can't comment on CCP/Carpe etc and the kind of stuff they stock at Library doesn't really interest me (precious is a good description, Johnny). I like Ann D, but she is too in thrall to iconic rock chic to interest me as a pure designer. The outstandingly original genius in mens' and womens' design (as far as I'm concerned) is Yohji, but maybe we can talk about him another time.
        Instead, I wanted to concur with Faust on Margiela. I didn't used to see what made the clothes worth the money and the "secret" white stitching that shows people from the outside that you are wearing MM always seemed a bit Stone Island to me, but then... I was converted. The thing about Margiela is he does produce new twists and interesting details from season to season, but the core of his clothes is the basic cut, which has a character all of its own. The way the trousers turn around the leg and bow out slightly round the knee; the beautifully hanging shoulders on his dress shirts. Menswear is essentially conservative but within those confines you can spot an MM silhouette a mile off. There is a profundity in that.
        The other designer who bears comparison is obviously Raf. Today I tried on a fine black wool overcoat of his at DSM and it was heaven. At first you thinkwhat makes it such a great coat is the design twist: in place of a collar and lapel it has a scarf/shawl in the same very fine traditional coat fabric as the rest. It wraps around your neck and you feel like a god. But actually what made it look so great on was the subtlety of the tailoring. Somehow I (5'10" and a barrel-chested 170 pounds) had the same silhouette as one of Raf's lanky teenager on the runway. His clothes recreate your body. And his current collection is a thing of beauty, isn't it?

        Comment

        • nqth
          Senior Member
          • Sep 2006
          • 350

          #5
          Re: Your recent purchases



          I thinkthat for the CCP, CDiem ... clothes one has to have a very strong personality to wear them comfortably. They are too dark to me. I saw the great leather jkt in Paris with metal wires inside the arms so that you can change their shape. Itlooks so special:-) and it it not kind of jkt you want to wear daysafter days. But there are thenew clothes blk/grey in washed fabricand can be worn both side thatare great. Very simple, very low key, very monochromatic, with raw edge, kind of fited MMM but without the quirkyness.



          Comment

          • laika
            moderator
            • Sep 2006
            • 3787

            #6
            Re: Your recent purchases



            great post, dontbecruel!



            I don't know how much I could participate, but I think a thread on this issue--lack of interesting clothes for men--would be great. My boyfriend has been harping about this since i met him.



            Also interesting is the assertion by some male designers that men shouldn't wear "too many designer clothes." It's one thing hearing it from MJ, but I believe Chalayan has said something similar as well. Would be very curious to hear people's interpretations of this sentiment...



            ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

            Comment

            • dontbecruel
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2006
              • 494

              #7
              Re: Your recent purchases



              Thanks Laika, you're my new best friend.
              Wasn't the Chalayan quote about how he can't imagine the men who wear designer clothes or something like that? Anyway, that would explain why he makes the mens' clothes he does.

              Comment

              • Johnny
                Senior Member
                • Sep 2006
                • 1923

                #8
                Re: What's to be worn? - Menswear



                This is turning into an interesting discussion - the lack of clothes for men thing is my bugbear at the moment! And don't get me startedon taht twat Jacobs' comments about men not wearing designer clothes. The whole concept of "designer" clothes is so dumb and outdated anyway.





                Faust - can you move these posts into a new thread?

                Comment

                • Faust
                  kitsch killer
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 37852

                  #9
                  Re: What's to be worn? - Menswear

                  [quote user="Johnny"]

                  This is turning into an interesting discussion - the lack of clothes for men thing is my bugbear at the moment! And don't get me startedon taht twat Jacobs' comments about men not wearing designer clothes. The whole concept of "designer" clothes is so dumb and outdated anyway.



                  Faust - can you move these posts into a new thread?



                  [/quote]



                  Done. Great discussion. I paraphrased my man Chernishevskiy for the thread title, hope you don't mind. Laika, if you want, we can make one for womenswear, too - although I don't think the womenswear is in a dire state!



                  So, what's to be worn? I don't know. I am also a little puzzled these days. It's a complicated mix of having the access to the right clothes, changing/evolving tastes, maturing, changing social situation, changing trends, and changing designers - a handful of changes, but I think they are all in that mix.



                  So, here is how it goes for me more or less;



                  Helmut Lang is gone



                  Ann Demeulemeester - still love her to death, but her clothes are becoming less edgier, simpler, and the prices are going up - actually, as far as I remember I haven't bought an Ann piece since she went with the standalone menswear show, hmmm.



                  CDiem - too expensive, although would love to own it all. I still buy it if I can get a good price.



                  Poell - same as CDiem, and his blazers/jackets are basically cut not for me.



                  Dior Homme - dead.



                  Cloak - never lived up to the FW04, quality problems, drastic price increases, horrible last show = dead.



                  Raf Simons - stores, take goddamn note, Raf has grown out of the teenage moodswings, so please stop buying like he hasn't, and then I'll buy from you. His tailoring is still unrivaled in my book.



                  Les Hommes - heading straight for the garbage can, since moving to Milan.



                  Number Nine and Undercover - too juvenile for my taste.



                  CDG - never got into it - I love the knits, but I don't really wear blazers or suits, which is its strength.



                  Junya Watanabe - major misses in the last few collections - I always pay attention to him, just because it's impossible to discount his talent, but at this point he's guilty until proved otherwise.



                  Margiela - having a rebirth. I am also growing up and need stuff that looks quirky but wearable to the office.



                  So, yea - I don't know what's next for me. I really hope Ann continues strong. I hope Raf continues in the same vein of the last two shows, grown up, but still progressive. I hope Margiela continues with the quirkinness. And I hope I make a ton of dough so I can buy CDiem and Poell :-)

                  Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                  StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                  Comment

                  • xcoldricex
                    Senior Member
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 1347

                    #10
                    Re: What's to be worn? - Menswear

                    what happened to raf's quality control? i bought a piece from his current season and his zippers are atrocious! not even ykk quality. fabric isn't anything special either. granted it is a cotton hoodie, but it's from the raf simons line and not the raf by raf line, so i expected something better. i'm am really disappointed....

                    Comment

                    • dontbecruel
                      Senior Member
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 494

                      #11
                      Re: What's to be worn? - Menswear

                      That sounds like a shame. I'm seriously considering a £1000 Raf overcoat (at least if it's still there at sale time) but I'm really only interested in something that will last forever.

                      Comment

                      • Fuuma
                        Senior Member
                        • Sep 2006
                        • 4050

                        #12
                        Re: What's to be worn? - Menswear



                        [quote user="xcoldricex"]what happened to raf's quality control? i bought a piece from his current season and his zippers are atrocious! not even ykk quality. fabric isn't anything special either. granted it is a cotton hoodie, but it's from the raf simons line and not the raf by raf line, so i expected something better. i'm am really disappointed....
                        [/quote]





                        If you can find somebody competent enough to make the switch and have access to good zippers i'd pay to change them if I were you. As I already told you before this was such a major issue for me in that case I passed on this particular hoodie even though I appreciate the innovative design very much

                        Selling CCP, Harnden, Raf, Rick etc.
                        http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums...me-other-stuff

                        Comment

                        • xcoldricex
                          Senior Member
                          • Sep 2006
                          • 1347

                          #13
                          Re: What's to be worn? - Menswear



                          yeah you told me a day too late. i'm probably returning it though. you happen to know a source for riri zips? i'd like to replace zips on a few things actually. i need to teach myself to do it so i don't have to pay people to do it, i used to be good with a sewing machine when i was a kid haha. you can pm me so we can keep the thread on track.

                          Comment

                          • Faust
                            kitsch killer
                            • Sep 2006
                            • 37852

                            #14
                            Re: What's to be worn? - Menswear



                            [quote user="xcoldricex"]what happened to raf's quality control?
                            [/quote]



                            Hype happens.



                            Funny you say this, because looking at a Raf tag from the current season I noticed a name of an Italian company as the producer. Where is your hoodie made? Everything used to be made in Belgium. Next time I go, I will specifically look at the fabric tags.

                            Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                            StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                            Comment

                            • laika
                              moderator
                              • Sep 2006
                              • 3787

                              #15
                              Re: What's to be worn? - Menswear

                              [quote user="Johnny"]

                              This is turning into an interesting discussion - the lack of clothes for men thing is my bugbear at the moment! And don't get me startedon taht twat Jacobs' comments about men not wearing designer clothes. The whole concept of "designer" clothes is so dumb and outdated anyway.





                              Faust - can you move these posts into a new thread?



                              [/quote]



                              Johnny, I am thoroughly looking forward to your thoughts--nothing i like more than ragging on MJ!



                              I'm going to try to find the Chalayan thing...not sure where I read it.



                              The turn to Margiela is very interesting, I think. As I get older (ooooh, approaching 30 in a few years), I am consistently more drawn to clothes that are smart (in the intelligent, rather than "neat" sense). Perfect tailoring is increasingly hard to come by, since so many garments are disguised in sheer style. Perfect and creative tailoring is even more rare.



                              I'll post some more thoughts tomorrow--sleepy now.



                              And Faust, a women's thread would be nice (although I may be the only one who is in dire straits, lol). Perhaps we can start one once we have more active female posters.

                              ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

                              Comment

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