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Label Under Construction (Luca Laurini)

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  • xcoldricex
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2006
    • 1347

    Label Under Construction (Luca Laurini)

    To
    study new forms, new conceptions and perceptions of matter to shape
    knitwear as if it were clay, that’s what characterises the creative
    career of Luca Laurini, the ‘deus ex machina’ of Label Under
    Construction. A project aimed at setting aside the trends of
    conventional fashion to create products whose origins and success are
    to be grounded on ancient manufacturing traditions.



    Their creations take their cue from a passion for and the rigour of
    architecture whose distinctive feature is detail planning with a desire
    to study in depth and show every single particular so that it becomes
    the primary distinctive mark of the whole item.




    Articles
    that easily enter and suit society, devised for people who conceive
    dressing according to the primitive idea of decorating the body and
    strive after harmony through introspection.





    A collection definitely
    aimed at formal simplicity, at geometry and its correlated mathematical
    ratios, which has found its distinctive mark in knitwear. A stylistic
    development whose pace is never imposed by the frantic rhythm of
    fashion but by the urge to actualise ideas loaded with small details
    drawn from the simple world of everyday life.




    Just
    as any other thing consisting of size, ratios, forms and spaces, also
    knitwear is considered in terms of its bidimensional (2D) or
    tridimensional (3D) components: therefore, not a simple line on paper,
    but a territory rich in experiment and research that allows the
    creation of new ‘identities’ to wear.




    Like in a black and white film the chromatic features of the items
    are oriented to shades that allow to interpret and live colour as pure
    concept and, by doing so, circumscribe its meaning.




    Label Under
    Construction is an ever-changing reality as is well expressed by its
    accurate look reminiscent of the building yard world: water pipes,
    pallets, sumps and tie-rods make up the perfect background for the
    items on display.













    beautiful knits. gotta drop some weight to be able to wear them though!













  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37852

    #2
    Re: Label Under Construction



    For those of you guys who are not familiar with the brand - Luca Laurini was part of Carpe Diem responsible for their knits. His knits are really beautiful - very high quality material, hand-knit (or so it says), produced in very small numbers in a factory in Tuscany. Atelier in NYC will start carrying the line next season.



    I tried translating this page in Italian through google - but it has quickly become academic gibberish, which I had trouble editing. If anyone speaks Italian, it'd be nice to get a real translation.



    http://www.mugmagazine.com/data/ita/...struction.html



    Some pictures of the process - looks romantic, but hard to see anything.




    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

    Comment

    • Faust
      kitsch killer
      • Sep 2006
      • 37852

      #3
      Re: Label Under Construction

      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

      Comment

      • Faust
        kitsch killer
        • Sep 2006
        • 37852

        #4
        Re: Label Under Construction





        Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

        StyleZeitgeist Magazine

        Comment

        • xcoldricex
          Senior Member
          • Sep 2006
          • 1347

          #5
          Re: Label Under Construction



          LUC on hangers? yuck. it's not supposed to be presented that way!



          i added that mugmagazine article in english to the first post.

          Comment

          • xcoldricex
            Senior Member
            • Sep 2006
            • 1347

            #6
            Re: Label Under Construction










            Comment

            • Faust
              kitsch killer
              • Sep 2006
              • 37852

              #7
              Re: Label Under Construction

              those argyle cut out sweaters look fresh!
              Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

              StyleZeitgeist Magazine

              Comment

              • xcoldricex
                Senior Member
                • Sep 2006
                • 1347

                #8
                Re: Label Under Construction





                JC Report:



                Luca Laurini, however, eschews leather and accessories all together,
                instead grounding his Label Under Construction line, which has been
                around for three years and is the best-known of the four labels run by
                former Carpe Diem members, purely in clothing. As the name suggests,
                Laurini's s/s '07 collection comprised pieces which seem unfinished,
                but are unmistakably crafted by a highly skilled tailor with a flair
                for urban minimalism. A soft white T-shirt sports an uneven hem, a
                black long-sleeve has seams down the spine and the backs of the arms
                that look like they were cut with pinking shears, and tapered
                low-crotch pants, which are ruched at the ankle, slightly reveal white
                fabric and a button-fly. Not one to forget his design DNA, Laurini also
                tips his hat to Carpe Diem, with a long-sleeve shirt covered in a faint
                blue-and-white print that resembles muscle fibers, with curved seams
                reinforcing the anatomical inspiration.









                looks like he's doing a lot more experimenting this season! - if someone's interested in the above linen pants, i'm going to sell a pair shortly.

                Comment

                • xcoldricex
                  Senior Member
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 1347

                  #9
                  Re: Label Under Construction

                  Comment

                  • xcoldricex
                    Senior Member
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 1347

                    #10
                    Re: Label Under Construction





                    man looks like there's a lot of interesting pieces this season...

                    Comment

                    • Faust
                      kitsch killer
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 37852

                      #11
                      Re: Label Under Construction



                      LUC showroom. Nice presentation!





                      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                      Comment

                      • khiev
                        Senior Member
                        • Nov 2006
                        • 239

                        #12
                        Re: Label Under Construction

                        Those knits just left me in awe. From what season are they from, and when exactly will A. carry new items for next season? I'll be dropping by NY in early Jan and I certainly don't want to drop all my dough on soon to be discounted items.

                        Comment

                        • Faust
                          kitsch killer
                          • Sep 2006
                          • 37852

                          #13
                          Re: Label Under Construction



                          [quote user="khiev"]Those knits just left me in awe. From what season are they from, and when exactly will A. carry new items for next season? I'll be dropping by NY in early Jan and I certainly don't want to drop all my dough on soon to be discounted items.
                          [/quote]



                          The red one is from the upcoming season. Many are from the current season (not that it helps us - noone carries LUC anyway). You never know when A gets these - these niche labes are not exactly most diligent when it comes to shipments. I'll let you know once I get an email from A

                          Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                          StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                          Comment

                          • Faust
                            kitsch killer
                            • Sep 2006
                            • 37852

                            #14
                            Re: Label Under Construction



                            more pix of the same, but from different angle. The punctured argyle looks damn nice.



                            Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                            StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                            Comment

                            • Faust
                              kitsch killer
                              • Sep 2006
                              • 37852

                              #15
                              Re: Label Under Construction



                              2D sleeve



                              Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                              StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                              Comment

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