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Rick Owens or Martin Margiela?

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  • Tafkap
    Senior Member
    • Oct 2006
    • 106

    Rick Owens or Martin Margiela?

    I love MANY designers but these two have to be my favorite. While maybe not "the best", it's who I like. For years I have not been able to decide who I like better. I can be pretty anal so I really need to understand why I love them....I like the romantic, vionette, etc. look that owens gives. But I also like the flat, artsy, etc. vibe that margiela gives. Who's your favorite of the two? Do you like the amazing drape that owens has or the whatever you call what margiela does type of thing?
  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37852

    #2
    Re: Rick Owens or Martin Margiela?

    Well, it's kind of like comparing apples and oranges, really. I love them both but precisely because they are so different and fill the different needs of my personal style. I obviously have more reverence for Margiela, because without him there would be a huge void on fashion history. He is an icon who has created a new direction in deconstruction, new philosophy in reworking the garments, and just a ton of new things that just wouldn't be there. Rick Owens is less talented, but I love his style. If I did not love Rick's style, I probably wouldn't give him another look, because besides his draping techniques, I can't say that he has created something new.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

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    • dontbecruel
      Senior Member
      • Sep 2006
      • 494

      #3
      Re: Rick Owens or Martin Margiela?



      Margiela is in a different category altogether for me. I love the fact that the two sides of his work you two described, the "deconstruction" and the "blank" functional clothing, are unified by the irrepressible talent for novel, flattering tailoring.



      I can't see it with Rick, I'm afraid. Looks like the work of a slightly pretentious
      theatrical costume designer, doing a Mad Max-influenced production of Shakespeare.

      Comment

      • Tafkap
        Senior Member
        • Oct 2006
        • 106

        #4
        Re: Rick Owens or Martin Margiela?

        My main problem with Margiela is almost all of the items I own by him have broken, either a seam or a button or two. I have never had anything like that happen that I can remember except Margiela. Maybe they were lemons, but still. 450 for a pair of pants and two seams broke by the pockets and ALL the buttons fell off. Within about 5 wears. I like Rick because there are alot of people who deal with drapes and he sames to have mastered "the art of draping" and espescially making the clothes seem like they came from some ancient legendary designer. Also, I love drapes, and Margiela doesnt really use them that much. His clothes are kind of plain. His last collections were pretty weak, while the last two Rick has done have been my favorites.

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        • Faust
          kitsch killer
          • Sep 2006
          • 37852

          #5
          Re: Rick Owens or Martin Margiela?



          [quote user="Tafkap"]My main problem with Margiela is almost all of the items I own by him have broken, either a seam or a button or two. I have never had anything like that happen that I can remember except Margiela. Maybe they were lemons, but still. 450 for a pair of pants and two seams broke by the pockets and ALL the buttons fell off. Within about 5 wears. I like Rick because there are alot of people who deal with drapes and he sames to have mastered "the art of draping" and espescially making the clothes seem like they came from some ancient legendary designer. Also, I love drapes, and Margiela doesnt really use them that much. His clothes are kind of plain. His last collections were pretty weak, while the last two Rick has done have been my favorites.[/quote]



          This is really interesting, because I thought exactly the same way about Margiela, that at some point it all just became a bunch of basics that did not warrant the price. However in the past couple of seasons he has had a rebirth in my book. There are more interesting fabrics and more interesting quirks. And that's what Margiela is, the master of the quirky. I think he basically matured and decided that he will do classic stuff for men with certain twists. Besides, he has explicitely said that in his view mens wardrobe should not change much, hence a lot of same pieces in different collections. I used to think he was just taking an easy way out, but now I am not sure that's the case. Maybe he really meant what he said. His womenswear on the other hand is really good, and sometimes is downright genius.



          But, yeah, I love Rick. Love the draping, LOVE the heavenly fabrics he uses, love his leathers, love the earthly colors. I should post my RO leather jacket for you - it's my most priced possession :-)

          Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

          StyleZeitgeist Magazine

          Comment

          • Tafkap
            Senior Member
            • Oct 2006
            • 106

            #6
            Re: Rick Owens or Martin Margiela?

            yes please do....i LOVE LOVE LOVE margiela. He is Huge in my book. But I think one of the reasons why I love him is more the way he presents his collections and also those tabi boots! In the Street book it goes through all of his collections how he presented them in detail, even saying, "Models wore a strong amount of patchoulli oil." Things like that really get me, he is very artistic. But Rick's work is really just the clothes, and it stands so strong with just how incredible they look. And the first time I saw alot of them in person, at Maxfield in L.A., I was like, Holy crap! This is Amazing! His fabrics are better than martins and that short skirt from a few seasons back with the draped leather in the front just kills me! I know someone who went to school with Rick and she said he was amazing back then. Everyone knew he was going to be big.Once I get a scanner again, (I moved and sold some stuff) I will scan some Rick pics that I have. A friend (who is friends with the friend who went to school with Rick)collects old Rick stuff and has pics and lookbooks that you will never see anywhere else.I copied them all....It is just beyond words.I guess I can also see this L.A. street vibe he has going and although it sounds funny I just love the fact that he's an L.A. designer. I wonder where he sources his fabrics. I read that he gets them made in Italy but man, he has some team. And Michelle, what a sidekick. Love the gold teeth.

            Comment

            • nqth
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2006
              • 350

              #7
              Re: Rick Owens or Martin Margiela?



              Someone told me he couldn't "feel" MMM clothes. Even looking at the look book he said clothes are too quirky and are designed for "other people":-) - I think he meant he would becomesb else wearing the clothes:-)

              Comment

              • Faust
                kitsch killer
                • Sep 2006
                • 37852

                #8
                Re: Rick Owens or Martin Margiela?

                [quote user="nqth"]

                Someone told me he couldn't "feel" MMM clothes. Even looking at the look book he said clothes are too quirky and are designed for "other people":-) - I think he meant he would becomesb else wearing the clothes:-)



                [/quote]



                Hmm, interesting, most of the times it's hard to think of Margiela as "too" anything.

                Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                Comment

                • nqth
                  Senior Member
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 350

                  #9
                  Re: Rick Owens or Martin Margiela?



                  [quote user="Faust"]Hmm, interesting, most of the times it's hard to think of Margiela as "too" anything.[/quote]





                  lol, yeah MMM is rather too "plain". Maybe it is why, bc there is sth mad (cutting, remaking concepts) in the plainness. I think it might be interpreted as "forced", non spontanious, or unnatural by some.

                  Comment

                  • Chinorlz
                    Senior Member
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 6422

                    #10
                    Re: Rick Owens or Martin Margiela?



                    I will always choose Rick over MMM. Every time I see his stuff (including when I went to his London store... i came across it by accident!) it doesn't do anything for me. It just looks plain and basic. Like if I saw someone wearing all MMM down the street I wouldn't look twice.



                    I just don't see him as an innovator, or perhaps my tastes just go in a different direction. Rick is more "interesting" to me. Cool fabrics, drapes etc. Whereas MMM at times just seems like a super expensive vintage repro line. Not to say his stuff isn't nice, it's just not innovative enough for me to want to spend the money.



                    Am I missing something?



                    www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

                    Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

                    Comment

                    • Faust
                      kitsch killer
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 37852

                      #11
                      Re: Rick Owens or Martin Margiela?

                      [quote user="Chinorlz"]

                      I will always choose Rick over MMM. Every time I see his stuff (including when I went to his London store... i came across it by accident!) it doesn't do anything for me. It just looks plain and basic. Like if I saw someone wearing all MMM down the street I wouldn't look twice.



                      I just don't see him as an innovator, or perhaps my tastes just go in a different direction. Rick is more "interesting" to me. Cool fabrics, drapes etc. Whereas MMM at times just seems like a super expensive vintage repro line. Not to say his stuff isn't nice, it's just not innovative enough for me to want to spend the money.



                      Am I missing something?



                      [/quote]



                      You are not necessarily missing anything merely looking at the clothes, especially menswear, although there are interesting pieces like the aforementioned biker jacket, the chunky knits, and (this season) pants recut by taking in a large size pair of pants that required some intricate tailoring. What you maybe missing are two things - one is looking at womenswear, which is more intricate (sometimes I stand there and simply scratch my head wondering how they came up with something like covering a wool coat in delicate lace, like a bride's veil, including all the buttons, or doing the same thing to a pair of jeans). There are also the artisanal lines which are examples of crazy tailoring in themselves. Another thing you might be missing is the context that commands (me, in any case) to look at Margiela as someone who forever changed a lot things in fashion history. Deconstruction like noone has done before - check. Innovative garment tailoring like 2D jacket with 3D shoulders/sleeves - check. Utilizing hand-paint on garments - check. Reworking old garments to give them a new life - check. Unusual presentations such as usage of film and window displays - check. Iconic items (maybe not to everyone's taste, but still iconic) such as the tabi shoes, the manequinn dress, etc. There are plenty things to thank Margiela for. Yes, what you won't see in his clothes is edge that we so often like in the designers we champion, and I often think that there are plenty of pieces that I would not consider "designer," meaning intricate, or interesting, but there is always something here and there. And his accessories rock, there is a lot of quirkiness in them. My 2c, for what it's worth [I]

                      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                      Comment

                      • xcoldricex
                        Senior Member
                        • Sep 2006
                        • 1347

                        #12
                        Re: Rick Owens or Martin Margiela?



                        i like MMM better. i've yet to own a rick piece. i think margiela puts a lot more thought into his clothes - rick just seems to be putting the same thing out every season - while i like it, he doesn't seem to be going anywhere with it. margiela can surprise you - while a lot of his clothes are simple, some of them are only seemingly so and are complex once you inspect it. sometimes its great to have a piece of clothing only you know is special, or people that pay attention ma just be like- hey wait a second.... i like that.



                        Comment

                        • Servo2000
                          Senior Member
                          • Oct 2006
                          • 2183

                          #13
                          Re: Rick Owens or Martin Margiela?

                          [quote user="xcoldricex"]

                          i like MMM better. i've yet to own a rick piece. i think margiela puts a lot more thought into his clothes - rick just seems to be putting the same thing out every season - while i like it, he doesn't seem to be going anywhere with it. margiela can surprise you - while a lot of his clothes are simple, some of them are only seemingly so and are complex once you inspect it. sometimes its great to have a piece of clothing only you know is special, or people that pay attention ma just be like- hey wait a second.... i like that.





                          [/quote]



                          That's why clothes, to me, are all about the little details and the history / ideas / context of pieces. Once you put them on, however, it adds a whole new element. It's why I have such a hard time finding pieces I would like and would be willing to wear.

                          WTB: Rick Owens Padded MA-1 Bomber XS (LIMO / MOUNTAIN)

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