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  • casem
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2006
    • 2590

    F/W 07/08 Men's Predictions and Reviews?



    Thought it would be fun if rather than just listing what we are looking forward to, we could make predictions about what's coming up. So write either what you think we'll see or what you would like tosee in the coming January fashion shows. Whoever is most accurate gets a prize!




    I'll start with a couple:




    JIl Sander: OK, this one is easy, it's obvious the slow evolution Raf is trying to create at JS. Since the S/S 07 show was so colorful, I think he'll incorporate some shots of color into the next show like vibrant red which JS has used in the past and deep electric blues. He's going to have to change the silhouette since the last two shows were so similar. Maybe the pants will widen up and the tops will get more fitted. I think the general silhouette will stay on the boxy/geometric side though. The knits and fabric use will continue to be the standouts.




    Dior Homme: I'm predicting this will beHedi'slast Dior show. His shows seem to go in pairs with F/W kicking it offso I expect something different. I hope he uses some color again, I thought his use of colorfrom SS 04 to F/W05 was nice, but the last two collection have been nothing but black, white and beige (ok silver too).Of course there will still be plenty of skinny suits and tailored clothes and I expect he will continue to leave jeans out of the show entirely. In thecurrent season and SS 07 he's been goingin a less wearable/commercial direction andthis will continue for the next show. Especially if it's his last, he doesn't care if it will sell or not. I expect the usual tricks with cutting up blazers in different ways. I'm trying to think of a specific overall look but nothing's coming to me. I want to make one really specific prediction just incase it comes true, I'll try to post later.




    That's all for now,there are many other shows I'm anticipating but I'll wait to post about them.


    music
  • interman
    Member
    • Dec 2006
    • 88

    #2
    Re: F/W 07/08 Men's Predictions?



    It may be wishful thinking from my part, but I'm hoping we'll see more designers moving to an aesthetic more along the lines of Julius. I'm hoping for more experimental design that remains wearable.



    In terms of color I expect black to be dominant yet again, but I have no idea what'll be the dominant colors. Definitely wouldn't mind a vibrant red.


    Comment

    • Kodak
      Senior Member
      • Oct 2006
      • 191

      #3
      Re: F/W 07/08 Men's Predictions?

      [quote user="interman"]


      It may be wishful thinking from my part, but I'm hoping we'll see more designers moving to an aesthetic more along the lines of Julius. I'm hoping for more experimental design that remains wearable.




      In terms of color I expect black to be dominant yet again, but I have no idea what'll be the dominant colors. Definitely wouldn't mind a vibrant red.





      [/quote]




      I hope not. I mean Julius has their own thing going, but I really don't want to see that anymore. For me in all honesty I really don't like that many of Julius' pieces.

      Comment

      • interman
        Member
        • Dec 2006
        • 88

        #4
        Re: F/W 07/08 Men's Predictions?



        [quote user="Kodak"]I hope not. I mean Julius has their own thing going, but I really don't want to see that anymore. For me in all honesty I really don't like that many of Julius' pieces.[/quote]



        You have a point there, though I think it'd be good for menswear in general to introduce some "new" styles, and Julius is fairly obscure outside of Japan. WIth that said, things do have a habit of starting to suck once too many hop on the bandwagon, and that would be a shame.

        Comment

        • Kodak
          Senior Member
          • Oct 2006
          • 191

          #5
          Re: F/W 07/08 Men's Predictions?



          This is the best place to put this. This is a temporay scheduale, changes will come.
























































































































































































          Friday, January, the 26th

          UNITY

          12.00 pm

          Palais de la Bourse - Palce de la Bourse - Paris 2e

          0044

          1.00 pm

          To be confimed

          NUMBER (N)INE

          2.00 pm

          To be confimed

          RYKIEL HOMME

          3.30 pm

          Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts - Salle Melpomène - 13 quai Malaquais - Paris 6e

          YOHJI YAMAMOTO

          4.30 pm

          155 rue Saint-Martin - Paris 3e

          LOUIS VUITTON


          6.00 pm

          See invitation

          JOHN GALLIANO


          7.30 pm

          To be confimed

          VERONIQUE BRANQUINHO

          8.30 pm

          Automobile Club de France - 6 place de la Concorde - Paris 8e

          Saturday, January, the 27th

          JUNYA WATANABE MAN

          10.00 am

          See invitation

          ARMAND BASI

          11.00 am

          Garage Weber - 66 rue de Turenne - Paris 3e

          ROMAIN KREMER

          1.00 pm

          To be confirmed

          KRIS VAN ASSCHE

          3.00 pm

          Musée de l'Homme - 17 place du Trocadéro - Paris 16e

          COMME DES GARCONS HOMME PLUS

          4.30 pm

          See invitation

          STEPHAN SCHNEIDER

          6.00 pm

          To be confirmed

          DRIES VAN NOTEN

          7.30 pm

          Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts - Salle Melpomène - 13 quai Malaquais - Paris 6e

          RAF SIMONS

          8.30 pm

          POP Bercy - Salle Marcel Cerdant - Porte 28 - 8 boulevard de Bercy - Paris 12e

          Sunday, January, the 28th

          LANVIN

          11.00 am

          To be confirmed

          MASATOMO

          noon

          Hôtel Meurice - 224 rue de Rivoli - Paris 1er

          PAUL & JOE

          1.00 pm

          Grand Hôtel - 2 rue Scribe - Paris 9e

          ANN DEMEULEMEESTER

          2.00 pm

          Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts - Chapelle des Petits Augustins - 14 rue Bonaparte - Paris 6e

          YVES SAINT LAURENT

          4.00 pm

          To be confirmed

          PAUL SMITH

          5.00 pm

          Musée de l'Homme - 17 place du Trocadéro - Paris 16e

          UTE PLOIER

          6.00 pm

          Espace Commines - 17 rue Commines - Paris 3e

          WENDY & JIM HOMME

          7.00 pm

          To be confirmed

          HERMÈS

          8.00 pm

          To be confirmed

          Monday, January, the 29th

          JEROEN VAN TUYL

          11.00 am

          To be confirmed

          JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

          noon

          325 rue Saint-Martin - Paris 3e

          AGNÈS B.

          1.00 pm

          17 rue Dieu - Paris 10e

          PETAR PETROV

          2.30 pm

          To be confirmed

          GASPARD YURKIEVICH

          3.30 pm

          Centre Georges Pompidou

          FRANCESCO SMALTO

          4.30 pm

          Carrousel du Louvre

          GIEVES

          5.30 pm

          Petit Hôtel de Bourienne - 58 rue d'Hauteville - Paris 10e

          WOOYOUNGMI

          6.30 pm

          See invitation

          HENRIK VIBSKOV

          7.30 pm

          See invitation

          MORITZ ROGOSKY

          8.30 pm

          To be confirmed

          Tuesday, January, the 30th

          RUNNING DOGS

          11.00 am

          58 rue Charlot - Paris 3e

          KIMINORI MORISHITA

          noon

          Hôtel Westin

          BLAAK

          1.30 pm

          To be confirmed

          MIHARAYASUHIRO

          2.30 pm

          Palais de Tokyo - 13 avenue du Président Wilson - Paris 13e

          THIERRY MUGLER HOMME

          5.00 pm

          Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts - Salle Melpomène - 13 quai Malaquais - Paris 6e

          DIOR

          6.30 pm

          See invitation

          R.T. PAR RAMDANE TOUHAMI

          8.00 pm

          To be confirmed

          Comment

          • casem
            Senior Member
            • Sep 2006
            • 2590

            #6
            Re: F/W 07/08 Men's Predictions?

            Thanks for the schedule Kodak.
            music

            Comment

            • mutterlein
              Member
              • Dec 2006
              • 44

              #7
              Re: F/W 07/08 Men's Predictions?



              I'mthinking high and slightly nipped waists for men. Very late 10's and early 20's. The cut of the trousers will perhaps be similar to that period but with a lower rise. But definitely very straight and crisp pant legs with hems stopping slightly above the ankles. For color and fabrics maybe black, dark blue, purple, and wool pinstripes.




              If I were to establish a mood it would be a smoky business lounge filled with stiff suits but with the brazen and shocking sensibilties of british 80's subculture (think The Smiths and Factory record bands like the Fall and New Order). It's the graphic aesthetic of Peter Saville meets the Great Gatsby.




              That's at least what I would do If had my own menswear collection.

              Comment

              • Faust
                kitsch killer
                • Sep 2006
                • 37852

                #8
                Re: F/W 07/08 Men's Predictions?



                Milan Schedule


                Sunday January 14 catwalks










































































                10.00am

                Jil Sander[/b]

                Via Ventura, 15


                11.00am

                Missoni[/b]

                via Solferino, 9


                12.00pm

                Costume National Homme[/b]

                via Tortona, 58


                1.00pm

                Dolce & Gabbana[/b]

                Metropol - viale Piave, 24


                2.00pm

                Rocco Barocco[/b]

                Palazzo Mezzanotte - piazza Affari, 6


                3.00pm

                Vivienne Westwood[/b]

                via Procaccini, 4


                4.00pm

                Burberry Prorsum[/b]

                via Melegari, 3


                5.30pm

                Gianni Versace[/b]

                piazza Vetra, 1


                6.30pm

                Krizia Uomo[/b]

                via Manin, 21


                7.30pm

                J Lindeberg[/b]

                via Valtellina, 25



                Sunday January 14 presentations










































                10.30am

                8.00pm

                Shiro'[/b]

                piazza San Marco, 3


                11.00am

                6.00pm

                Ermanno Scervino[/b]

                via Montenapoleone, 15


                11.00am

                7.30pm

                *****L[/b]

                Antonioli Boutique - via P. Paoli, 1


                2.00pm

                7.00pm

                Oliver Spencer[/b]

                corso Venezia, 16


                5.00pm

                8.00pm

                Brioni[/b]

                via Gesu', 4







                Global Map


                Monday January 15 catwalks
























































































                9.30am

                Bottega Veneta[/b]

                viale Piceno, 15/17


                10.30am

                Antonio Marras[/b]

                Teatro dell'Arte - viale Alemagna, 6


                11.30am

                Frankie Morello[/b]

                Pelota - via Palermo, 10


                12.30pm

                Gianfranco Ferre'[/b]

                via Pontaccio, 21


                1.30pm

                Roberto Cavalli[/b]

                via Procaccini, 4


                2.30pm

                Emporio Armani[/b]

                via Bergognone, 59


                3.15pm

                Carlo Pignatelli Outside[/b]

                Superstudio Piu' - via Tortona, 27


                3.45pm

                Neil Barrett[/b]

                Superstudio Piu' - via Tortona, 27


                4.30pm

                Haute[/b]

                via Valenza, 2


                5.30pm

                Prada[/b]

                via Fogazzaro, 36


                6.30pm

                Daks[/b]

                Palazzo Visconti - via Cino del Duca, 8


                7.30pm

                Alexander Mcqueen[/b]

                piazza Santa Francesca Romana



                Monday January 15 presentations































































                9.00am

                6.00pm

                Edwin[/b]

                Slam Jam Studio - via Pietrasanta, 12 - gruppo 1° - int. 14/2 fino al 19/01


                10.00am

                6.00pm

                Salvatore Ferragamo[/b]

                via Borgospesso, 2


                10.00am

                6.00pm

                C. P. Company[/b]

                via Savona, 54


                10.00am

                6.00pm

                Ugo Cacciatori[/b]

                ripa di Porta Ticinese, 65 fino al 19/01 press day su appuntamento


                10.00am

                7.00pm

                Mauro Grifoni[/b]

                via A. Sciesa, 20 Press day


                11.00am

                6.00pm

                Berwich[/b]

                via San Vittore, 21


                2.00pm

                6.00pm

                Hilton - Vestimenta[/b]

                via Morimondo, 26


                3.30pm

                5.30pm

                CK Calvin Klein[/b]

                viale Umbria, 37







                Global Map


                Tuesday January 16 catwalks































































































                9.30am

                Dsquared2[/b]

                via Procaccini, 4


                10.30am

                Valentino[/b]

                Palazzo Mezzanotte - piazza Affari, 6


                11.30am

                Dirk Bikkembergs[/b]

                Superstudio Piu' - via Tortona, 27


                12.30pm

                Alessandro Dell'Acqua[/b]

                Superstudio Piu' - via Tortona, 27


                1.30pm

                Biagiotti[/b]

                Piccolo Teatro Studio - via Rivoli, 6


                1.30pm

                Alberto Incanuti[/b]

                via Tortona, 28


                2.30pm

                John Richmond[/b]

                Giardini di porta Venezia, ingr. via Palestro


                3.30pm

                Moschino[/b]

                via Bezzecca, 5


                4.30pm

                Messori[/b]

                Palazzina Liberty - Largo Marinai d'Italia


                5.30pm

                Gucci[/b]

                piazza Oberdan, 2/b


                6.30pm

                Gazzarrini[/b]

                via G. Negri, 6


                7.30pm

                Giuliano Fujiwara[/b]

                corso Italia, 21


                8.30pm

                Lilang[/b]

                Palazzo Mezzanotte - piazza Affari, 6



                Tuesday January 16 presentations



























































































                9.00am

                7.00pm

                Car Shoe[/b]

                via della Spiga, 1


                10.00am

                6.00pm

                Salvatore Ferragamo[/b]

                via Borgospesso, 2


                10.00am

                7.00pm

                Church's[/b]

                via Sant'Andrea, 11


                10.00am

                7.00pm

                Bally[/b]

                via san Rocco, 17


                10.00am

                5.00pm

                Fratelli Rossetti / Flexa[/b]

                via Montenapoleone, 1


                10.00am

                6.00pm

                Porsche Design Fashion Collection[/b]

                via Tortona, 15 fino al 18/01


                10.00am

                4.30pm

                Versace Collection[/b]

                via Gesu', 12


                10.00am

                7.00pm

                Intuitive[/b]

                piazza San Sepolcro, 1


                12.00pm

                6.00pm

                Loro Piana[/b]

                via Bigli, 22


                2.00pm

                5.00pm

                Pringle of Scotland[/b]

                via Marcona, 3


                4.30pm

                8.30pm

                Nicole Farhi[/b]

                via Nino Bixio, 7


                6.00pm

                9.00pm

                Woolrich Woolen Mills[/b]

                corso Buenos Aires, 2







                Global Map


                Wednesday January 17 catwalks
























































































                9.30am

                Gaetano Navarra[/b]

                Hotel Principe di Savoia - piazza della Repubblica, 17


                9.30am

                Marni[/b]

                via Pergolesi, 8


                10.30am

                Iceberg[/b]

                Pelota - via Palermo, 10


                11.30am

                Trussardi[/b]

                piazza Luigi di Savoia, 30


                12.30pm

                D&G[/b]

                Metropol - viale Piave, 24


                1.30pm

                Etro[/b]

                Superstudio Più - via Tortona, 27


                2.30pm

                Giorgio Armani[/b]

                via Bergognone, 59


                3.30pm

                Giorgio Armani[/b]

                via Bergognone, 59


                4.30pm

                Fendi[/b]

                via Sciesa, 3


                5.30pm

                Denis Simachev[/b]

                via San Barnaba, 48


                6.30pm

                Calvin Klein Collection[/b]

                viale Umbria, 37


                7.30pm

                Belstaff[/b]

                Palazzo Mezzanotte - piazza Affari, 6



                Wednesday January 17 presentations




























                10.00am

                6.00pm

                Lardini[/b]

                via della Spiga, 48


                4.00pm

                7.00pm

                Luciano Barbera[/b]

                via Santo Spirito, 22


                4.00pm

                7.00pm

                Ferre'[/b]

                via Serbelloni, 1







                Global Map


                Thursday January 18 catwalks














































                10.30am

                Enrico Coveri[/b]

                via San Barnaba, 48


                11.30am

                Byblos[/b]

                Superstudio Piu' - via Tortona, 27


                12.30pm

                Marithé + François Girbaud[/b]

                Superstudio Piu' - via Tortona, 27


                1.30pm

                Les Hommes[/b]

                Magazzini di Porta Genova - via Valenza, 2


                2.30pm

                Roen[/b]

                Superstudio Più - via Tortona, 27


                3.30pm

                Romeo Gigli[/b]

                via Fumagalli, 6



                Thursday January 18 presentations
















                10.00am

                4.00pm

                Harry & Sons[/b]

                via Tortona, 35/a


                10.00am

                6.00pm

                Alberto Zambelli[/b]

                tbc


                Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                Comment

                • Kodak
                  Senior Member
                  • Oct 2006
                  • 191

                  #9
                  Re: F/W 07/08 Men's Predictions?

                  I was hoping that Cerruti was going to show andto seewhat Nicolas Andreas Taralis has done for the house.

                  Comment

                  • mutterlein
                    Member
                    • Dec 2006
                    • 44

                    #10
                    Re: F/W 07/08 Men's Predictions?

                    Looks l'm off about the colors but dead on about the silhouette and trousers. I'll have to see how Paris turns out.

                    Comment

                    • Faust
                      kitsch killer
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 37852

                      #11
                      Re: F/W 07/08 Men's Predictions?

                      Casem, I hope you don't mind me changing the title a little. So, what did you guys think? I thought it was a very underwhelming season, much worse than FW06. I expected better from CDG, Junya, KvA, McQueen, Margiela, etc. Ann Dem, Raf, and Dior Homme delivered, and I liked the addition of Pieters. I also liked Yohji's collection a lot. Hopefully Rick Owens and Poell will give us something interesting. Haven't seen Undercover either.
                      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                      Comment

                      • Faust
                        kitsch killer
                        • Sep 2006
                        • 37852

                        #12
                        Re: F/W 07/08 Men's Predictions?



                        Here is a summary by Cathy Horyn. She liked Galliano - that's beyond weird. The rest is pretty much spot on.


                        The Good, the Bad, the Amusing











                        PARIS




                        THE fall 2007 men?s collections demonstrated a virtuosity with
                        cutting, new fabrics, old jokes and bad hair, but produced few laurels.




                        Raf Simons, in a collection with overtones of performance and
                        futurism, pushed himself in a way that recalled the risk-taking of his
                        shows in the late 1990s, when he had nothing to lose. Today, as the
                        creative director of Jil Sander, he has everything to lose if he
                        doesn?t establish his own label as a buffer to big-brand predictability.




                        ?It?s really important to me now to keep my mind open,? Mr. Simons said.




                        The other strong collections of the season were Yves Saint Laurent,
                        where Stefano Pilati finally simmered down and showed an extremely
                        believable collection for the label, and John Galliano,
                        who touched on a criminal-warrior element that seems to rise
                        simultaneously from a teenage comic book and the front pages of a
                        newspaper.




                        Hedi Slimane?s collection for Dior Homme moved neither forward nor
                        backward, perhaps reflecting contract differences with his employer.
                        The mood in the audience on Tuesday evening, the end of the shows, was
                        just as flat, as the models, their hair puffed, did their customary
                        speed walk in mostly dark, slim clothes. There were some excellent
                        coats (classic Slimane), fresh takes on volume in English tweeds,
                        draped jersey diaper pants and silky layers trailing out. Call it a
                        pretty decent produce-replacement collection, if that is what you?re
                        looking for.




                        At the center of his presentation was a whirling wooden light
                        sculpture by the British artist Conrad Shawcross. As the models walked
                        a path in semidarkness, the piece ? part machine ? threw out light from
                        two long latticelike arms that came, as near to the artist?s
                        satisfaction, to colliding.




                        Mr. Simons?s clothes evoked a similar tension. It was apparent he
                        had thought about the futuristic ideas presented in his last five
                        collections, as well as in the women?s shows here last fall, and
                        realized he had to differentiate himself from the space thing. To my
                        mind, the clothes are a little unsettling: hulky shapes, textured and
                        shiny fabrics, long, articulated black leather gloves that suggest
                        robot arms. Some of the fabrics were thickly woven, like a reed mat,
                        and then tailored in jackets; others were made from two fabrics of
                        contrasting texture.




                        The overall impression, though, was masculine and contemporary ?
                        more contemporary than any collection on the Paris runway. With some of
                        the padded jackets and the ribbed sweaters, you felt, in fact, that you
                        were looking at the next thing a cool urban guy will be wearing.
                        Underneath the technical polish, you saw the essential arm of the
                        street: the bulky jacket, the romance with military symbolism. Mr.
                        Simons said afterward that he was interested in shows that had the
                        visual and emotional element of a performance. That mood is out there,
                        too.




                        Mr. Galliano knows all about performance, having given a great one
                        last week at the spring haute couture collections. His head is
                        completely in the right place, and so were his blond curls. The makeup
                        wizard Pat McGrath turned the models? faces into virtual masks,
                        smudging lipstick on stocking-covered heads so that the boys? lips
                        seemed to go sideways, and Stephen Jones supplied the helmets and the
                        dreadlocked hats. With Mr. Galliano?s tough-looking trousers,
                        embroidered sweatshirts and twisted references to male anatomy, the
                        show had a great, fierce energy.




                        In the past, Mr. Pilati has tended to present the YSL man as a
                        pileup of commercial goods. This was his first men?s collection that
                        embraced the brand?s potential. The news was the blend of proportions:
                        lush, oversize coats with skinny trousers and neat jackets with wide
                        wool flannels.




                        Dark colors dominated the collection, with a splash of deep red for
                        a double-faced wool coat. The ribbed wool turtles, crunched inside
                        coats, were a nice touch. A cropped black wool jacket over a black
                        hooded sweater, with wide black wool trousers, ought to connect with an
                        urban audience also looking for something a little bit elegant.




                        In the main, the collections favored a slim silhouette, with Paul
                        Helbers, the men?s designer at Louis Vuitton, focusing on snug, sporty
                        jackets, lush greens and wine reds, and fabrics in color shadings. The
                        clothes at Lanvin were ultraslim and maybe a tad too cutesy, with
                        purple satin sneakers and paper-thin sweaters over matching ties and
                        shirts. The coats were boss, though.




                        Speaking of boss, how much hairspray did the stylist Odile Gilbert
                        pump into the models at Jean Paul Gaultier? And the candy-colored hair!
                        Wild! Mr. Gaultier?s fitted brick-color leather jackets, velvet suits,
                        and ?70s-cut trousers seemed a blend of pimp and mid-American mall. But
                        it was hard not to savor the manic energy. And the sexy cutting, if
                        it?s your thing.




                        Yohji Yamamoto showed Alpine knits with cropped black trousers,
                        fresh-looking coats in vanilla-colored wool, and knits and other wool
                        colors embellished with the sort of female pinup images you see on old
                        gas-station calendars or on the mudflaps of an 18-wheeler.




                        Biker leather with zipper-slashed pants was the punk-rock message at
                        Junya Watanabe. Perfectly acceptable gear for the boys of fall, but not
                        a great deal of news.




                        At Comme des Garçons, Rei Kawakubo based her collection around four
                        men who played various roles in London life of the ?60s. Their
                        well-worn faces and transparent individuality seem to steal the thunder
                        from the clothes, which included Indian suits in deep pastels, jaunty
                        tailoring and some lovely tattered knits in washed-out patterns.




                        It was hard to figure out what was up with Dries van Noten?s
                        collection. Well, it didn?t seem Dries. The slim silhouette, the blasts
                        of chrome yellow and the silver leather shoes were clearly meant to
                        suggest an edge. But the girlie sweaters, thin and asymmetrically
                        buttoned, just took things over the edge. It?s great to see any
                        designer push against his limits, but a self-consciousness came through
                        and through.



                        Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                        StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                        Comment

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