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Erdem Moralioglu

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  • Servo2000
    Senior Member
    • Oct 2006
    • 2183

    Erdem Moralioglu

    I typically leave the JC report-reports to Faust, but this particular designer caught my eye, for one reason or another. I largely attribute it to my current fascination with everything primarily in black and white, but there's other aspects to it as well. I can't say that I have yet to examine his older work, and all I know about the man is what I've gleamed from the article.


    Erdem Moralioglu lived in Montreal before moving to Birmingham in his late teens. The half-Turkish designer graduated from London's Royal College of Art and, gained a rare internship at Vivienne Westwood, and then worked for Diane von Furstenberg in New York. Snaring Fashion Fringe's top prize in 2005, with an award of £10,000 worth of industry contacts, Moralioglu has been using the boost to forward his eponymous line, now in its third season. Part of a cluster of "printers" coming out of London that includes Basso and Brooke and Jonathan Saunders, Moralioglu's bright, colorful, and feminine full-length dresses in chiffon, worn with vivid cropped jackets from his award-winning collection, were early signs of the elegant refinement that now defines his aesthetic. And the designer has shown that he is as much about sculpting the female form as he is about print, showing off deft tailoring that nips and tucks in all the right places. "Prints are the first thing that I start with, it links the collection together, but overall it's not a print based collection, it's a textile collection," explains Moralioglu of his design process, "I'm always drawn by fabric then silhouette," he continues.


    via http://jcreport.com/76333


    A couple of images from his current collection, not necessarily my favorite, per say, but that jumped out at me:


    Good shot of the lace that is pervasive in the current collection.


    Love the 3D black elements on the upper portions of this piece!


    Good example of the hats that are also throughout the show, and my favorite hat (so far), as well as showing " a feeling of a whimsical '20s influence speckled with a youthful irreverence where anything goes."


    The only thing that's bothering me is that he did an irritatingly good job of basically doing a couple of pieces almost precisely similiar to the menswear "collection" that I've been designing / illustrating and was planning to start working on constructing soon. The 3D accessories on the shirt, the 1920's hats in black, etc... It's really strange how similiar it is. He executes them considerably better (although I actually prefer my design of the hats a little better, although I'm sure the execution / construction will be unimpressive on my part), especially the 3D accessory pieces.

    WTB: Rick Owens Padded MA-1 Bomber XS (LIMO / MOUNTAIN)
  • Servo2000
    Senior Member
    • Oct 2006
    • 2183

    #2
    Re: Erdem Moralioglu

    I'd appreciate comments one-way-or-the-other on this, even if you don't have much to say! I'm still developing an aesthetic and my opinions on all aspects of clothing, so opinions about works that, at first glance, appear interesting to me are universally helpful. My understanding / opinions on womenswear is nowhere near as informed as mine on menswear, so the opinions of others are useful to point out, say, the unwearability / impracticality of a piece, or why a piece not appeal from an actual wearability as opposed to my purely aesthetic perspective on women's clothing. Hell, maybe it's just not as interesting to you as it is to me, and if you can figure out why, I'd really appreciate that comment, for instance.

    Anyway, I'm not trying to guilt-trip / insist upon responses for what might be, to some, a boring designer, but I'd appreciate the opportunity to see your opinions.
    WTB: Rick Owens Padded MA-1 Bomber XS (LIMO / MOUNTAIN)

    Comment

    • laika
      moderator
      • Sep 2006
      • 3787

      #3
      Re: Erdem Moralioglu



      Hmm...it's a bit hard to judge from the pics; and he [the designer] is not expressing a very clear perspective either--how is this a collection about textiles and/or pattern? The lace is also a big turn off for me, especially in the form of hosiery. Looks very dated.



      Servo, what do you find appealing about it, other than the black and white? [*-)]

      ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

      Comment

      • Servo2000
        Senior Member
        • Oct 2006
        • 2183

        #4
        Re: Erdem Moralioglu

        [quote user="laika"]

        Hmm...it's a bit hard to judge from the pics; and he [the designer] is not expressing a very clear perspective either--how is this a collection about textiles and/or pattern? The lace is also a big turn off for me, especially in the form of hosiery. Looks very dated.



        Servo, what do you find appealing about it, other than the black and white? [*-)]

        [/quote]

        If it makes any sense, the manner in which the designer examined and chose to display an attitude / idea, primarily. For whatever reason, I feel like I can get a real sense of an idea or image being expressed by the clothing. I found that intriguing.

        Aesthetically, it was mostly just a few inspirational ideas that I found intriguing. In fact, aesthetically, it is not terribly interesting. I enjoyed a few of the prints, and a couple of interpretations of classics (I don't know if that's the word, more like modernizations, successful or not, of old ideas) were amusing. The collection as a whole is not what I would call terribly impressive but there are elements of it I like. I found the lace to look rather dated as well, and I would go so far as to say that the dresses are somewhat unflattering in most instances. The more I look at this fellows work the less I like it, and this collection is quickly paling in my eyes, which were perhaps at first distracted by a few inconsequential things.

        I need to give myself a few hours to let designers work digest before I post it, from now on, I think. In the space of time since I posted asking for comments, and now, my own opinion has changed considerably as well. To put it one way: I don't know that I would've bothered to comment if someone else had posted it, at this point.


        WTB: Rick Owens Padded MA-1 Bomber XS (LIMO / MOUNTAIN)

        Comment

        • laika
          moderator
          • Sep 2006
          • 3787

          #5
          Re: Erdem Moralioglu



          Well, if you figured out that much, than it's hardly a waste. If you're trying to develop a perspective on womenswear, discerning elements that appeal to you (even if they are just elements, and not the whole collection); and figuring out why they appeal to you is a crucial part of the process. And there's a benefit to practicing this with unknown designers, since you less likely to be swayed by what everyone else says is good.



          BTW, are you perchance a budding designer or writer???

          ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

          Comment

          • Faust
            kitsch killer
            • Sep 2006
            • 37852

            #6
            Re: Erdem Moralioglu

            [quote user="laika"]

            Well, if you figured out that much, than it's hardly a waste. If you're trying to develop a perspective on womenswear, discerning elements that appeal to you (even if they are just elements, and not the whole collection); and figuring out why they appeal to you is a crucial part of the process. And there's a benefit to practicing this with unknown designers, since you less likely to be swayed by what everyone else says is good.



            BTW, are you perchance a budding designer or writer???



            [/quote]



            HUGE 2nd. Servo, there is nothing more gratifying than cutting out your preferences, discovering patterns, reasoning, philosophy in it. There are no mistakes - judgment is a sum-total of one's experience. Did I ever tell you about my Versace shirts and Iceberg sweaters? [;)]



            BTW, I met (I think) the designer's sister at a playground in Tribeca over a year ago. This was my second experience of encountering fashion-related people through my daugther [:D]

            Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

            StyleZeitgeist Magazine

            Comment

            • Servo2000
              Senior Member
              • Oct 2006
              • 2183

              #7
              Re: Erdem Moralioglu

              [quote user="laika"]

              Well, if you figured out that much, than it's hardly a waste. If you're trying to develop a perspective on womenswear, discerning elements that appeal to you (even if they are just elements, and not the whole collection); and figuring out why they appeal to you is a crucial part of the process. And there's a benefit to practicing this with unknown designers, since you less likely to be swayed by what everyone else says is good.



              BTW, are you perchance a budding designer or writer???

              [/quote]

              I'm a budding something, but those are two things I'm definitely interested in. I love illustration, so if neither a fashion designer, a writer, or retail-space owner or anything else I'm thinking about doing fashion illustration for advertisements / editorials / etc... we'll see where my interests keep going in the next year or two. Perhaps it's just another element of the fashion as architecture element, but architecure is something that's always fascinated me as well. For my college-submission-portfolios at the moment I'm working on some illustrations / designs that show the connection between the two 'genres,' in addition to a couple of actual constructed garments and some 3D pieces I've been working on.

              Thanks for putting what I was trying to accomplish with my examination of this collection into such effective wording, Laika.

              WTB: Rick Owens Padded MA-1 Bomber XS (LIMO / MOUNTAIN)

              Comment

              • minja
                Junior Member
                • Dec 2006
                • 20

                #8
                Re: Erdem Moralioglu

                I could look at women in white lace stockings all day. But I guess that doesn't really speak much about the clothes, does it?

                Comment

                • laika
                  moderator
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 3787

                  #9
                  Re: Erdem Moralioglu



                  Servo, that sounds very cool. My dissertation is about clothing and architecture. [:)] You should share your work sometime.



                  And you are welcome, although you worded it quite effectively yourself. That's why I asked about the writing...

                  ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

                  Comment

                  • Faust
                    kitsch killer
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 37852

                    #10
                    Re: Erdem Moralioglu

                    [quote user="laika"]

                    Servo, that sounds very cool. My dissertation is about clothing and architecture. [:)] You should share your work sometime.



                    And you are welcome, although you worded it quite effectively yourself. That's why I asked about the writing...



                    [/quote]



                    Cool! Did you go to the fashion/architecture exhibition at the achitecture center on Laguardia St? I heard it was good.

                    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                    Comment

                    • Servo2000
                      Senior Member
                      • Oct 2006
                      • 2183

                      #11
                      Re: Erdem Moralioglu

                      [quote user="laika"]

                      Servo, that sounds very cool. My dissertation is about clothing and architecture. [:)] You should share your work sometime.



                      And you are welcome, although you worded it quite effectively yourself. That's why I asked about the writing...

                      [/quote]

                      Thank you, Laika. I do believe I will end up posting it eventually, but only once it's to a point I find satisfactory, and being a bit of a perfectionist, I can say with no doubt that it will not be anytime terribly soon. I do rather pride myself a bit on my writing (which is only really a by product of being an obsessive reader). I could certainly do a bit more to put more care into how I word things online, but really, it's the internet! The only real academic writing I've ever done in relation to the more "creative" side of things (and it's not terribly good) is a piece I wrote on Bosanquet's Three Lectures on Aesthetic in relation to ceramics, but I rather enjoy it. I've only really become interested in examining more of the philosophical / theoretical intellectual aspects of art really intensely within the past several months, but I've been reading voraciously, so maybe I'll do a piece on fashion soon. Probably after I get some of my books in the mail, but we'll see.
                      WTB: Rick Owens Padded MA-1 Bomber XS (LIMO / MOUNTAIN)

                      Comment

                      • laika
                        moderator
                        • Sep 2006
                        • 3787

                        #12
                        Re: Erdem Moralioglu



                        Faust, I did see that exhibit. I enjoyed it very much, especially seeing some of the stuff up close--Chalayan's aeroplane dress, etc. Like most of their exhibits though, I found it extremely technical and rather text-heavy. It helps if you are familiar with architectural theory and its jargon (which can be really horrendous, although many find it sexy). It was definitely smart, though.



                        Servo, I have never heard of Bosanquet, but I see he wrote an intro to Hegel's aesthetics, which I am constantly being told I must read. What kind of ceramics? Sorry for all the questions....but...you know...[8-|]. I really enjoy writing myself, but hate academic-speak, and am constantly struggling to find my own language while trying to communicate (with academics, grrrr). Anyway, I would be most interested to hear what you are reading/writing about, even if you are not going to post it (I completely understand your hesitation).

                        ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

                        Comment

                        • racq
                          Junior Member
                          • Jan 2007
                          • 1

                          #13
                          Re: Erdem Moralioglu



                          I was one of Erdem's interns here in London right after he won the fashion fringe competition, and it was a really horrible experience. I dont mean to go onbitching about it, but if i had a choicei certainly wouldnt have worked with him.(i shall leave out the details..) He loves working with prints, and I have no problems with that. Although some of his prints are actually nice; but its nothing an art student can't do. His dresses are not of a special cut, nor are they very inspiring, or especially flattering/beautiful. Personally i feel that he tries very hard to use prints/elaborate lacesas his trademark/style, but his work is nothing we haven't seen before.Its nothing spectacular at all, and his work does nothing for me.

                          Comment

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