Miguel Adrover To Return?

[zamb]

Miguel Adrover in 2004. (NYT)

On exhibit: The return of Miguel Adrover

LONDON:
Miguel Adrover, the designer who disappeared from the fashion radar
since he left New York three years ago, is making a comeback.

Adrover, 41, now based in his native Majorca, is not only taking
part in "New York Fashion Now," an exhibition that opens on Tuesday at
London's Victoria & Albert museum. The designer with a strong
social agenda is also in discussions with a global fashion company,
according to information circulating in London.

Reached in Majorca, Adrover would not discuss any future plans but
said that he had relocated his studio to Palma de Mallorca, where he
has built up a private clientele, as well as creating recycled
clothing, following his long-term "green" aesthetic.

"For me it has been a good time to think and analyze and make the
philosophy of the company more understandable," says the designer.

Given Adrover's exceptional tailoring skills and creative
intelligence, it has been a mystery why he was not chased by European
houses after he left America

The designer went to New York in 1991, set up Horn boutique in
Manhattan's East Village in 1995, and founded his own label in 1999. In
the forefront of fighting fashion's global, logo-mad culture, he
famously made elegant clothes by recycling a ticking mattress and a
Burberry raincoat. His show of multicultural clothing with Arab
inspiration was later viewed as a prescient vision of terrorist events.

Adrover won critical acclaim and awards for collections that he
showed once a year. But after his backer, Pegasus Group, withdrew, he
was forced to close his studio with his last collection for
spring/summer 2005.

Sonnet Stanfill, the curator of the V & A show, uses Adrover as
an example of the difficulty of setting up in fashion, while
celebrating the fact that 20 designers emerged in New York between
1999-2004, including current names such as Proenza Schouler and Zac
Posen.

Adrover, who opened his own space in Majorca and counts art,
photography and poetry among his interests, is still doubtful about big
brand fashion.

"In the way we see clothing, we have lost the sense of the
industry," he says. "We have lost contact with reality and it needs to
change."

[laika]

Re: Miguel Adrover To Return?



Very interesting news, thanks for posting. I wonder if something will come of it. The political climate seems even more appropriate to his work now...

What do you think of him, zam? He could also be called "avante-garde" tailor, no?

[zamb]

Re: Miguel Adrover To Return?

[quote user="laika"]

Very interesting news, thanks for posting. I wonder if something will come of it. The political climate seems even more appropriate to his work now...

What do you think of him, zam? He could also be called "avante-garde" tailor, no?

[/quote]

Yes he should be called an Avante Garde Tailor, I think this is a classification (category) of designers we need to Promote for the sake of Clarity,

What do i think of Him, I liked a lot of his earlier work (1999-2001) I was offered the opportunity to work for him in 2000 but passed because i had to go back to school in Miami . when he started i had just moved to NY, it was a really wonderful and creative tim in NYC then, there was a lot of people who had no money but were helpful in making sure each other was getting ahead. i dont know if that time is ever going to come back (sadly) as sept 11, and corporate greed has killed that most beautiful time................

I remember there was Tess Giberson, Benjamin Cho, Bruce, As Four, Morteza Saifi, Patricia Ayres, Mark Kroeker, Markus Heumer, ORFI, Seth Shapiro(American Manufacturing), IOC( with Matt Damhave) and an endless list of Creatives all doing thier thing. The quality was not always good, but there was a lot of Wonderful Ideas coming out. From the Pile he Became the BIggest, some people were upset with Him, accusing him of "selling Out". I wasnt mad at him though, as i knew he needed the resources to continue, and the attention he was getting, demanded that he delivered at a Higher level. i Think the big mistake he made was signing with the Pegasus group as opposed to LVMH or Onward Kashiama which were all clamouring for his Label. i think the rationale behind that was to keep it "American" and also the fact that at the time he was an Illegal Immigrant.

I would really love to see him return though, Just not being pressured to suppress his true Ideas for the sake of Trying to be Ralph Lauren.

Laika,

Did you see that Vogue Spread (june 2001, I think) that had about 10 labels (12 designers) in it with him?. i think i still have the magazine at home somewhere. was a really nice article. It had (i think) Josephus Thimister, Lawrence Steele, AF Vandevost, Olivier Theyskens, Veronique B., Hussien Chalayan, Nicolas Ghesquire, Junya Watanabe, Hedi Simane (still at YSL) Narciso Rodriguez and Adrover.

[laika]

Re: Miguel Adrover To Return?



zam, I didn't see that--I am very bad about magazines--but it sounds wonderful!

It's so interesting what you say about why he signed with Pegasus group--simultaneously to keep it American and because he was an illegal immigrant! Very ironic; and it makes an interesting caption for his S/S 05 show, which I was just looking at....it's all cowboys and indians! [:|] Almost seems like a snipe at RL, come to think of it.

[zamb]

Re: Miguel Adrover To Return?



Now i dont read them anymore either, I dont know if its the novelty of them wearing off (we didnt have a lot of access to magazines in JA and when we did they were way to expensive) they just dont interest me anymore.........

Yea, I read someplace where he said he wanted to be like Ralph...........

I Love ralph and own a few things, but dont believe in his kind of fashion