So I'm around 80% done with my go at Poell's twist denims with overlock. I took rigorous and tedious measurements of the blue pair I own and used those measurements (with a tad bit of expansion on some measurements [:P]) to make a pair in black with white overlock.
I have the chalked fabric photos somewhere... prior to cutting them out along with pinned photos, but here is the current state of them:
I'm in the process of placing in the lining at this point and making sure it'll fit without any pulling or too much wrinkling.
Then I'll put in the waistband/belt loops which will lock in the lining in the crotch/waist upper portion and then I can focus on the task of pinning the lining (which will be straight down the leg) to the twisting denim.
To account for twisting, the outer layers have to not only be cut offset so that the seams twist around the legs slightly a la Linea seams but must be cut looser around the leg since extra fabric must be necessary for twisting.
I've tediously overlocked the inner seams of each leg, copying Poell's method where that seam was overlocked and then the lining put in and then the lining is stitched to the outer denim seam and then this is finally overlocked together. I've included photos of my method of overlock...
Let me first say that Zamb's is much easier and has a lovely result. My method is completely by hand and I wish that fate upon no one. Took me around 3-4 hours just to overlock each leg (42" inseam) right now. I first run a dual thread 'rectangular" up-across-down-across stitch and then go back and reinforce it with a single thick thread that zig zags on the inner stitches. My thought and hope is that this stitch will equalize the tension and pressure that the overlock stitch is subject to and this will prevent any irregularities of the overlock that would potentially have happened over time (ie- one stitch gets longer than others because it's on the curve of the butt etc.). So far it seems to be working (and it looks kinda purdy) but my god... it's tedious!
if you guys can do it, use Zamb's method (see "mock overlock technique" thread he started in the DIY forum here) unless you have lots (lots lots) of free time and have lots of movies/tv to catch up on.
So far, one of the problems I've run into is that I kinda messed up the crotch and it's kind of concave because the point where all the fabric comes together at the crotch I didn't stitch evenly so it's a little bit puckered on some sides and the fly is a bit stiff. I'm hoping that with wear it may change some and that since the pants will have lots of folds in them that the crotch issue will be overlooked/"lost" in the overall look.
This is my first go at construction of any pants from scratch... I guess I'm trying to run before I can walk in a sense hahaha. Needless to say, it's insanely time consuming. I have further respect for anyone that crafts super sharply tailored pieces. So many things to take into account, I don't know how you guys do it! Mad props
I'll keep everyone posted on the progress!
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