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  • Chinorlz
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2006
    • 6422

    CCP Overlock Twist Jeans



    So I'm around 80% done with my go at Poell's twist denims with overlock. I took rigorous and tedious measurements of the blue pair I own and used those measurements (with a tad bit of expansion on some measurements [:P]) to make a pair in black with white overlock.



    I have the chalked fabric photos somewhere... prior to cutting them out along with pinned photos, but here is the current state of them:













    I'm in the process of placing in the lining at this point and making sure it'll fit without any pulling or too much wrinkling.



    Then I'll put in the waistband/belt loops which will lock in the lining in the crotch/waist upper portion and then I can focus on the task of pinning the lining (which will be straight down the leg) to the twisting denim.



    To account for twisting, the outer layers have to not only be cut offset so that the seams twist around the legs slightly a la Linea seams but must be cut looser around the leg since extra fabric must be necessary for twisting.



    I've tediously overlocked the inner seams of each leg, copying Poell's method where that seam was overlocked and then the lining put in and then the lining is stitched to the outer denim seam and then this is finally overlocked together. I've included photos of my method of overlock...



    Let me first say that Zamb's is much easier and has a lovely result. My method is completely by hand and I wish that fate upon no one. Took me around 3-4 hours just to overlock each leg (42" inseam) right now. I first run a dual thread 'rectangular" up-across-down-across stitch and then go back and reinforce it with a single thick thread that zig zags on the inner stitches. My thought and hope is that this stitch will equalize the tension and pressure that the overlock stitch is subject to and this will prevent any irregularities of the overlock that would potentially have happened over time (ie- one stitch gets longer than others because it's on the curve of the butt etc.). So far it seems to be working (and it looks kinda purdy) but my god... it's tedious!



    if you guys can do it, use Zamb's method (see "mock overlock technique" thread he started in the DIY forum here) unless you have lots (lots lots) of free time and have lots of movies/tv to catch up on.



    So far, one of the problems I've run into is that I kinda messed up the crotch and it's kind of concave because the point where all the fabric comes together at the crotch I didn't stitch evenly so it's a little bit puckered on some sides and the fly is a bit stiff. I'm hoping that with wear it may change some and that since the pants will have lots of folds in them that the crotch issue will be overlooked/"lost" in the overall look.



    This is my first go at construction of any pants from scratch... I guess I'm trying to run before I can walk in a sense hahaha. Needless to say, it's insanely time consuming. I have further respect for anyone that crafts super sharply tailored pieces. So many things to take into account, I don't know how you guys do it! Mad props



    I'll keep everyone posted on the progress!

    www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

    Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "
  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37852

    #2
    Re: CCP Overlock Twist Jeans

    Albert, this is truly brilliant!!! [:O][:|][U][Y]
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

    Comment

    • Casius
      Senior Member
      • Dec 2006
      • 4772

      #3
      Re: CCP Overlock Twist Jeans

      I concur with Faust. And the fact you haven't done any pants before this makes this even more amazing! What a way to start out, heheh.

      Again, they look incredible Albert and I definitely can't wait to see the end result.
      "because the young are whores. dealers come to carol to get the rock"

      Comment

      • Chinorlz
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2006
        • 6422

        #4
        Re: CCP Overlock Twist Jeans



        thanks! [:$][:P]



        I hope they come out ok as well! I'm just slogging through. So many of the stitches are done by hand because I'm afraid that my IKEA-bought sewing machine here won't be able to handle thick sections and I'm not so comfortable yet with stitches getting put in so quickly that I may not be able to do the minor adjustments as I go.



        If Zamb made a pair from scratch, he'd have 10 pairs done in the same time frame as my one I'm sure!

        www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

        Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

        Comment

        • ddohnggo
          Senior Member
          • Oct 2006
          • 4477

          #5
          Re: CCP Overlock Twist Jeans

          looks very awesome! i'm sure it's an arduous process, but your hard work is showing. where did you source your denim from?
          Did you get and like the larger dick?

          Comment

          • drexl
            Senior Member
            • Sep 2006
            • 798

            #6
            Re: CCP Overlock Twist Jeans

            Damn Albert, that's sick!! Good job buddy, can't wait to see the finished version with thew twist effect! [Y]

            Comment

            • Chinorlz
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2006
              • 6422

              #7
              Re: CCP Overlock Twist Jeans



              [quote user="ddohnggo"]looks very awesome! i'm sure it's an arduous process, but your hard work is showing. where did you source your denim from?
              [/quote]





              hehe, thanks again guys :) It's very encouraging!



              I got the denim at this outdoor Turkish market that occurs twice a week here in Berlin. Its a mix of stand selling all kinds of fabrics, fruits, veggies, seafood, meats. I managed to find the one stand that carries denim so it worked out well :) 5 euro a yard.

              www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

              Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

              Comment

              • zamb
                Senior Member
                • Nov 2006
                • 5834

                #8
                Re: CCP Overlock Twist Jeans



                Albert, this i brilliant, i am proud of you



                Matter of fact, not offence to CCP or Anyone but in some ways this is more artisanal.......... In the sense that His is done by machine and yours is done by hand



                I have a lot to say about this, but i will try to continue the post later tonite as i am trying to finish a suit right now that i should have done from yesterday.........i have to give it to the client tomorrow

                “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                .................................................. .......................


                Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                Comment

                • vgnome
                  Junior Member
                  • Jun 2007
                  • 3

                  #9
                  Re: CCP Overlock Twist Jeans

                  This is crazy being done by hand.. awesome job. I'd love to see the picture of the chalked pieces on the fabric, if you can post it up later.

                  Comment

                  • Chinorlz
                    Senior Member
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 6422

                    #10
                    Re: CCP Overlock Twist Jeans



                    Thanks vgnome! I should have the photos of the chalked fabric up tomorrow (it's 2 am here so it's time for me to turn in hehe).



                    and thank you Zamb. It means a lot coming from someone in the field! I eagerly await your comments and potential suggestions.



                    Good luck on your suit! Your work is never done :)



                    www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

                    Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

                    Comment

                    • jiggy
                      Junior Member
                      • Feb 2007
                      • 29

                      #11
                      Re: CCP Overlock Twist Jeans



                      Wow albert, thats awesome.



                      Considering that this is your first time constructing a pair, it is really a job well done.



                      The overlock stitching is really nice. Just cant wait to see the final results especially the twist effect when it is put on.



                      Maby you should include this into the charity project as well! [;)]



                      Comment

                      • Chinorlz
                        Senior Member
                        • Sep 2006
                        • 6422

                        #12
                        Re: CCP Overlock Twist Jeans

                        [quote user="jiggy"]

                        Wow albert, thats awesome.



                        Considering that this is your first time constructing a pair, it is really a job well done.



                        The overlock stitching is really nice. Just cant wait to see the final results especially the twist effect when it is put on.



                        Maby you should include this into the charity project as well! [;)]





                        [/quote]





                        Hehe, I wish I could do these for charity... but I'd either have to charge essentially the same price as Carol's given the amount of time needed for each pair! It'll only be the card cases for charity :)



                        Once this project is done, my next one will be the kangaroo leather knit scarf. I'd like to do a pair of standard overlock jeans but I think it will plain take too long to complete before med school madness!

                        www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

                        Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

                        Comment

                        • Chinorlz
                          Senior Member
                          • Sep 2006
                          • 6422

                          #13
                          Re: CCP Overlock Twist Jeans



                          The waistband took forever (still need to run two more lines of stitches around too)... mostly because thesewing machine I have can't handle the multiple layers of denim. I should invest in something more industrial later...




                          But I overlocked the crotch seam so here is all that:







                          I'm going to pin the twisting today and finish up the rest of the waistband/belt loops at the end.




                          If these were straight legged jeans, life would be easier. No need for a lining and no twisting! I'm considering making a pair (much later.... haha) like the upcoming overlock jeans from Carol.

                          www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

                          Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

                          Comment

                          • clay
                            Senior Member
                            • Sep 2006
                            • 284

                            #14
                            Re: CCP Overlock Twist Jeans

                            OMG!!!!!!!! Dude , designer and doctor. GOOD GOING!!!!!

                            Comment

                            • Purity
                              Senior Member
                              • Apr 2007
                              • 239

                              #15
                              Re: CCP Overlock Twist Jeans

                              They look amazing Chinorlz! Really looking forward to see the twisting (how is that done by the way?). Not really a fan of the assymetrical back pockets though.

                              Comment

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