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  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37852

    Dover Street Market



    An article/interview from wallpaper.com Looks like a guerrilla store in Beirut is coming. Next level of irony?



    In our opinion the husband and wife team, Adrian Joffe and Rei
    Kawakubo, can do little wrong. Not only is Comme de Garcons one of our
    wardrobe highlights, but we?re enormous fans of their fragrance
    portfolio and their worldwide guerrilla stores have spawned some of our
    most memorable retail sessions. But of all their projects, London?s
    Dover Street Market is perhaps our favourite.



    When it opened in 2004, shock waves rippled around neighbouring
    Mayfair: the W1 district is not somewhere that readily lends itself to
    scaffold, portakabins and exposed brick. But the winning combination of
    intriguing interiors and globally sourced labels (hand-picked by
    Kawakubo herself) soon silenced any discerning neighbours, and two
    years later Dover Street Market is a landmark destination for anyone
    with more than a passing interest in quality fashion and retail.



    In keeping with new season collections, Joffe and Kawakubo,
    with the help of guest designers each time, transform the interior of
    the store in what?s known as Tachiagari (the word comes from the
    twisting trunk of the Bonsai tree). This time round, new spaces have
    been designed by Kawakubo, Pierre Hardy, Alber Elbaz and Manish Arora
    amongst others. Michael Howells, the set designer responsible for much
    of the store?s interiors, has created an installation for the ground
    floor window, inspired by Comme de Garcons Homme Plus.




    We took time out with Adrian Joffe to discuss the evolution of the unique store and had a sneak preview of the new interiors. Click here to read the interview and here to see the gallery.



    -------------------------------------------------------------------




    Have the first two and half years at Dover Street Market
    gone according to plan or have you updated and adapted things as you?ve
    gone along?


    Our plan in fact was to continually change and update the store. From
    the very beginning we wanted something alive that could lend itself
    well to changes and evolution.




    Tell us a little about the changes you?ve undertaken to the store?
    There
    have been countless changes: the basement has already gone through
    three incarnations, new concessions have been added, furniture has been
    completely changed, wall constructed and taken away, new backdrops
    painted. It?s hard to talk ?a little? about the changes we?ve done
    here!




    How have the labels you stock alongside Comme de Garcons changed, or developed?

    They?ve been added to extensively. We keep trying to make more space for more people.




    Are the portakabins still there?

    Most certainly.




    A lot of people have commented on the film-set feel to Howell?s interior- was this intentional?
    Absolutely.
    We decided not to work with architects, but with film and stage set
    designers, of which Michael Howells is our favourite. We wanted to see
    the backside of the backdrop as well.




    What we love particularly about DSM is the very effortless,
    non-aggressive anti-corporate feel to the space- so at odds with every
    other retail space within a square mile- is this something you?ve
    consciously cultivated?


    This is indeed what we wanted, an ever-changing interaction of creative
    ideas and diverse visions coming together in the context of a market
    place, without taking any notice of rules, regulations and market
    forces. However, we also always wanted to remain, at heart, just a shop
    that sells nice things in a cool atmosphere ? not an exhibition place,
    not a gallery, not a museum and certainly not a place where fashion met
    art.




    How do the clientele of DSM differ to those of your other flagships?
    It seems to have become a fashion tourist attraction in its own right.


    The clientele is certainly much wider than in our Paris and New York
    stores, perhaps given there?s just so much choice. And yes it does
    appear we?ve become something of a tourist attraction too, which is
    fine.




    Could DSM have worked in Paris or New York, do you think?
    No,
    I don?t think so. DSM for us remains very much anchored in the spirit
    and energy of London, from which it drew its inspiration. In another
    city it would inevitably have to be something different. And in any
    case, we never do the same shop twice since it?s important for us that
    each of our shops has a connection with its location, no matter how
    abstract.




    Your guerrilla concept stores have been immensely popular all over
    the world. Where did your inspiration come from and how do they work
    alongside your permanent flagships in London, Paris and New York?


    The guerrilla concept was born out of the starting-up energy from East
    Berlin, where kids would take a tiny space for a hundred dollars a
    month, and just do their own thing. We?ve now opened and closed 29
    guerrilla stores, all completely different, all with very different
    people, who don?t work in the fashion business as such. We?ve not yet
    considered a guerrilla store in London, Paris or New York as the main
    idea is to break new grounds in markets not yet developed. But as a
    concept, guerrilla stores sit nicely with DSM and everything else we
    do, as everything essentially adheres to our core sense of values.




    And what of your future plans?

    We?re just opening a new guerrilla store in Beirut, and looking forward
    to some Comme de Garcons flagship stores in China coming up soon.





    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine
  • Mirror&Rack
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2007
    • 116

    #2
    Re: Dover Street Market

    I truly admire the spirit of their 'guerilla' shops, though I have yet to visit one. I like Kawakubo's work, though I've never gone CDG crazy, most pieces tending to be very outspoken. My CDG alpaca/cashmere coat from a few years back will always have a home in my closet, i think it is one of the most timeless pieces i own, not to mention it's sartorial elegance. LoL, Beirut would be ironic, but i suppose Rei's aesthetic fits well with the destroy and rebuild theme that the city tends to perpetuate, whether intentionally or not. such is nature.

    Comment

    • Faust
      kitsch killer
      • Sep 2006
      • 37852

      #3
      Re: Dover Street Market



      Update



      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

      Comment

      • Faust
        kitsch killer
        • Sep 2006
        • 37852

        #4
        Looks like DSM is taking Fashion's Night Out to the next level.

        Then next Thursday, September 10th, which happens to be our 5th birthday, there's a whole bunch of things happening in celebration of Vogue's Fashion Night Out. We'll be open from 11am till 11pm, and everyone is welcome. Highlights of the day will be the long awaited launch of the PLAY Converse Sneaker together with a very special , highly exclusive, rather unique, limited edition PLAY T-Shirt as well as the debut of our very own fragrance aptly entitled Dover Street Market.
        We are also thrilled to present Roland Mouret's first ever mens collection and a collaboration between Victorinox Swiss Army Knife and DSM, including an edited selection of Victorinox clothing. You've got to at least pop in to get your free Comme des Garçons Fashion Night Out badges, a glass of something to drink and a sausage on a stick (vegetarian options available also) from Rose Bakery.
        Throughout the day, and especially in the evening, many of our designers will be attending to their spaces and trying to sell you their wares, personally. This includes Christopher Kane, Gareth Pugh, Stephen Jones, Peter Jensen, Hussein Chalayan, Marios Schwab and the boys from Peter Pilotto plus many, many more. Who knows who you might bump into!
        Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

        StyleZeitgeist Magazine

        Comment

        • STEALTH
          Senior Member
          • Feb 2008
          • 250

          #5
          Originally posted by Faust View Post
          Looks like DSM is taking Fashion's Night Out to the next level.

          Then next Thursday, September 10th, which happens to be our 5th birthday, there's a whole bunch of things happening in celebration of Vogue's Fashion Night Out. We'll be open from 11am till 11pm, and everyone is welcome. Highlights of the day will be the long awaited launch of the PLAY Converse Sneaker together with a very special , highly exclusive, rather unique, limited edition PLAY T-Shirt as well as the debut of our very own fragrance aptly entitled Dover Street Market.
          We are also thrilled to present Roland Mouret's first ever mens collection and a collaboration between Victorinox Swiss Army Knife and DSM, including an edited selection of Victorinox clothing. You've got to at least pop in to get your free Comme des Garçons Fashion Night Out badges, a glass of something to drink and a sausage on a stick (vegetarian options available also) from Rose Bakery.
          Throughout the day, and especially in the evening, many of our designers will be attending to their spaces and trying to sell you their wares, personally. This includes Christopher Kane, Gareth Pugh, Stephen Jones, Peter Jensen, Hussein Chalayan, Marios Schwab and the boys from Peter Pilotto plus many, many more. Who knows who you might bump into!

          CORPORATE WHORES
          https://www.facebook.com/Marc.Stealth.Kaos

          Comment

          • Faust
            kitsch killer
            • Sep 2006
            • 37852

            #6
            You should tell that to Rei next time you see her.
            Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

            StyleZeitgeist Magazine

            Comment

            • STEALTH
              Senior Member
              • Feb 2008
              • 250

              #7
              Originally posted by Faust View Post
              You should tell that to Rei next time you see her.
              I generally stay out of that part of town

              Way too fkkng glam 80z for me
              https://www.facebook.com/Marc.Stealth.Kaos

              Comment

              • Fuuma
                Senior Member
                • Sep 2006
                • 4050

                #8
                If you go to Barneys you can meet Thom Browne and other NYC luminaries. In Paris you can can styling cues from Roitfeld. They should have called it "the night fashion sinks to street peddling". I'll thankfully be in transit and will miss everything.
                Selling CCP, Harnden, Raf, Rick etc.
                http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums...me-other-stuff

                Comment

                • philip nod
                  Senior Member
                  • Aug 2007
                  • 5903

                  #9
                  they givin' out handjobs?

                  One wonders where it will end, when everything has become gay.

                  Comment

                  • mass
                    Senior Member
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 1131

                    #10
                    kris van assche will be at barneys signing dior sneakers

                    wish i could join you for that, faust

                    Comment

                    • Faust
                      kitsch killer
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 37852

                      #11
                      I'll be there with my sword.
                      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                      Comment

                      • merkuri
                        Senior Member
                        • Sep 2009
                        • 517

                        #12
                        a mick jones portrait or some such bs is not getting me to spend money i don't have. all these major marketing minds came up with what are the ed hardy of ideas. carpet bomb the city with a one night 40% discount if you want people to spend $.

                        Comment

                        • snafu
                          Senior Member
                          • Apr 2008
                          • 2135

                          #13
                          hahaha yeh i get your feeling. the whole idea is pretty awful
                          browns is doing a similar thing as the designers run the shop, should make them work their ass off running about, trying on as much stuff as possible.

                          so i'll see you there at 8 ;)

                          Originally posted by STEALTH View Post
                          I generally stay out of that part of town

                          Way too fkkng glam 80z for me
                          .

                          Comment

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