Collection Privee? v. Fiorentini + Baker v. N.D.C. made by hand, and other mid-priced footwear.

[Faust]

A lot of us cannot and/or do not want to spend the money on the likes of Carpe Diem and Poell. Therefore, I've decided to make this thread to serve the purpose of finding and rating alternatives. These "mid-priced" brands often operate in the same aesthetic vein. Having had footwear by all brands, I decided to grade them. You can share your experiences with these here as well.

1. N.D.C. made by hand. This is an absolutely clear winner for me. They are much better made than the rest. I have two pairs of boots, one of which I have worn extensively, and they are holding up splendidly.

2. Officine Creative. So far so good. I have worn my boots all summer and most of the fall, almost every day. They are well made, but not as good as N.D.C.

3. Collection Privee? Also solidly made.

4. Fiorentini + Baker. I was not impressed with these. One pair of shoes I had lasted a year, and by the end it looked like one of the finer Margiela offerings (meaning, they looked like they just came out of a dumster)

In general, the latter three are inferior to N.D.C. There is one detail on all them (except N.D.C.) that irks me - it's the half-assed job on the insole. All of the insoles had in some way become unglued and scrunched inside. I will be sticking with N.D.C. from now on.

There are also a few other brands with which I have no experience - Buttero, Premiata, etc.

[drexl]

Re: Collection Privee? v. Fiorentini + Baker v. N.D.C. made by hand, and other mid-priced footwear.



N.D.C. - I have a pair of distressed oxfords, very nicely made, goodyear welted. Very comfortable too, def. my fave pair of "dressy" shoes that I own so far.

Officine Creative - Had a pair of C-Diem-ish boots (same as Faust), leather upper completely ripped after wearing 4-5 times. Maybe I just got a fluke, but I definitely won't be going anywhere near OC's in the future.

Buttero - Had a pair of Dior (made by Buttero) zip-up army boots, nicely made too (quality zipper, factory installed rubber sole over leather). Only thing that irked me was the shape of insole (the arch of the foot felt a bit wierd to me, very uncomfortable unless I added a gel insole). Or maybe I just have wierd feet.

[Jorge Hache]

Re: Collection Privee? v. Fiorentini + Baker v. N.D.C. made by hand, and other mid-priced footwear.



I have two pairs of Premiatas, both are handmade in italy with a good construction. One with wooden sole, one with rubber. I wear them a lot, especially the rubber soles ones (black woven leather ankle boots) and with more than two years have hold up very well.

Also own a pair of Collection Privee?, nice pair, nice construction, so far so good

As Faust said, NDC are a very good option, and maybe the best run for the money

[Divo]

Re: Collection Privee? v. Fiorentini + Baker v. N.D.C. made by hand, and other mid-priced footwear.



I can second Gutpocho´s opinion on Premiata: I own myself a pair of dark/blue cordovan loafers and are very well constructed (goodyear if I am not mistaken) - and an excellent quality leather used for both the shell as the sole. I think Yoox has once in a while (for F/W?) some good models available.

- Divo -

[bakla]

Re: Collection Privee? v. Fiorentini + Baker v. N.D.C. made by hand, and other mid-priced footwear.



I own 7 pairs of NDC shoes, including some from their initial collections. The older ones have the main problem faust complained about, in that the insoles have come unglued, but the newer ones do not. Otherwise, I think their quality is absolutely awesome, added to the fact that they are perhaps some of the most comfortable shoes I own, hence my owning so many pairs. Plus their lasts are amazingly forward yet style-resilient, enduring longer than shapes from other brands and makes that I own.

I have only one pair of boots from Collection Privée? and they're my go-to shoes when I'm dressing in a more arte povera manner. The distressing is really well done and I actually prefer the last to all the more expensive brands that SZers prefer.

[soultek]

Re: Collection Privee? v. Fiorentini + Baker v. N.D.C. made by hand, and other mid-priced footwear.



I've got a pair of Fiorentini + Baker boots and oxford type shoes. I think for the money they're decent (both around 350$ I think?). The rubber on the bottom of my boots has been peeling back a little prematurely, and I very quickly had to replace the laces. They look pretty beat and I get a lot of complements on them (especially from SA's). I like them okay except that they're damn uncomfortable for the front of my foot. I've since stuck a Tacco insole in them and they're better. My oxfords are a little more comfortable but the sole feels a little flimsy, I prefer something very solid feeling (like my carpe diems).

I recently picked up the Ann D. oxford/boot shoes from this past season. I think they qualify for mid priced since i've seen these shoes in the 400$ range a lot (either on sale or on Ebay). Wore them out once and I like them a lot, they are pretty comfortable. We'll see how they hold up in the NYC winter. Anyone knows who makes her shoes?

I didn't know Buttero makes Dior boots? (unless I read that post wrong)

[soultek]

Re: Collection Privee? v. Fiorentini + Baker v. N.D.C. made by hand, and other mid-priced footwear.

btw, who carries NDC in NYC? Barney's doesn't have em to my memory.

[bakla]

Re: Collection Privee? v. Fiorentini + Baker v. N.D.C. made by hand, and other mid-priced footwear.



[quote user="soultek"]btw, who carries NDC in NYC? Barney's doesn't have em to my memory.
[/quote]

Barneys Madison does, in the Co-op area.

[drexl]

Re: Collection Privee? v. Fiorentini + Baker v. N.D.C. made by hand, and other mid-priced footwear.

[quote user="soultek"]

I didn't know Buttero makes Dior boots? (unless I read that post wrong)

[/quote]

Yeah, Buttero does the boots for Dior. Not sure if they make all the footwear, but the boots/shoes are def. Buttero.

[Faust]

Re: Collection Privee? v. Fiorentini + Baker v. N.D.C. made by hand, and other mid-priced footwear.

[quote user="bakla"]

I own 7 pairs of NDC shoes, including some from their initial collections. The older ones have the main problem faust complained about, in that the insoles have come unglued, but the newer ones do not. Otherwise, I think their quality is absolutely awesome, added to the fact that they are perhaps some of the most comfortable shoes I own, hence my owning so many pairs. Plus their lasts are amazingly forward yet style-resilient, enduring longer than shapes from other brands and makes that I own.

I have only one pair of boots from Collection Privée? and they're my go-to shoes when I'm dressing in a more arte povera manner. The distressing is really well done and I actually prefer the last to all the more expensive brands that SZers prefer.

[/quote]

Completely forgot to comment on the comfort factor. N.D.C. wins here as well - I can walk in these all day.

[pbt]

Re: Collection Privee? v. Fiorentini + Baker v. N.D.C. made by hand, and other mid-priced footwear.



Interesting thread.

I've been fairly happy with F&B with a couple of caveats. I've got a lace-up military boot and a side zip boot. Both similar in shape,kind ofutilitarian elegant. The lace-ups I wear frequently (to work) and I have the same complaint as Soultek about the front of the foot getting a bit sore after a few hours in them. Haven't tried insolesyet. Faust I'm not sure if this is what you're referring to or not with your F&B, but the leather on my lace-upslost its luster pretty quickly. I haven't tried polishing them or anything to remedy that. Aside from those complaints these are standing up really well after a year or more of frequent wear (laces holding up great as well). I have no complaints at all with my zip-ups. They're perfectly comfortable front and back (the sole is built up a little more than on the lace-ups and higher at the front I believe) and they still look good six months on (though I don't wear them all that often).

I'd like to introduce Marsell into the mix. From an aesthetic point of view I mostly don't like Marsells,generally they seem overdesigned to me. The odd one looks really good though. I have two pair, a plain black slip on boot which I wear frequently and a distressed oxford. I've done some walking and serious standing in both and the comfort is amazing. The black boot looks great(a lot better thanmy F&B lace-ups) after a ton of wear and with only the occasional chamois-up. Very impressed with the Marsell.

Just picked up a pair of Officine Creative shoes, nice black distressed laceups, for work. Look great but haven't worn them yet.

[Chinorlz]

Re: Collection Privee? v. Fiorentini + Baker v. N.D.C. made by hand, and other mid-priced footwear.



faust and others, what are you experiences with the Moma boots? I kinda regret not pulling the trigger on those CDiem lookalikes that show up on yoox every so often.

I figure those would be in this discussion as well since they definitely are an inexpensive alternative to super-high end footwear options.

[Piffen]

Re: Collection Privee? v. Fiorentini + Baker v. N.D.C. made by hand, and other mid-priced footwear.



Would also like some opinion on Moma, been thinking of getting a pair.

[jowaha]

Re: Collection Privee? v. Fiorentini + Baker v. N.D.C. made by hand, and other mid-priced footwear.

I purchased a pair of F+B zip-up rouched boots earlier this year and they've been holding up fine so far. However, I have a decent number of boots to rotate through and they aren't worn more than a few times/week. Very comfortable so far. Officine Creative makes a nice shoe for a decent price, but the one pair of boots that I have experience with will probably not hold up long b/c of the soft leather used. Just got an awesome pair of MiharaYasuhiro that feels destined to survive centuries of wear and they fit like a glove, although they're already creeping up into the CD and CCP price range, unless on sale.

[RADO]

Re: Collection Privee? v. Fiorentini + Baker v. N.D.C. made by hand, and other mid-priced footwear.

Hi guys,

Must say NDC is number one for all the middle price rangebrandI wore. They give you a nice look and quality has not remarks. F+B collections have always disappointed me. They try hard but their style and construction?.I don?t know. Marsell, I agree they are somehow over-designed but the quality is excellent though prices exceed the middle price range,average over 430 euros. Have never tried the others brand or really see their collections.