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Wish it was another Barrett instead, the one that starts with a Z!
Barrett?s Big Plans
Jan. 16, 2008
MILAN
? New retailing projects, a structured expansion in the Asian market,
and the launch of an accessories line for men and women are some of
Neil Barrett?s priorities this year.
In two weeks, the British designer will also launch what he defines as
a ?mono-product? women?s collection made with men?s fabrics: trousers
and shirts based on his men?s line and produced by the same
manufacturer in charge of that division, which will evolve season after
season with slight variations. ?These will be men?s pants with
different shapes and fits for those women who are looking for a
masculine touch [in their clothes],? said Barrett, whose reputation is
built on well-cut, tailored suits and absence of frills. (sounds pretty cool, but isn't it already evident in his womens collection and unisex presentation?)
To underscore the increasing relevance of his women?s line, Barrett
showed eight women?s looks for fall on his runway during Milan men?s
fashion week here on Sunday. The designer headed Prada men?s wear until
1999, when he launched his first namesake men?s line.
Over the past two and a half years, Barrett has been growing his women?s line, which today accounts for 27 percent of sales.
While strictly abiding to his ?one thing at a time? mantra, the
designer will be expanding his brand through a line of handbags and
small leather goods to bow for spring/summer 2009, produced by a web of
specialized manufacturers. (these actually might have some pretty good twists)
Barrett said he has signed an agreement with PMD Japan, which will
start distributing his brand in Japan with the fall/ winter 2008
season. The first step will be the opening of a store in Tokyo?s Aoyama
district in August.? Over the next five years, PMD Japan will also help
Barrett open his first boutique in Hong Kong, and other flagship stores
and corners in a number of Asian markets. That said, Barrett said he
planned to continue working with independent stores such as Lane
Crawford and Joyce, for example, where business was ?fantastic.?
Despite Japan?s current lackluster economy, Barrett was pleased with
that country?s performance, noting that Japan is his second largest
market, after Italy. ?We?ve seen incredible sell-throughs of about 75
percent in Japan, and excellent sales, so this is the right time to
expand there for us,? said Barrett. Japanese customers are ?very
supportive? and buy more into the ?fashion part? of the collections,
with a ?great level of taste,? according to the designer.
The boutique in Aoyama, close to Prada?s, will cover 4,320 square feet
and will debut Barrett?s new store concept, designed with an
internationally renowned architect, whose name is still under wraps.
?He?s fantastic,? said Barrett, who already counts a store in Osaka.
The new Aoyama store will replace a smaller existing one in the same
area. The line is also currently available at 450 points of sale around
the world. The designer?s footwear line, produced in-house, is also
carried at 300 specialty stores globally.
Barrett also plans to open his first U.S. store in Los Angeles by the
end of the year. ?We have so many different fits,? said the designer.
?Our own stores will help us show the collection in its entirety.?
The company registered sales of 52 million euros, or $77 million, in
2007, a 35 percent increase compared to the previous year. For 2008,
the designer estimated sales of 68 million euros, or $100.6 million at
current exchange. (pretty damn good)
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