Narciso?s Men?s Line on Hiatus
Jan. 28, 2008
NEW
YORK ? Narciso Rodriguez has placed his small but acclaimed men?s wear
line on hold and has not produced a collection for fall 2008. A men?s
collection would have been shown during New York Fashion Week alongside
his women?s wear.
The hiatus from men?s wear is only temporary, i.e., a season or two,
Rodriguez told DNR last week. But for now, he and his partners at Liz
Claiborne, which bought a 50 percent stake in his company for $12
million last May, want to focus on expanding women?s wear with
precollections and a larger accessories offering. At the time of the
purchase, the cash infusion from Liz was seen as a catalyst to, among
other things, beef up the men?s business. Rodriguez insists this is
still the case.
?I met with [Claiborne CEO] Bill McComb in December and asked his
opinion, and he was so positive about men?s wear and about doing it
better, later,? the designer said. But this season Rodriguez is in the
throes of relocating, restructuring and bringing licenses back
in-house, ?and the sheer growth of my company since my partnership with
Claiborne is overwhelming in so many areas. We want to do things
properly because what we do now is a foundation for the future.?
He continued: ?Once I saw what bringing women?s in-house entailed, I
didn?t want the core business to suffer by being spread too thin. And
then it was a godsend, after late fabric deliveries this season and so
on. I can speak for all New York designers right now. We?re very, very
frustrated because we can?t do our work to its vast potential, because
there isn?t time. The show season is so short that there?s barely
enough time to do a proper women?s collection. We had to think about
whether to present a few things, done quickly, or [put a hold on men?s]
and do something bigger and better in the future. It?s taking a step
back to take two steps forward. Getting into the right women?s wear
factories and looking for places that make things the way we want them
made has been a real process. And I want the same for the men?s wear.
There?s just too much going on to do both.?
Rodriguez has only offered men?s wear for five seasons, and the line
was small, but it was highly regarded and seen as a natural extension
of his aesthetic. His work in general is recognized for its roots in
tailoring, its precise, body-conscious construction and its athletic
influence. Men?s was only sold in Barneys New York because that was
about all the operation could handle, Rodriguez said. Barneys was
saddened by the hiatus but agreed it was a wise decision, said the
designer, adding that once a structure is in place he?ll be happy to
work with many more retailers.
A signature fragrance for men debuted in July, augmenting the brand?s relevance to men.
?I?m very passionate about it, and we?ve cultivated a fan base,? Rodriguez said. ?I?m passionate and very serious about it.?