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this ones for you albert!
ok for starters youd need a last in your size and a desired shape- the shape of the last determines the shape/outcome of the pair of shoes.
#2- there are several ways to do this, this is one way.. to make a pattern you get some adhesive film and wrap the last evenly in such a way that you dont have any bubbles and the film covers every part of the shoe. now you have a 3-D perspective of patterning shoes.. You should have marked your axis lines on the shoes.
#3 you can draw/mark on the desired pattern carefully on half the last if it is symmetrical etc.. you will also have to determine your lining pattern and also trace the insole pattern(from the last)
#4 cut and peel off the marked panels.. and transfer to cardboard...you now have your patterns ready to be clicked
clicking is kind of tricky...the leather needs to be cut PERFECTLY using a knife or roller cutter or laser for those high tech equipped :P
you will have to cut
1 pair insole pattern in insole leather (natural thick yet somewhat pliable) calfhide
a pair of the patterns for the shoes(including lining)
1 pair toepuff (this has to be cut out of special toepuff material - or leather for bespoke nazi's- the leather would need to be scyved heavily)
1 Pair heel counters (same material as above)
the latter 2 would have to be scyved...this means the edges need to be shaved with a knife or scyving machine.
#5 Machining the shoes
now to machine shoes is a very tricky job... not only do u need the right machine, you also need to prepare the patterns for sewing.
The edges need to be scyved(thinned out) and you will have to glue them together as you lay them on top( there arent really any seam allowances in shoes)
now youd have to sew the lining and the upper separately first and then youd have to join them together at the heel
#6 ok so the upper and the lining are put together and ready to be lasted
you will need... your last, a last stand(which u place ur last upside down on), your insole patterns and scyved toepuffs and heelcounters, glue and tiny tacks.
- Wet your insole patterns with some water and tack on the bottom of your last (this would have to be pressed using a special shoe press)
- once thats done you dust your last with talcum powder..
- now you place your last on the stand and you have to last the lining first... the process is too tricky to explain in text..its basically pulling and turning ur pliers and gluing it over the insole and you use tacks where u have to (temporarily)
- you glue the toepuffs and heel counter onto the lining(kinda like sandwiching them between the upper and the lining)
- now you pull and glue the last in
- you will notice some gaps when you are looking at your insole..fill them up with some spare leather
#7 you will need a metal shank now
- place the shank right at the centre of the insole( this is the core of your shoe...the part of you foot that is softest...just near the ball of your heel)
- cut out a groove in the shape of the shank
- glue the shank in there - and HAMMER in)
place the cut out bit and glue over shank
PHEW...now ur almost there
#8 you now need Sole leather ( Id use vero cuio leather or better
- then you glue them and wait till its kinda dry
now with your shoes...(remeber that they should obviously be laced at stage 6), you could either prepare it for randing(what looks like the stitching in the grooves of your soles... preparing involves sanding around the edges(PERFECTLY) and sanding the randing(you can purchase this)
then you glue the randing onto the edge of the shoes....you finish off the randing and the centre of the instep. now
u have to place them in a low oven for abt half an hour
- now ur soles are ready to be glued onto the shoes
#9 you glue the sole onto the shoe...you will notice that it is different to the pattern of your shoes..
you have to shape it..
now using a sharp blade(need to be super sharp) u have to slice the excess leather ( this is extremely difficult for newbies) off the shoes and make it even with the randing.
now u have to smooth it down using fine sandpaper( hard work)
you are almost there
#10
heel
you can buy pre made heels to suit your last shape.. i cant think of any contacts right away..
either that or you can build your own stack heel...( i prefer the latter- looks better if u do it right)
presume you got a readymade heel.. you rough the side of the heel you stick to the shoe
glue and place carefully on the heel area(which needs to be roughed with sandpaper too)
now u drill some holes in the insole 3-5 holes... and you hammer some nails in there so the heel wont fall off.
now you can either put an insole sock in the shoe or leave it unfinished for that CCP look.
your soles have to be finished
Using a special machine...you would have do blake stitch(this holds the shoe together for longer life) and this will leave a groove open with the stiches concealed...you glue and hammer the groove in..you will see a thin line... you shoe is 95% complete
u will need some dye/stain...depending on the desired colour. using a flat brush you can ink the sole.
voila shoe done!
ok i know i dont have pictures but i hope i have described the process clearly... i was in quite a rush but i can answer any questions when im on next..
hope this helps with all your shoemaking doubts... the above techniques is the bespoke method...there are some more things but this is the basic.
cheers
V
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