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  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37852

    New Jil Sander Store Review



    Verdict - cold and expensive.







    IN the beginning, at the new Jil Sander
    store, there was nothing, and it was good. It was clean, German and
    perfect; a high, white space tiled with four-foot slabs of Carrara
    marble and a wall of vertical mirrors rotating slowly for a wavy
    Venetian-blind effect, like that once used on ?The Price Is Right.?






    Greg Scaffidi for The New York Times









    Then there was the word (on
    the street), which said that the beautiful nothing should be ashamed
    because it lacked clothing. And so there came to be mannequins:
    headless women standing on white blocks in a straight military row down
    the center of the space, wearing knee-length sleeveless dresses in
    wools of exquisite quality and design.



    One black dress, covered
    in microscopic, weeping polka dots, had pin-tucks at the waist that
    acrobatically flipped inside-out to become vertical eye-shape details
    at the bust. Another curved hourglass waistline in gray flannel became
    the pistil for a built-in protective tulip of a shoulder cape.



    A
    creation in midnight blue had, running its length, stitched seam
    details of a type ordinarily reserved for faux pockets on men?s tuxedo
    jackets; these pockets, however, instead of yielding to silky inlets,
    were lined with what looked like the shattered safety glass of a
    Baccarat windshield, forcing the viewer to ask, ?Is it beauty or is it
    violence??



    It was very J.G. Ballard, and good.



    After
    spending an intense period of isolation and despair, wondering when
    help might arrive, one discovers the white marble staircase by which
    one is granted the power to ascend bodily to an even higher room of
    nearly blinding luminosity.



    Much like Immanuel Kant?s ?Critique
    of Pure Reason,? Jil Sander?s creations were too ahead of their time to
    be greeted with critical enthusiasm when they were trotted out on the
    runway in the 1980s, amid the lurid pink poufs and sateen trophy-wife
    frippery that prevailed. Her collections of chilly, boxy office-wear,
    engineered with all the necessary equipment for an accelerated rise to
    power in a world of low glass ceilings, were not fully appreciated
    until the 1990s, when women?s shopping habits evolved to more fully
    embrace their roles in boardrooms, as well as their bedrooms.



    Ms. Sander greatly admired Coco Chanel, who once commented that elegance was the ?absence of vulgarity.? Under Raf Simons,
    who has been designing the label since 2005, the Jil Sander line now
    allows a bit more than just absence in Sander?s starkly perfect void.
    The new looks maintain a distinct reverence for the modern severity for
    which Jil Sander became immortal in certain power circles, but they are
    a little less butch and conservative, a little more femme and
    body-conscious. Jil Sander clothing still has no sense of humor, but it
    may now find your joke amusing.



    She may now permit, perhaps reluctantly, a tasteful application of lipstick.



    The
    garments, arranged with great care at equal distances, are industrious,
    no-nonsense cuts on a strict solid-color diet of teal, navy, black,
    gray and magenta. These valuable wardrobe tools work productively
    because great thought, diligence and mathematical precision has gone
    into their styling.



    Because you are terrified to touch the
    clothing, the store is fortunate to have a handsome salesman, Paul
    Silva, who is exceedingly kind and supplied a variety of intelligent
    selections in Size 34. I was tempted by a deliriously soft, belted
    camel overcoat with an extra kimono collar ($2,345). It was flawed only
    in that German girls who wear Size 34 seem to have arm spans the
    breadth of great condors.



    The dressing room was conceptual; it
    was simply not there, an open white area of mirrors and light without
    form. Mr. Silva abruptly moved a large white wall, suddenly caging me
    into a doorless hexagonal dressing apparatus where I was forced to
    confront myself on all sides with excruciating clarity.



    I beat my fists against the mirrors and shouted in my best Patrick McGoohan accent, ?I am not a number, I am a free man!?



    Mr. Silva was pitiless.



    I
    first tried a black, shapeless cowl-neck shroud in silk jersey ($575),
    something I thought Tilda Swinton might wear triumphantly to the
    funeral of someone she had killed. It felt like slipping into cool
    water, looked flattering and forgiving worn both correctly and
    backward. With a proper belt, it would be ideal for round-the-clock
    poolside meetings with chief financial officers, especially if I were
    30 pounds heavier.



    The highly pleasing wool skirts fit perfectly.
    I admired a black just-above-the-knee basic with a large pleat draping
    diagonally across the front ($675); a fetching, nubby blue plaid skirt
    was responsible, desirable and even (gasp) a bit sexy, but was beyond my weak buying power at $1,045.



    I
    was keen to try a gray wool suit with purple pinstripes ($3,875).
    Sadly, it was a harsh reminder of my physical puniness; the jacket was
    large enough to have been tailored by Paula Poundstone.



    One
    zippered shirtdress was a brilliant co-opting of male luxury tailoring.
    The tuxedo-pocket seams were back, now swerving like an autobahn up the
    hips and bust, and repeated in two faux pockets slanted above the bosom
    and two more slanted down at the hip. It had velocity, verve and
    magnetism. I looked shapely and iconic, yet professional and
    respectable. I was the People?s Hood Ornament! I loved the dress, but
    was not worthy of it ($2,175).



    LIKE a mother who is stern and
    correct, if not terribly affectionate, Jil Sander sacrifices a great
    deal to prepare you for a corporate world she finds coarse and
    potentially dangerous. These garments are your Valkyrie breastplate,
    serving as both protection and dazzle camouflage in battles of the
    sexes and otherwise. They reveal in no uncertain terms that unless you
    have personally mastered the exquisite discipline of not needing to
    look at the sticker price, you still have a great deal of work to do.



    But
    a mother need not be particularly warm to prepare you to achieve
    greatness beyond measure. She must, however, be extremely sharp.



    Don?t touch my collar, little boy, you?ll cut yourself. Give Mommy the keys, we?re going to Washington.



    JIL SANDER



    30 Howard Street (at Crosby Street); (212) 925-2345.



    THE WANTS Like a lady doctor, Jil Sander
    really knows the clinical tricks of how to fit a female shape. If the
    store seems a bit cold, you must understand that these garments find
    public life a painful intrusion.



    THE TAUNTS They
    aren?t looking down on you, these clothes, they are just naturally
    austere. The sales clerks, however, are so welcoming and pleasantly
    human as to be a tacit apology for the wholly intimidating perfection
    of the store.



    THE EXISTENTIAL PANTS
    There is also a nice men?s wear section, featuring brighter reds,
    pegged pants and a microfiber car coat in a faux marble camo print that
    looks primed and ready for combat in both museums and finer hotel men?s
    rooms.



    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine
  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37852

    #2
    Re: New Jil Sander Store Review



    I think the store is a total oxymoron. It's got severe upper east side interior coupled with a distinctly downtown exterior, not to mention its rather strange location (ok, i could see it on west broadway, but here?)



    BTW, merz, could this be the coat you are looking for?



    "I was tempted by a deliriously soft, belted camel overcoat with an extra kimono collar ($2,345). "

    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

    Comment

    • iSuck
      Senior Member
      • Mar 2008
      • 536

      #3
      Re: New Jil Sander Store Review

      [quote user="Faust"]


      I think the store is a total oxymoron. It's got severe upper east side interior coupled with a distinctly downtown exterior, not to mention its rather strange location (ok, i could see it on west broadway, but here?)




      [/quote]




      Re the Location: Apparently that block is going to "blow up" with a Mondrian hotel and a few other designer boutiques.




      Re the Design: I think of the UES as being very clubby and Ralph which is not evident in this store at all. The bottom cathedral/conservatory and rotating mirror wall I think are very downtown/SoHo/West Chelsea gallery space.




      Re the Clothing: Given the size this is aiming at being a much more edited/runway/ad campaigncollection of the clothing. The Madison Ave. store will still carry more accessories, tailored clothing, made to measure, etc. I find myself going to both of them; but, they are also very linked in that when I was at Madison the marble shirt I wanted was in SoHo. They offered to have it for me at Madison in 30 min; but, I opted to go down myself as I was already in the area.

      Comment

      • Rubbish
        • Jul 2008
        • 17

        #4
        Re: New Jil Sander Store Review



        I had to stop and take some time to reflect on the fact that Paula Poundstone was mentioned in an article about Jil Sander.



        It's also always nice to see the sales associates given a thumbs up. Everyone I've dealt with at the Chicago Store has been fantastic. One of the guys, Jef (I think he spells it with one F), is probably my favorite sales associate in the city.

        Comment

        • Real Real
          Senior Member
          • Feb 2007
          • 619

          #5
          Re: New Jil Sander Store Review

          I thought the space was really cool and that the people were nice. I was surprised at how small the space is that is actually devoted to racks of clothing.



          After leaving the JS store downtown, I briefly thought "Fuck it, I should just simplify and buy Jil Sander from now on". I really detest the Spring '09 collection, though.

          Comment

          • iSuck
            Senior Member
            • Mar 2008
            • 536

            #6
            Re: New Jil Sander Store Review

            [quote user="Rubbish"]


            I had to stop and take some time to reflect on the fact that Paula Poundstone was mentioned in an article about Jil Sander.




            It's also always nice to see the sales associates given a thumbs up. Everyone I've dealt with at the Chicago Store has been fantastic. One of the guys, Jef (I think he spells it with one F), is probably my favorite sales associate in the city.




            [/quote]




            It's Jef with 1 F and he has been with Jil for 12 years and is a total NUT when it comes to it. Everything I had on at the party and the day after he knew by the model name.




            On Crosby St. the younger Asian guy named Billy has been a pleasure to work with. They have one guy who came from Jeffery and he is a little pushy; but, I think that was the way he was trained working in that septic tank.

            Comment

            • iSuck
              Senior Member
              • Mar 2008
              • 536

              #7
              Re: New Jil Sander Store Review



              And then I went across the street to OC which had 7 associates and 2 customers and had wanted to throw up looking/listening to them.

              Comment

              • Purity
                Senior Member
                • Apr 2007
                • 239

                #8
                Re: New Jil Sander Store Review

                Off topic: What is Jil doing now anyway? Wonder what she thinks about Raf and the direction the brand is taking..

                Comment

                • ionn26
                  Senior Member
                  • Feb 2007
                  • 488

                  #9
                  Re: New Jil Sander Store Review

                  yes It is Jef.. he has been with Jil sander for 12 years.. and yes he goes nut over it.. he is actually very very experienced in other brands as well. I like the Jil sander Store in Chicago, but I wish they do a bigger buy for the Jil Sander line. The line is never as good say compare to Asia. But then you pay a premium in Asia with custom charges and all. Honestly when we thought the price is outrages. The same jacket that is selling now in Jil sander with a high neck.... that is priced around 1900 USD.. it is easily 3600USD in Asia and Oceania.. talk about non-competition huh? I guess that is also the reason why the stores in Asia carry more stuff I guess they can make more money out of it...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: New Jil Sander Store Review

                    my prediction is that, within a year, the first floor of the howard street store will become the women's dept, and the second floor, men's. no way they can make rent with a first floor museum.

                    Comment

                    • mesh
                      Senior Member
                      • Dec 2006
                      • 976

                      #11
                      Re: New Jil Sander Store Review



                      [quote user="Real Real"]After leaving the JS store downtown, I briefly thought "Fuck it, I should just simplify and buy Jil Sander from now on".[/quote]




                      That's real, I really do love the line and all of what I have and my favorite now along with lanvin afterveronique took a dive.

                      Comment

                      • iSuck
                        Senior Member
                        • Mar 2008
                        • 536

                        #12
                        Re: New Jil Sander Store Review



                        [quote user="xadam"]my prediction is that, within a year, the first floor of the howard street store will become the women's dept, and the second floor, men's. no way they can make rent with a first floor museum.
                        [/quote]




                        The store is a "loss leader", it's about image and not about making rent.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: New Jil Sander Store Review

                          [quote user="iSuck"]

                          [quote user="xadam"]my prediction is that, within a year, the first floor of the howard street store will become the women's dept, and the second floor, men's. no way they can make rent with a first floor museum.
                          [/quote]




                          The store is a "loss leader", it's about image and not about making rent.



                          [/quote]



                          not sure if i buy that. they vacated the 57th st space because of rent, no?

                          Comment

                          • Faust
                            kitsch killer
                            • Sep 2006
                            • 37852

                            #14
                            Re: New Jil Sander Store Review

                            [quote user="iSuck"][quote user="Faust"]


                            I think the store is a total oxymoron. It's got severe upper east side interior coupled with a distinctly downtown exterior, not to mention its rather strange location (ok, i could see it on west broadway, but here?)




                            [/quote]




                            Re the Location: Apparently that block is going to "blow up" with a Mondrian hotel and a few other designer boutiques.




                            Re the Design: I think of the UES as being very clubby and Ralph which is not evident in this store at all. The bottom cathedral/conservatory and rotating mirror wall I think are very downtown/SoHo/West Chelsea gallery space.




                            Re the Clothing: Given the size this is aiming at being a much more edited/runway/ad campaigncollection of the clothing. The Madison Ave. store will still carry more accessories, tailored clothing, made to measure, etc. I find myself going to both of them; but, they are also very linked in that when I was at Madison the marble shirt I wanted was in SoHo. They offered to have it for me at Madison in 30 min; but, I opted to go down myself as I was already in the area.



                            [/quote]



                            Not when it comes to high-end shopping. It's cold and over-polished, just like this store. When I think of Soho/West Chelsea gallery space, I think of IF boutique and Yohji Yamamoto, sparse and spacious, but nothing cold and polished about them. Those spaces are alive - the Jil Sander one looks like it's made for Madison Ave. polished drones.

                            Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                            StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                            Comment

                            • TypicalFashion
                              Senior Member
                              • Mar 2007
                              • 326

                              #15
                              Re: New Jil Sander Store Review

                              i checked it out last weekend. i was pretty disappointed with the staff. do they think they are going to catch the midlevel opening ceremony crowd heh

                              Comment

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