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Barneys expands its MTM business

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  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37852

    Barneys expands its MTM business

    From DNR

    Barneys’ Made-to-Measure Suite
    By JEAN E. PALMIERI
    Sept. 15, 2008

    NEW YORK — Barneys New York is creating a made-to-measure mecca at its Madison Avenue flagship.
    In a move that “reflects the changes in the business,” the luxury specialty store will today unveil a 1,100-square-foot suite on its seventh floor comprised of four rooms that are designed to capitalize on the explosive growth of this tailored clothing category.

    In the short term, sales are expected to increase 10 to 15 percent, and 5 to 10 percent a year after that, projected Tom Kalenderian, executive vice-president and GMM of men’s. “But that doesn’t factor in the extra business,” he noted. “The physical boutique will attract more attention.”

    Kalenderian said the floor hadn’t been renovated since the store opened in September of 1993. “We’re redeploying the space to fit the needs of the business as it has matured. We’re dedicating a significant amount of square footage to customized clothing.”

    Noting that this is “an area where no ready-to-wear will hang,” Kalenderian said this is “very new” for Barneys. “In the past, we would do made-to-measure at a desk within rtw,” he said. “But now there will be four independent spaces that are connected but not designed as one room.”

    The first “and most important,” he said, is the “library,” where customers can sit at a desk and sift through fabric choices “in a quiet, contained setting. It’s not behind closed doors; there’s a glass wall, so it’s private but you can still see in.”

    Next up is a lounge where friends and family can relax while the shopper is making his choices. This is followed by the dressing chambers, which are “more private and discreet; near the lounge but away from the traffic on the floor.”

    Last up is the home of the master tailor and head fitter. “He’s right on the other side of the wall,” Kalenderian said.

    “Everything works in concert to create the best shopping experience for the customer,” he said. “It’s really about customer service. It was a big decision to take square footage away from ready-to-wear. But this new step will enhance the customized clothing business.”

    Kalenderian believes the new suite will appeal to the existing made-to-measure customer and attract a new one as well. “The men who already shop there will spend more time because they’ll be less distracted and can concentrate. And other customers who walk by the suite will be intrigued and want to come in.”

    Kalenderian said that when the store opened, there were three floors of tailored clothing. The fourth centered on contemporary lines, while the sixth focused on traditional vendors and the seventh offered luxury clothing.

    But in 2002 the store revamped the offering, compressing clothing onto two floors—with contemporary and classic lines on six and luxury brands on seven. The fourth floor was converted to contemporary sportswear.

    “We needed more square footage for contemporary sportswear, so we consolidated tailored clothing into fewer brands,” he said. “But the editing of the business and resources actually allowed it to grow, so it was a positive process.”

    The made-to-measure suite will offer fabric books from Battistoni, Brioni, Canali, Zegna, Incotex, Isaia, Kiton and Lanvin 15 Faubourg.

    “This is just what the business needs,” Kalenderian said. “It’s important to be doing something different in an area that is viewed as classic. That doesn’t mean that it also can’t be modern.”

    He pointed out that in addition to the made-to-measure suite, the entire seventh floor is being renovated. That revamp of the part of the floor that includes Amani Collezioni, Battistoni, Canali, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Zegna, Isaia and Paul Smith is expected to be completed by the end of this week.
    Kalenderian pointed out that by capturing some unused space on the floor, the 5,500 square feet devoted to rtw has been retained. “It’s all part of the continued evolution of the building.”
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine
  • kunk75
    Banned
    • May 2008
    • 3364

    #2
    the current state of affairs on wall street makes this the perfect time for this (10)

    Comment

    • Faust
      kitsch killer
      • Sep 2006
      • 37852

      #3
      Originally posted by kunk75 View Post
      the current state of affairs on wall street makes this the perfect time for this (10)
      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

      Comment

      • kunk75
        Banned
        • May 2008
        • 3364

        #4
        ^haha. and the move into the meatpacking district is a good one too. between their plan and their buys, i can't imagine why they're up for sale every year or so.

        Comment

        • reborn
          Senior Member
          • Aug 2008
          • 833

          #5
          Are they trying to be more boutique and less department store? Louis Boston has the same setup...and they are closing shop at the end of 2009.

          How many MTM suits can you sell to a small population of people that can afford and have the taste for the service?
          Last edited by reborn; 09-16-2008, 06:16 PM. Reason: spelling error

          Comment

          • kunk75
            Banned
            • May 2008
            • 3364

            #6
            jil sander isn't moving many of their m to m.

            Comment

            • Faust
              kitsch killer
              • Sep 2006
              • 37852

              #7
              Originally posted by reborn View Post
              Are they trying to be more boutique and less department store? Louis Boston has the same setup...and they are closing shop at the end of 2009.

              How many MTM suits can you sell to a small population of people that can afford and have the taste for the service?
              Noooo, seriously?!
              Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

              StyleZeitgeist Magazine

              Comment

              • reborn
                Senior Member
                • Aug 2008
                • 833

                #8
                Originally posted by Faust View Post
                Noooo, seriously?!

                Sadly, LB cannot afford a lease renewal or do not want to renew at their current location (and I don't blame them...they are next to a victoria's secret, guess and H&M). So, word has it they are scouting sketchy parts of Beantown to create a "meat packing district/Jeffrey" situation.

                Still, LB does MTM with a bunch of exclusives...and most of their business is in the spring and then it's ghost town. I cannot imagine how Barneys will fair with the NYC climate.

                Comment

                • Faust
                  kitsch killer
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 37852

                  #9
                  Well, with all due respect, NYC ain't Boston. You've got rich foreigners, rich tourists, rich lawyers, rich advertising execs, rich artists and gallery owners, and rich publishers. But yea, I also think that they are overextending themselves. Although I'd love to see a Barneys in the current Louis space - I love the building, don't care who the neighbors are. I would hate to see this building become another Abercrombie.
                  Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                  StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                  Comment

                  • reborn
                    Senior Member
                    • Aug 2008
                    • 833

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Faust View Post
                    Well, with all due respect, NYC ain't Boston. You've got rich foreigners, rich tourists, rich lawyers, rich advertising execs, rich artists and gallery owners, and rich publishers. But yea, I also think that they are overextending themselves. Although I'd love to see a Barneys in the current Louis space - I love the building, don't care who the neighbors are. I would hate to see this building become another Abercrombie.
                    ...since bloomingdales is expanding it's soho concept shops to LA and DC, I imagine Federated would scoop up the location and fill it to the gills with seven jeans and polo ralph lauren with sprinkles of interesting designers.

                    Comment

                    • Faust
                      kitsch killer
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 37852

                      #11
                      Oh, right. God help us.
                      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                      Comment

                      • Fuuma
                        Senior Member
                        • Sep 2006
                        • 4050

                        #12
                        Great timing for this and the WSJ fashion weekly. The only way this will succeed is if they include finance job offers with every purchases.
                        Selling CCP, Harnden, Raf, Rick etc.
                        http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums...me-other-stuff

                        Comment

                        • reborn
                          Senior Member
                          • Aug 2008
                          • 833

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Fuuma View Post
                          Great timing for this and the WSJ fashion weekly. The only way this will succeed is if they include finance job offers with every purchases.
                          Sign me up!!! I could use the oversized bonus to purchase shoes.

                          Comment

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