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JCR List: Top Five Designers of 2008

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  • reborn
    Senior Member
    • Aug 2008
    • 833

    JCR List: Top Five Designers of 2008

    I don't know if I agree with the list from JCR...perhaps we can post our 5 designers/Labels for 2008. Mine will be up shortly.

    From JC report

    We've been globetrotting all year to bring you the most relevant fashion lifestyle news from every crevice of the planet. As we look forward to 2009, we bring you a series of "Top 5" lists looking back on an eventful 2008. From the Philippines to London, the first roundup features our top picks for the five best designers of the last year.


    Balmain
    French designer Christophe Decarnin may be shy, but his crystal encrusted mini dresses, Sgt. Pepper jackets over torn jeans and ragged-looking, leg-baring gowns for spring/summer '09 are anything but timid. In a moody Paris season that lacked a singular creative direction, Decarnin's 80s-inspired, rock 'n roll infused collection sizzled with an irresistible devil may care attitude that only impossibly cool Gallic girls can chicly pull off. It's little wonder the French Vogue girls—including editor-in-chief Carine Roitfeld—are fans.


    Bea Valdes
    It's no secret that accessories market is competitive, but the Philippines-based Bea Valdes came out of nowhere and sparkled like a rare gem. Ever since Valdes was featured in a 2005 American Vogue profile and on our virtual pages last year, her show-stopping, crystal-engulfed bags and oversize necklaces gained some serious traction. But this year, her wares rode the statement jewelry trend [9], and are now must have pieces at prestigious international retailers such as Podium in Moscow, Barneys in New York, Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong and Couturelab [10] online.


    Lanvin
    Arguably one of the greatest designers of our generation, Alber Elbaz [12] follows his own fashion rhythm, but never seems to skip a beat. In Paris, his collection for Lanvin's s/s '09 collection of rich fabrics and textures, undulating shapes and tempered decadence was a poetic outing that gorgeously captured the sober mood of the season. But his use of leopard prints and bold colors also gave women a reason to stay optimistic in these depressed economic times.


    Hoorsenbuhs
    High-end jewelry isn't all about overly marketed, flashy wares. Santa Monica-based Hoorsenbuhs is the prefect antidote those who prefer a quiet kind of luxury "by creating pieces notable for the inherent beauty of their raw materials rather than for their logos or megawatt bling." With a steady following among LA's tastemakers, this label's "intergity focus" design practice is yielding a unique chain link signature style on the cusp of breaking out.


    Nicholas Kirkwood
    Though only three years out of the gate, Nicholas Kirkwood is already considered fashion's go-to renaissance man. With Pollini, Rodarte and Alberta Ferretti collaborations under his belt, the London-based shoe designer has not only managed to win over his design contemporaries, but has also earned their respect. This year alone he took home Footwear News Designer of the Year Award and the Swarovski Emerging Talent Award at the British Fashion awards. Kirkwood's ascent has been a fast one, and Christian Louboutin and Manolo Blahnik better watch out. Nicholas Kirkwood is right on their vertiginous heels.
  • reborn
    Senior Member
    • Aug 2008
    • 833

    #2
    In no particular order:

    Mastermind Japan
    Ugo Cacciatori
    Label Under Construction
    Alexander McQueen
    Peachoo + Krejberg

    Comment

    • Jon
      Senior Member
      • Apr 2008
      • 677

      #3
      interesting choices, Reborn... makes me want to take another look at McQueen, LUC was good, but I'm not quite sold on their designs.

      I tend to keep to my own interests and mostly menswear, so maybe not many surprises here:

      Rick Owens - follow the leader! this was his year - Hedi Slimane status
      The Viridi-anne - F/W 08 was a breakthrough season for the supremely talented and humble japanese designer
      Yves Saint Laurent - IMO the best men's designer working in the 'lux' market
      Lanvin - very solid, but Alber Elbaz as "Arguably one of the greatest designers of our generation"?
      Yohji Yamamoto - huge comeback for him this season I feel. He was represented strongly at Atelier, and had a good reception to his work at Y-3 and his new shop.

      Hon. Mention:
      Raf Simons - S/S 08 was pretty wild. F/W was a bit meh, but more than anything he gets props from me for his work at Jil Sander. I think his womenswear is terribly underrated and has taken the brand to new heights.
      Originally posted by merz
      perhaps one day pipcleo will post a wywt so non-euclydian & eldrich in its shapes as to turn all onlookers into throngs of dishevelled, muttering idiots

      Comment

      • Casius
        Senior Member
        • Dec 2006
        • 4772

        #4
        My picks:

        Junya Watanabe- For women's wear only. I thought his SS08 collection was nice but his FW08 collection was incredible. The silhouettes are amazing and it showed me what the man is truly capable of.

        Rick Owens- So on point for Women's wear and I think the Men's was up there as well. He's taking a bit more risks with the Menswear and it looks as though it will steamroll into '09. Palais Royal was very good as well; Overall I feel he is one of the most well rounded designers today.

        Ann Demeulemeester- Her SS08 collection was hit or miss but her Fall collection was amazing (for men and women). I felt there was a lot of heart put into the collections and it showed in the clothing. She's only getting better, I feel.

        Yohji Yamamoto- The mainline collection for women in Fall was absolutely jaw dropping and the Men's is always consistent. He always finds a way to refresh his aesthetic and it never comes off as boring.

        Thom Browne- I still think there is a lot of relevance in what he does and although it all seems rather theatrical, he does crank out a very well made product. With an extension on his Brooks Brothers contract, I think we're going to still see a lot of creativity in '09 and beyond.

        Honorable (some may find it weird) mention:
        Alexander Wang- While I don't think he's breaking any ground with his collections, he has made a very fast name for himself in fashion. His ability to create clothing that women fawn over is something I think has to be commended. Now I don't think he holds the same ideals as the designers listed above (I think he just designs with the intention of a look and not necessarily a feeling) but I still feel he has quite a bit of talent.
        "because the young are whores. dealers come to carol to get the rock"

        Comment

        • reborn
          Senior Member
          • Aug 2008
          • 833

          #5
          Awesome choices Jon and Cassius. YY is a favorite every season. The Mikimoto collab almost pushed him on my 2008 favorites (though that stuff released '07). I also vascillated on TB.

          ...any thoughts on Lucas Ossendrijver for Lanvin mens?

          Comment

          • Pinoy
            Senior Member
            • Dec 2006
            • 661

            #6
            Junya Watanabe– I'm with Cas on this one– FW08 womenswear was absolutely breathtaking!

            Rick Owens– I guess I'm terribly late to the party, but its only very recently that I've really started admiring Rick's work. I've always found his earlier collections too sportswear-influenced but ss08 creatch and fw08 stag hit the sweetspot :) im a bit worried about ss09 though.. heh

            The Viridi-Anne– found out about them in FW07 and have always been big fan of his work. TVA FW08 was my fave collection of the season

            Haider Ackerman– always puts out awesome dramatic clothing with incredible fabrics.. when will he start a menswear line? :D

            hmmm...can't really think of #5.. Yohji? MMM? Geller?

            Comment

            • casem
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2006
              • 2589

              #7
              Raf Simons Mostly for his work at Jil Sander. This fall's menswear is fantastic and and the womenswear this season and last with the shear fabrics was stunning. His own line continues to be interesting but more and more diluted in stores.

              Stefano Pilati Haven't bought anything YSL before, but he has really made YSL cool again while sticking to its heritage. The man himself is the best advertisement for his work, most stylish desinger out there. He oozes parisian elegance and cool (even if he's not parisian).

              Lucas O for Lanvin Lanvin continues to be an "it" brand but without relying on gimmicks (well, aside from the sneakers).

              Christopher Baily Burberry keeps getting better and better. He's really trademarked a distinct silhouette and his fabric choices keep getting better and he puts together the best color palettes out there IMO.

              Yohji/Ann A tie because they keep doing their thing but it's always great and heartfelt. They both defy trends and turn out conisistenly great collections without being redundant.
              music

              Comment

              • Fuuma
                Senior Member
                • Sep 2006
                • 4050

                #8
                All the fashion chicks are wearing Balmain nowadays. Doesn't look bad but please, they're as herdy as college girls and their Uggs.
                Selling CCP, Harnden, Raf, Rick etc.
                http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums...me-other-stuff

                Comment

                • Pinoy
                  Senior Member
                  • Dec 2006
                  • 661

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Fuuma View Post
                  All the fashion chicks are wearing Balmain nowadays. Doesn't look bad but please, they're as herdy as college girls and their Uggs.
                  while i agree with you here, can't the same be said for a lot of the posters on this board? Continues/RO/CCP hehe

                  Comment

                  • Fuuma
                    Senior Member
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 4050

                    #10
                    Originally posted by danieldy View Post
                    while i agree with you here, can't the same be said for a lot of the posters on this board? Continues/RO/CCP hehe
                    You said it not me. The thing is one of the reason people are gathered here is to discuss these designers while all the Vogue Paris girls have been working in fashion for a while and all jumped on the Balmain bandwagon at the same time. If there was a Balmain forum people who certainly dig ze Balmain but that's different, no?
                    Selling CCP, Harnden, Raf, Rick etc.
                    http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums...me-other-stuff

                    Comment

                    • kunk75
                      Banned
                      • May 2008
                      • 3364

                      #11
                      Raf-still the only truly conceptual designer season in and season out, jil woman's is excellent.

                      Comment

                      • Faust
                        kitsch killer
                        • Sep 2006
                        • 37849

                        #12
                        Stop smoking crack, Kunk. Although - Jil womens this past fall is amazing.
                        Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                        StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                        Comment

                        • kunk75
                          Banned
                          • May 2008
                          • 3364

                          #13
                          i got mrs. kunk the crumpled blue and white dress for 60% off!

                          Comment

                          • Casius
                            Senior Member
                            • Dec 2006
                            • 4772

                            #14
                            Yea, maybe Raf should rinse off some of that ol' conceptualism with his brand new beach towel.

                            Raf is good but he's getting lost down the rabbit hole.
                            "because the young are whores. dealers come to carol to get the rock"

                            Comment

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