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Ann Demeulemeester's waistcoats

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  • Chant
    Banned
    • Jun 2008
    • 2775

    Ann Demeulemeester's waistcoats

    I had the idea of this thread while watching again and again Ann D's FW 08 runway, where the waistcoats had a significant importance, as usual in her work.

    I especially liked the thick ones :





    First, I thought that this kind of waistcoat/coat association (i.e. a very thick waistcoat overtaking and recovering - "climbing" on - the coat) was new. But I jumped into the archives to be sure and took a look at all her previous male shows.

    And I found another example, in FW 07 :










    Principle is very near : single buttoned waiscoat, colour and shape of both the coat and the waistcoat echoing, and lapels of the waistcoat covering the coat's ones.



    The only difference in FW 08 is the specific wawing pleated shape of the waistcoat lapels :





    And also that, on one outfit, the waistcoat (his colour actually), visually pushed forward, submerges and devours the coat :



    I thought that an short anthology of Ann D's waistcoats could be interesting for those who are fans of her work from the very first begining, or involved in critical writing on fashion, or designers themselves or merely interested in fashion design.
    This point of view could appear to be odd, since Ann's work is constantly based on layering and the pieces of the trio shirt/waiscoat/jacket or coat shoudn't be considered separetely. But, let's see, it'll maybe make sense.
    Last edited by Chant; 01-15-2009, 12:46 PM.
  • Chant
    Banned
    • Jun 2008
    • 2775

    #2
    SS 2006







    In SS 06, the shapes of the waistcoats are quite classic, even though they're sometimes asymetrically buttoned.
    Last edited by Chant; 01-15-2009, 06:55 AM.

    Comment

    • Chant
      Banned
      • Jun 2008
      • 2775

      #3
      FW 06





      In FW 06, a high buttoned mao jacket looking like waiscoat appears and also the specific "wings" shape, with the rounded tails of the waiscoat flowingly spreaded aside, which will become a typical feature of her work.
      Last edited by Chant; 01-15-2009, 12:47 PM.

      Comment

      • Faust
        kitsch killer
        • Sep 2006
        • 37852

        #4
        FW 02



        Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

        StyleZeitgeist Magazine

        Comment

        • Faust
          kitsch killer
          • Sep 2006
          • 37852

          #5
          SS 03









          Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

          StyleZeitgeist Magazine

          Comment

          • Faust
            kitsch killer
            • Sep 2006
            • 37852

            #6
            FW 03











            Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

            StyleZeitgeist Magazine

            Comment

            • Faust
              kitsch killer
              • Sep 2006
              • 37852

              #7
              SS 04












              Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

              StyleZeitgeist Magazine

              Comment

              • Faust
                kitsch killer
                • Sep 2006
                • 37852

                #8
                FW 04





                Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                Comment

                • Faust
                  kitsch killer
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 37852

                  #9
                  SS 05





                  Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                  StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                  Comment

                  • Chant
                    Banned
                    • Jun 2008
                    • 2775

                    #10
                    SS 07

                    Classic shape is still present :





                    First appearance of the double layered waistcoat :










                    But this type of multi-layering shape appeared already in a female coat of FW 05 (Faust : ) :


                    [Credit : Faust]
                    Last edited by Chant; 01-15-2009, 10:23 AM.

                    Comment

                    • Chant
                      Banned
                      • Jun 2008
                      • 2775

                      #11
                      FW 07

                      I'd say this season is the season of the waistcoats : many different shapes, lenght and colours. I think it's also the first time that the lapels are shaped like coat's ones : waistcoats are now becoming a hybrid between vest and jacket/coat.

                      Long tails (and high buttoned) :





                      Short tails (same inspiration as the female cropped ones from SS 05 ?) :






                      First appearance (in male shows) of the asymetrical buttoned waiscoats :

                      Slightly moved aside :







                      Much more :


                      But the tails have the same lenght. They had not in SS 05 :


                      [Credit : Faust]
                      Last edited by Chant; 01-15-2009, 10:22 AM.

                      Comment

                      • Chant
                        Banned
                        • Jun 2008
                        • 2775

                        #12
                        SS 08

                        Nothing really new.


                        Classic layered X shape :





                        Short asymetrical, right tail covered by the left one :




                        Or reverse


                        Or reverse


                        Or reverse

                        Comment

                        • loveless
                          Senior Member
                          • Feb 2007
                          • 146

                          #13
                          great idea for a thread....

                          Comment

                          • Chant
                            Banned
                            • Jun 2008
                            • 2775

                            #14
                            FW 08

                            The wing-like shaped :









                            And the (very nice too) double layered 3-D collar :




                            Last edited by Chant; 01-15-2009, 12:51 PM.

                            Comment

                            • nycd
                              Senior Member
                              • Oct 2006
                              • 286

                              #15
                              best thread ever.

                              i wear at least one of her waistcoats every day.
                              sometimes two.
                              on special occasions, three.

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