Haider Ackermann to do menswear line

[Catfood]

http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/fash...9715?full=true

ACKERMANN’S MAN: Haider Ackermann, the Paris-based designer known for his evocative draping and somber aesthetic, is venturing into new territory: men’s wear. Ackermann, who was tapped to headline the Pitti W trade show in Florence in June, will also unveil his first men’s looks during the show. “We’re searching for the man behind the Ackermann woman. It’s just a start,” said Ackermann, who attended a lunch at the Hôtel de Crillon in Paris on Tuesday organized by Raffaello Napoleone, chief executive officer of Pitti Immagine. Ackermann said elements of men’s wear would be commercialized next season, but declined to provide further details. “I find it harder to design men’s wear. Women’s wear is something I fantasize, but with men’s wear, you are comparing it to yourself. I am the consumer,” he mused. Ackermann will unveil his lineup on June 16 at the Palazzo Corsini in Florence.

Personally I'm really excited about this, Ackermann is one of my absolute favorite womanswear designers. I'm really curious to see what he'll do for men.

[Faust]

Sweet! This should be interesting.

[Fuuma]

Sweet! This should be interesting.

Yay. Ann+Ackermann+Rick might make me go full SZ look.

[sam_tem]

great news, but i can't get too excited cuz i know his price points will be way beyond anything that i can justify or even pick up second hand due to limited quantities.

it'll be interesting to see if he can make a collection that avoids any damir doma comparisons (but in saying that i can't say i've ever seen him wear anything that fits loose like his women's clothes)

[Faust]

Haider wears Ann. I think it will be closer to that.

Fuuma, right on!

[Heirloom]

wish he'd do his esthaetic all out for men as well. wuld be too awesome for words

[move_ment]

was so excited when I heard this but I must say I'm not expecting drapes or anything similar to his womans collection - expect lots of tailoring, detailed patterns - more of a compliment than emulation to the ackerman woman.

[metin]

Might need to actually pay attention to Pitti this year. ;)

[SHYE_POSER]

https://www.dazeddigital.com

When the internet received news that Haider Ackermann would, after eight years of making women yearn for his seductive and challenging fantasies, turn his hand to menswear, too, a male poster on The Fashion Spot cried out: “The heavens have opened up and sent us a miracle.” Indeed, Ackermann’s no minor deity among worshippers of true old-fashioned fashion. His reputation as an independent thinker is unsoiled by fast-fashion collaborations or big label ambitions, and the only celebrity he bows to is film - not movie! - goddess, Tilda Swinton. Dazed sat down and spoke with fashion’s independent in Toronto, where he sojourned for two days before first escaping to “get lost in the mountains for two weeks", then prepping for Pitti Uomo in Florence. He’ll show there June 16, guys. Miracles happen.

Dazed Digital: Many womenswear designers have begun designing for men, which is almost more interesting. So much has done for women, but for men, so much is left to do.
Haider Ackermann: There is so much you can’t do on a man. You don’t want your man to look too fashionable.

DD: Why not?
Haider Ackermann: Man is about attitude, about gesture. You don’t want him to be trendy or too much of anything.

DD: Same for women too, though.
Haider Ackermann: For women it’s different. There’s a sensuality I don’t see in men. It’s a new exercise which is difficult. But I enjoyed it. I’m always thinking, who is the man behind the woman I’m designing for? Who is the lover? Where is he coming from? What does he do?

DD: Of course, there are some women who can stand alone.
Haider Ackermann: Yes, there are. And that’s why I make them clothes, because they don’t have the arms around them.

DD: Did you think of that just now, or were you writing down one-liners on the plane here?
Haider Ackermann: Just now! I never prepare interviews.

DD: You’re obviously not a believer in androgyny, then, which is what you see a lot of designers doing now. Or they make basically the same thing in a version for men and for women.
Haider Ackermann: Yeah. No. I mean, my woman has always been attracted by men's clothes. A woman wearing a man’s clothes has a sensuality about it, when she wears a shirt or a blazer, you think like, where was she last night? Did she run away from her lover? Did she have to take his jacket? There’s always a story. I love the idea that she might have those lovers.

DD: And when a woman wears a man’s clothes, usually, it creates a space between body and clothes.
Haider Ackermann: Yes, it can be very sensual.

DD: The bodycon thing—yes, we love it, but it got so boring.
Haider Ackermann: It’s the same thing for men. In the 60s and 70s a lot of rockstars wore everything so tight. I mean, look at David Bowie, what he wore in the 60s and 70s. It was very feminine, but there was an elegance coming out of it. Still, it’s very—it was always very borderline.

DD: Do you have a certain man in mind? Do you design for yourself, then, when you’re designing menswear?
Haider Ackermann: No. And no, I don’t have a certain man in mind. Of course it’s a man who's not 16. My man had a life, whatever it is. He had a past. He’s been living, and he’s coming to peace now. But he had a highly coloured life. That’s how I’m imagining it.

DD: And you’re not talking about yourself. You’re sure?
Haider Ackermann: [laughing] I can’t say.

[Heirloom]

wow. sortof unmodern way to look at it... discriminating even. I'm very turned off.

So if a woman doesn't have a mans arms around her she needs a substitute? Is his clothes a metaphor for a man protecting a woman? Whatabout motherly love applied to a son? Isn't that something to make clothes about? Does it always have to reflect man and woman making love or being in love? BOOORING...

And a man can't be too much of anything, why? Or else he wont be a man???

so many retarded onelines in such a short text.

[Faust]

Heh. Standby for a real interview.

[SHYE_POSER]

exacatigly! Bear in mind that it is dazed and their interviews are more or less crap! They even get bloody names wrong!
So dont read too much into it,and let the clothes do the talking!

[christianef]

from what ive read haider always comes across very self-cynical in the press. he generally undermines his own abilities so the last thing he is probably going to say is im going to completely reinvent menswear and blow all of your minds or gloat about what we should expect. he`s very talented but not especially confident (Simone Cecchetto is probably a better source for wild delsusions of grandeur if thats what you seek.) ann has expressed a similar attitude towards her menswear about men being a lot more simple and essentially plain compared to women and her menswear is always exciting and a forum favorite. im sure this will follow in the same footsteps of ann,. these guys know who their niche is by now and haider is especially talented at appeasing it. so im sure things will be on par with what we have come to expect from him regardless of how unenthusiastic he may come across.

[cro426]

Completely agree with you. I'm sure it will all make sense. He and the support team around him are very smart.

[SHYE_POSER]

Just thought i would put up this image that was with the dazed article. If that is part of his mens collection.....I like.
I have a friend going to see it tommorow evening at pitti, so i shall come with some feed back,and hopefully some images.