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Kirk Learns To Sew

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  • kirkmitchell
    Junior Member
    • Apr 2009
    • 20

    Kirk Learns To Sew

    15 years ago my mother took it upon herself to teach me to sew, and I made exactly one pair of pajamas and a quilt with cats on it (I still have the quilt, actually!) I haven't made anything since, but in the last year and a bit I've been gearing up to making something. Three notebooks of sketches later, over the past week I've finally put together my first shirt and pair of shorts.

    I'm creating this thread to log my wrongheaded approaches and beginner's mistakes as I attempt to put together a coherent line of clothing for myself. So I'll upload any concrete progress I make as it comes. I've been holding off making this thread for a while until I had something to show for it.

    So first, the shirt. Its a long v-neck tee made from 60% Bamboo 35% Rayon 5% Lycra, if I remember correctly. I'll write down the percentages of the next blend I use. Designed as an undershirt, but its been getting a lot of wear on its own. Very nice feel and drape to it, so I plan on making some more in a cream colour, but with a tidier collar and seams that are actually finished. I'm thinking french seams, because its clean looking and not all ragged like it is now. I screwed up the collar a bit, because I did it last, and without building it into the pattern, thinking "Oh, its just the collar, how hard can it be?"

    So yeah, won't be doing that again.





    And the shorts. They're 55% Linen 45% Cotton, undyed, so I dyed them black. The lining is this beautiful 100% Cotton and since I've never had lined pants before every step feels like getting a handjob from Jesus.





    Here's the pattern I used.



    I was attempting to get a crotch shape something like this, because I (and my girlfriend) like the way that tighter fitted pants make my arse look, but since I spend a lot of time being very active and needing significant mobility, I need the extra clearance at the front. And I need to do that without limiting my capacity for broad legged stances and lifting my legs really high, so I cut the pants to naturally sit in a broad stance.



    Unfortunately, while my pattern creates a fair approximation of the crotch shape I'm looking for, it also makes it look like my balls have a stabilizer fin.



    So by the next pair of trousers the dreaded crotch fin will hopefully have been eradicated. But here's what the rest of the trousers look like. Three of the buttons are wood, and the top one is bone. The lining is not secured at the hem so that I can reach the insides for repairs. If there's a better way to be able to look under the hood, let me know! I didn't put any pockets in because I didn't want to mess with the clean lines, and plus I want to train myself out of shoving my hands in my pockets all the time.







    I'll post a fit pic of the shorts shortly.

    I think all in all, I look pretty snazzy. And I feel really comfortable walking around in them too. Not at all like I'm wearing a costume or dressing up. This is "me."
  • kirkmitchell
    Junior Member
    • Apr 2009
    • 20

    #2


    Grainy fit pic for the shorts and tee.

    And here's the next project on the workdesk. Its a fencing shirt with a twisted seam in the arm for a mate of mine.





    I've also got patterns for some trousers and a soft drapey variation on this fencing shirt here that I'm trying to math out if anyone is interested in taking a peek at those.

    Comment

    • cmkz
      Junior Member
      • Jun 2010
      • 8

      #3
      If you don't mind, would I be able to take a look at the trouser patterns? If you'd like I could scan a guide to constructing some basic block patterns in return for you, if you'd like/need them.

      Those shorts look really good, by the way.

      Comment

      • kirkmitchell
        Junior Member
        • Apr 2009
        • 20

        #4
        Sure thing. I've been getting along by looking at really basic patterns online, modifying them until they look like what I think should work, and then trying them on. I'd like to see the guide; it would be interesting to see what sorts of things I'm doing horribly wrong!

        I'm scannerless with no money, so I hope you can see the details in the photos. The first pair are going to be in a 45% silk, 35% wool, 20% linen blend, black, and the second pair are going to be some sort of boiled wool or cashmere that I haven't found yet. Maybe pinstripey. I have a very specific feel of fabric in mind, and haven't found it yet. And you can also see some preliminary work that I'm doing on a semi-formal cycling shirt.



        Comment

        • kirkmitchell
          Junior Member
          • Apr 2009
          • 20

          #5
          I'm just putting the finishing touches on a pair of trousers, and have a question about raw edges. I didn't have the money available to go for the nice silk/wool/linen blend I wanted, so I'm using the same linen/cotton blend as I used in the shorts. I've cocked up the waist area, and am contemplating my options for finishing it off. I could insert a rather awkward waistband, rather than hemming it like I had planned, or I could leave the seams raw. Is there a way that I could leave the edges raw and not have it unravel on me? I've done some experimentation on some scrap bits of fabric, including singeing the edges with a lighter (which I'm not even certain worked to stop the fabric from unraveling) and blanket stitching.

          I'll throw up some pics of what I'm working with tonight or tomorrow.

          Comment


          • #6
            burning the fibers only works on fibers that melt aka synthetic fibers.

            i suggest using binding on the back

            Comment

            • alex.a
              Senior Member
              • Aug 2008
              • 217

              #7
              i didnt try but maybe just some fabric glue or fabric paint on the hem will hold the fibers together if you really dont want to stitch it?

              Comment

              • kirkmitchell
                Junior Member
                • Apr 2009
                • 20

                #8
                So a couple of days clearly means after I'm finished moving. Here are the pants! I've worn them out a couple of times, and while I'm actually pretty displeased with them, I've got no funny looks from people, so either Canadian politeness saves the day or they don't look half bad. They are very comfortable, and are in the right direction in terms of shape (and obviously nowhere near where they need to be construction wise), but not quite there yet.





                I opted to stitch some binding to the back of the waistline and let the top fray a bit. Or at least that's what I think I did. Did I do it right?





                A bit of online searching tells me that what I originally wanted to do was self-finish or self-bind the waistline, but I accidentally didn't cut myself enough seam allowance. Good thing I wasn't working with expensive material.

                Other thing I did was not make them quite small enough. Must've made an error when transferring the pattern from my prototype, 'cause that one fit perfectly. So, lesson learned.

                Done some more thinking and playing with fabric. Here's a sketch of what 2.0 is probably going to look like. Keeping the basic shape but adding a second, smaller pleat, as well as curving the entire design backwards so it stacks from the knee down, sort of similar to a j-shape (or exactly similar? I don't know.) Not quite certain how the stacking will work on such a voluminous piece, but we'll find out soon enough. Found a beautiful wool fabric that I can't afford to go along with the silk/wool/linen blend, so if everything works out I should have two pairs of trousers at the end of all this.





                Would love to hear some thoughts on the design. I'm still figuring out what I want to do, style-wise.

                Comment

                • suesy
                  Junior Member
                  • Oct 2010
                  • 4

                  #9
                  I love your work. I love the materials and fine printing. Linen and cotton themselve feel like a handjob from Jesus, but you bring them into so nice and comfy looking shapes. I'd love to wear them in a hot and humid country, and feel the light breeze through them ;)

                  Comment

                  • Faust
                    kitsch killer
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 37852

                    #10
                    Originally posted by suesy View Post
                    I love your work. I love the materials and fine printing. Linen and cotton themselve feel like a handjob from Jesus, but you bring them into so nice and comfy looking shapes. I'd love to wear them in a hot and humid country, and feel the light breeze through them ;)
                    Hmmmm....
                    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                    Comment

                    • eat me
                      Senior Member
                      • May 2009
                      • 648

                      #11
                      ^ funny you should outline that. I'm no God-fearing or religious man, but I find this weird. I know the OP is young and all, but it's just such a bizarre thing to say. I get that it's supposed to be tongue-in-cheek, but somehow it just comes off like a bad taste.

                      On the topic: kirkmitchell, doing pants is one of the most difficult things to do. I find doing a jacket is even easier. Sure, one can do pretty basic fit easily, but when it comes to do doing some particular fits just right for a male - it gets very challenging. Just wait 'till you get to constructing a drop-crotch.

                      To be frank - these pants don't look good at all. I think what would benefit you (and that's true for anything) is to get the basics right first, and then move on to your own designs. This is a book that you need - Patternmaking for Fashion Design. It's one of the most decent out there. I know it seems a tad expensive, but think of it as 4 meters of fabric ruined trying to half-bake something that doesn't look good, or instead investing in something that will help you to understand how patterncutting works and achieve better results.

                      Comment

                      • kirkmitchell
                        Junior Member
                        • Apr 2009
                        • 20

                        #12
                        Agreed.The trousers were worn a grand total of twice before being given a place of honour stuffed somewhere in the depths of the closet with my dusty plane luggage. My initial pride at "oh look, I made a thing," dissipated pretty quickly. You're not the first who has, quite rightly, chided me biting off more than I can chew.

                        So, to basics. The book's out of my reach for a bit but I'll set aside some funds for it. Is there any place where I can make a more immediate start, or should I just bunker down until some paperback help arrives?

                        After watching a short clip on how Harris tweed is made, I've been chatting with the ladies at the local weaver's guild. I've gone temporarily mad and am considering learning to weave.

                        Comment

                        • eat me
                          Senior Member
                          • May 2009
                          • 648

                          #13
                          calm down man, it's the hormones. If you'll get overexcited and try to learn everything at once you'll most likely end up with extremely average stuff. If that.

                          To start you off, I can take some pictures of the pant block chapter for you, but you'll need to give me time, I'm on a tight schedule atm.

                          Comment

                          • kirkmitchell
                            Junior Member
                            • Apr 2009
                            • 20

                            #14
                            I'd like that a lot. Thank you!

                            Comment

                            • Lane
                              Senior Member
                              • Aug 2010
                              • 988

                              #15
                              you've got a good thing going. Don't be discouraged by your first failures.

                              Comment

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