Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Julius FW11

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • cooldudeguy3000
    Member
    • Jun 2010
    • 51

    #31
    Holy sh-. The silhouettes are mind blowing. Elegant, refined yet edgy. Either I'm still drunk from last night or this may be one of the best collections I've seen.

    Comment

    • kunk75
      Banned
      • May 2008
      • 3364

      #32
      i think you need to see more collections

      Comment

      • Lane
        Senior Member
        • Aug 2010
        • 988

        #33
        I definitelt see similarities with Crust 09, but that doesn't detract me from appreciating it at all, since it still is very much in line with Julius's own direction.

        Comment

        • BUMMER
          Senior Member
          • Feb 2010
          • 181

          #34
          Originally posted by kunk75 View Post
          am i small minded in seeing his collections as an ann/ro/taralis/doma salad?
          Totally agree with Kunk's salad observation.^
          It's arguably a very japanese take on those designers in the same way that Flower Travellin Band is a very japanese take on Black Sabbath, but still.
          I also agree with Heirloom to a certain extent. I *like* it fine, as it resembles things i've worn/loved forever now..
          But I'm just not completely psyched on it in general. It's more mature and less cartoonish-ly apocalyptic than previous collections, but I just can't get on board completely.

          Comment

          • Faust
            kitsch killer
            • Sep 2006
            • 37852

            #35
            This was awesome. Case closed. PM Sent. Game over.
            Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

            StyleZeitgeist Magazine

            Comment

            • vapidly
              Member
              • Dec 2007
              • 53

              #36
              This is julius but there is definitely a discernible evolution between seasons. The mixture between draping and sharp tailoring is pulled off flawlessly. The leathers and accessories are clearly julius, but different. The wool/cotton coats remind me individual sentiments fw09/10 (or maybe i'm thinking ss 10? either way, this is another excellent collection from a designer who continues to have a solid aesthetic vision while maintaining gradual transformation.

              Comment

              • kunk75
                Banned
                • May 2008
                • 3364

                #37
                on a side note, you seem to be somewhat silent on RO. Impressions?

                Originally posted by Faust View Post
                This was awesome. Case closed. PM Sent. Game over.

                Comment

                • fightattack
                  Member
                  • Mar 2009
                  • 37

                  #38
                  I just scrolled through all of that staring at their feet.
                  This future-footwear just future-murdered my future-wallet.


                  Feels more confident than previous collections - like he doesn't have to scream "DISTRESSED! FUTURE! PUNK!" anymore.

                  Comment

                  • Avantster
                    ¤¤¤
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 1983

                    #39
                    A very solid collection from Julius that displays further refinement and a touch more austerity. Good styling too - this is how you do shades of black. Found it interesting there were lots of longer jackets/coats with square bottoms and layering to achieve a 3 block silhouette.
                    let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

                    Comment

                    • beardown
                      rekoner
                      • Feb 2009
                      • 1418

                      #40
                      One of the things I've liked Julius for in the past is the masculine/military edge/influence. I'm probably more conservative than the average SZer but I find the flowing/drapey thing to be way too explored already.

                      I like the idea of experimenting with different lines and levels of layers but let's face it: very few men can successfully pull of the man skirt. The apron, maybe. But not the full skirt.

                      I see the more masculine pieces giving way to the feminine influence and it just doesn't appeal to me personally. As an overall vision and display, it's a fine job but nothing we've not seen before from other designers. I have to agree with Kunk's salad theory. Much of the respect I have for designers comes from the vision as well as the execution. Execution here appears masterful at times; vision seems as dull as recent Raf lines.

                      And if I'm going for something that is masculine that flirts with feminine, I think Ann already has mastered that without having to bend to the lowest common denominator (in my opinion): The drape.
                      I'm just not buying this concept that you can wear a dress and as long as you're wearing a leather jacket and combat boots, you can get away with it as a guy or justify it as post-apocalyptic survival gear.
                      And in terms of drapery and elegance, I've seen Heirloom present it better than most of these outfits. The 'man in dress' isn't a new concept; it's just that most men can't pull it off.

                      Julius has definitely matured as a brand...but in doing so it lost some of the elements that I appreciated about the line. If the term, 'glunge' (glam/grunge) was ever a legitimate word, then I see it as shifting to 'glamge' where the glam part is beating out the grunge part. I know that was mostly applied to Rick from the mainstream fashion media but it seems pretty applicable here.

                      Juxtaposing elegant materials in flowing drapery with a leather choker and distressed boots also seems to have run its course. As a presentation, a step up. As a line that appeals to me, several steps back. Seeing some of these designers chase one another's tails makes me want to go back to wearing military surplus at times.

                      With Rick's latest line, I can see it and think, 'Amazing work but mostly not for me.' With this latest Julius line, I see Banana Republic meets Hot Topic meets the dining room tablecloth and that's something I have a hard time really respecting.
                      Originally posted by mizzar
                      Sorry for being kind of a dick to you.

                      Comment

                      • Faust
                        kitsch killer
                        • Sep 2006
                        • 37852

                        #41
                        Interesting post, beardown, but I see one problem here. How do you tell a designer who, we must assume, has a genuine interest in a certain look that the look has run its course? It's like telling Trent Reznor, you know buddy, no one listens to industrial music anymore, maybe move on to R&B?
                        Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                        StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                        Comment

                        • BUMMER
                          Senior Member
                          • Feb 2010
                          • 181

                          #42
                          First: Well-said Beardown..
                          Second: Faust, I don't think BD is asking anyone to abandon their interests or means of expression. He's just honestly calling to question whether the results are really that interesting at the end of the day. Of course it's subjective, you obviously are into the Julius collection, but that doesn't diminish his point. I.E. You could totally disagree taste-wise, but it doesn't contradict what he's saying at all.-That despite being well-executed, intense, dark, luxurious and having all the trappings of things held dear, it just doesn't come across as a sincere, personally held, independently-arrived-at vision. It's just too easy to see this as a pastiche of other designers.. (I mean, look 6 is a gotdamn Diesel fencing jacket with a curtain over the shoulder!)
                          Is the collection well done, yes. Beautiful, sure. Sincere?, maybe!? But it isn't without a doubt a clear, personally held vision. I see lots of great elements but few if any choices or decisions. That's all that's being called into question.
                          I'm not naive enough to say that designers I admire create in vacuum and are absolutely original with no references to the past, but to me this is really more the work of a fan, collecting elements that he observes in his contemporaries. I'd go so far as to guess this is more a product of a team.. It's just too well-researched, aimed at a demographic and by the numbers.
                          No offense!, just how I see it.
                          Third: Why are we still up posting stuff about Paris fashion week. It's 2:30am in NY...Wait, it's only 8:30pm in Paris.. Oops.

                          Comment

                          • thehouseofdis
                            Senior Member
                            • Jan 2010
                            • 696

                            #43
                            8:30am in Paris
                            THE HOUSE OF DIS
                            embrace the twenty first movement

                            Comment

                            • BUMMER
                              Senior Member
                              • Feb 2010
                              • 181

                              #44
                              oops: AM

                              Comment

                              • beardown
                                rekoner
                                • Feb 2009
                                • 1418

                                #45
                                Originally posted by Faust View Post
                                Interesting post, beardown, but I see one problem here. How do you tell a designer who, we must assume, has a genuine interest in a certain look that the look has run its course? It's like telling Trent Reznor, you know buddy, no one listens to industrial music anymore, maybe move on to R&B?
                                That's a good analogy so I'll see if I can explain my opinion based on that. I'm not suggesting that Horikawa change genres at all; only that he's explored his 'vision' to the point where it feels repetitive and no longer a unique creation. Whether that's because other designers are doing what he did earlier or whether he is inspired by what the other designers are doing I'm not quite sure. But there's no doubt that it all intersects at a pretty disappointing plane as far as 'unique visions' go.

                                If Trent Reznor kept putting out Pretty Hate Machine over and over and over, I'd suggest the same to him as an artist. But he had the talent and vision to uniquely explore varying approaches, even if he failed at times.

                                I loved Pretty Hate Machine because even though other bands/people were doing industrial music, Trent created something that was personal and unique...less cold and sampled and typical. That was the 'vision' to take something that existed and make it his own.

                                Later on, The Downward Spiral was a good album. Not a great album, but very solid and unique. Horikawa seems to be putting out The Downward Spiral over and over in a way even though other designers are also putting out their own versions of The Downward Spiral.

                                That's all. I see him as a very talented, very influential designer who comes across to me as having lost some spark, vision or direction. As a designer, I have great respect for him...I'm a big fan. It's just that this line seems uninspired to me and that's a little disappointing. Clearly a lot of people like the pieces...and again, I agree it's a great presentation to be sure.

                                But who wants to listen to the Downward Spiral when you can listen to Pretty Hate Machine?
                                Originally posted by mizzar
                                Sorry for being kind of a dick to you.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X
                                😀
                                🥰
                                🤢
                                😎
                                😡
                                👍
                                👎