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OBSCUR FW11/12

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  • Peasant
    Senior Member
    • Jul 2009
    • 1507

    #31
    I agree with Eternal. Over all, quite impressive. But I think toning down the drama and going a bit more structured and tailored is a good direction for now. A young designer will likely improve after attempting such pieces. Forcing you to pay closer attention to fit and movement. Even the leather is more routine. I don't find that a bad thing, as his over-the-top leather coats have never done much for me. How is the quality of the leathers he uses? I remember handling an older piece in NY. Short jacket with paint specks on it. Felt fairly nice considering the low price.

    I do love the zip-off gloves. And this time they really look like they belong and are fluid off the sleeves. Previous attempts seemed to bear odd buldges and seams...bothersome to wear. Good job Richard.

    Comment

    • kompressorkev
      Senior Member
      • Dec 2006
      • 685

      #32
      A nice step forward, looks like some very nice pieces. I've handled Obscur items for several seasons in the past but never paid much close attention to the brand, but this collection is quite nice. I like the lookbook feel more than previous seasons' too. The leather blazer, the trousers, and the boots are standouts for me.

      Comment

      • moderninc2010
        Senior Member
        • Jan 2011
        • 94

        #33
        some very nice pieces here, i must say i am pleasantly surprised

        Comment

        • evilsean
          Junior Member
          • Mar 2010
          • 19

          #34
          clothing wise this is my favorite collection to date. although i love the gunter brus campaign photos, this flows better. love the overcoat with hood/scarf.

          Comment

          • Chinorlz
            Senior Member
            • Sep 2006
            • 6422

            #35
            Really liking the zippered glove design and the zipper placements on it. Wish it was placed on a more classic, minimal jacket. Would be instakop!

            Like others have mentioned on here, the tailoring looks really great and it's a very clean and crisp look while still retaining the Obscur feel.
            www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

            Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

            Comment

            • gavagai
              Senior Member
              • May 2010
              • 468

              #36
              I too am a big fan of the zip closure on the jackets. I'd like if this was offered on shirts/minimal jackets as I can't really pull of some of the garments shown in the pics.

              Comment

              • Orimono
                Junior Member
                • Oct 2010
                • 2

                #37
                Met up with Richard and his team in Paris and handled this full collection and I was stunned! Leathers were great as always but also very impressed with the boots (the fit was amazing) and several of the coats. Mature collection from Obscur and the future for Richard looks very bright if he can add an even wider range in his coming collections.

                Comment

                • alex.a
                  Senior Member
                  • Aug 2008
                  • 217

                  #38
                  thought id share that image from their facebook we can see a bit more detail on that blazer,

                  Comment

                  • copacetic
                    Senior Member
                    • Nov 2010
                    • 209

                    #39
                    I think Obscur had to move in this more tailored/less gothic direction because that's where the market is. I don't know anyone who owns a piece from Obscur, never seen a piece on someone, and it almost never pops up on the Classifieds here or elsewhere.

                    The older collections, though beautiful, were simply too "gothic" to consider wearing them out. I wouldn't ever wear them in the states...that scene just isn't here. I think you could get away with wearing them in Northern Europe...Germany...Denmark...Norway...Sweden.
                    And "When the prince has gathered about him
                    "All the savants and artists, his riches will be fully employed."

                    Canto XIII, Ezra Pound

                    Comment

                    • upsilonkng
                      Senior Member
                      • May 2010
                      • 874

                      #40
                      but who in sunny San Diego wears anything but flip flops and gotcha?
                      I was there last weekend and I believe I was the only person I saw wearing Rick/Julius.
                      There is definitely an underground goth scene there, but it's so lame like every gothic scene and the people are broke and just buy stuff from the mall. And besides..nothing obscur makes even come in sad goth sizzzz.

                      Comment

                      • michael_kard
                        Senior Member
                        • Oct 2010
                        • 2152

                        #41
                        I loved Obscur's old stuff. if I could afford retail I would buy it all, and wear it as much as I could. I think the new direction is in many ways more sober, mature and all that but I loved how he was shamelessly designing a hardcore Gothic look. Those collections were basically a definition of extreme but beautiful clothing for me, and I wish he would have chosen to retain this stubbornness, if you will. His clothing is still quite special, but to my untrained eyes it seems like he's kind of stepping into the whole "reduced" aesthetic which I'm not such a big fan of.
                        ENDYMA / Archival fashion & Consignment
                        Helmut Lang 1986-2005 | Ann Demeulemeester | Raf Simons | Burberry Prorsum | and more...

                        Comment

                        • copacetic
                          Senior Member
                          • Nov 2010
                          • 209

                          #42
                          Yes, I'm in San Diego most of the time, but I end up traveling all over. I split my time three ways between the west coast, east coast, and Asia.

                          Who is going to wear Obscur? If you're young and goth, you can't afford it. If you're old and goth...you probably aren't an upstanding citizen...and therefore can't afford it. Maybe 20's and goth? It's so hard to dissociate Obscur's earlier seasons from a specific "scene," even though the clothes have little to do with that scene.

                          Still, if I lived in Berlin, I'd be all over it.
                          And "When the prince has gathered about him
                          "All the savants and artists, his riches will be fully employed."

                          Canto XIII, Ezra Pound

                          Comment

                          • widmerpool
                            Senior Member
                            • Nov 2010
                            • 151

                            #43
                            How old is an old goth? I'm 37, I bought Floodland the day it came out. I'd buy some Obscur if I ever came across any to try on.
                            http://asteroidanxiety.bandcamp.com

                            Comment

                            • Peasant
                              Senior Member
                              • Jul 2009
                              • 1507

                              #44
                              Relating his direction to where the market is, is such a cunt statement. I have simple pieces from every collection. And i enjoy them frequently.
                              R's old stuff (non-tailored) are what defines this label. Seriously.. don't be so blatantly naive.

                              Comment

                              • copacetic
                                Senior Member
                                • Nov 2010
                                • 209

                                #45
                                Originally posted by Peasant View Post
                                I have simple pieces from every collection. And i enjoy them frequently.
                                Woohoo! I've finally met someone who collects Obscur!
                                And "When the prince has gathered about him
                                "All the savants and artists, his riches will be fully employed."

                                Canto XIII, Ezra Pound

                                Comment

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