Damir Doma Men's FW11 Paris

[ledger]

Came across these // Interested to see how the images/inspiration is realised in the collection on Saturday.

[kbi]

judging from the sneak preview on the homepage damir has made some interesting changes in his aesthetic. Interested to see if it will somehow collide with rick's.

[BUMMER]

^Ha. Was wondering the same to myself based on the last, shadowy image of the lapel-less, single-button overcoat..
So looking forward to this collection nonetheless! Loved SS10/FW10, so even with a slight break in style, I anticipate that i'll love it.

[kunk75]

have been a near-fan for a while, hoping he brings in the silhouette so i can join the party

[BUMMER]

I detect a slight Homme plus/'schoolboy'-leaning in the DD preview video though Kunk... Wonder if it'll really convert you after all..?
Kinda feeling the elevator shoes myself though, strangely... We'll see..

[kunk75]

i can appreciate free size but i have never seen a body his previous collections were meant for.

[SHYE_POSER]

DD AW11 = DD/RAF/DIOR ///////

Bit puzzled by the extreme change in direction. Sure the volume is still there, and some nice looking fabrics, but i do not see much of the aesthetic that he has been developing over the past couple of seasons. I quite like a lot of the looks, but maybe i will have to digest it before commenting properly.

[mrbeuys]

Ha, same thought came across my mind when i looked at it. Had someone told me this was KvA I wouldn't have doubted it. Not sure what that says...

[kunk75]

total speculation but maybe a change in direction was financially motivated. So much of his stuff seems to end up on sale racks well beyond almost anything else. there is being a visionary and there is selling clothes but at retail you need to land somewhere in between and most people I know have looked at his collections like me "cool stuff, won't buy it."

Maybe there is no correlation but a diffusion line 2 seasons in cannot have been a good sign, though silent sells like hot cakes.

[Shucks]

recently read an interview with him (will type it up and post in main dd thread when i find it) where i got the impression that he is VERY aware of financial considerations - in fact, i was quite disappointed at the level of commercialism of his focus, although i guess there is also something to be said for being honest about it. apparently the move into womenswear is mainly a commercial move for damir, as menswear simply doesn't sell in large enough volumes (not surprising given the fairly difficult silhouettes/pieces of previous seasons...). and obviously silent is a similarly motivated venture. so i wouldn't be at all surprised if also the design identity of the menswear may now change quite drastically for similar reasons.

i for one don't mind the more minimal direction it has taken with this collection as i feel it still pushes the envelope volume-wise but without some of that annoying detailing dd has suffered from previously. i feel damir's fascination with armani is now even more evident (perhaps that may also be part of any perceived similarity to KVA's first 80's new wave-inspired dior shenanigans... ). all in all i really like this collection, and in particular the pants...

[SHYE_POSER]

Financial may be part of the reason, but .....iuf stuff is left on sale racks, they don't really lose out as DD/paper rain still get their money.Considering that in some cases they have a minimum spend in the show room, and they are not short of accounts or stores that want to carry the label.
Besides the financial element I don't understand such a change in direction, especually into tailoring, when tbh I wouldn't go to DD for a suit.

[Shucks]

again, if image size is too big, pm me and i'll try to change it later...

EDIT: some of the broken links now fixed...

[Shucks]

[Shucks]

[holger]

:-(

sorry, looks like a Dior KVA show.
sorry