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Thread: Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme FW11 Paris

  1. #21
    Senior Member Mail-Moth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eternal View Post
    Although I love the tailoring in this collection and it's a pleasure to the eye, there are still elements I find ironic, and I don't really like ironic clothing ( leave it to the hipsters).

    What I do find strange though, is that there is nothing about that overweight man in a pair of wide cuffed cord trousers, sneakers and a knit that appeals to me.

    I also find it strange that the skeletton knit is something people seem to like, when the same people think that Julius had too much of a teenage goth thing going on, and that those references were too strong.

    I think something like that knit was worn by some of my classmates in junior high, that were really hardcore in their own perspectives, listening to Iron Maiden and all. Not going to start a fight, as I love most of the collection and the hues and fabrics looks amazing from the close ups, just addressing something I never understood.
    That's an interesting point, and i'll try to answer as clearly as I can.

    First, irony is not for hipsters. Hipsters are simply making fun of things that were worthless to begin with, imagining that making those things part of their culture through derision somewhat shows the extense of their own aptitude not to take themselves seriously. At least, this is how I understand it.

    Taking death as a bad joke is a whole different matter. I don't see that in the gothic movement, nor in Julius, BTW - or in thoses cases it is mixed with fascination and fear, in an attempt - and a very immature one - to make death a little more familiar, and an acceptable alternative, as a fantasy, to the even more frightening adult life. I was one of those kids you were talking about when I was younger - I was listening to metal and all, and was obsessed by the morbid aesthetics attached to it. My father once told me : "If only it could help you not to be afraid of death - but I doubt it's enough." As your average teenager I barely listened to the old man's ramble. What did he know ? He was always afraid of being sick ! He was the one in fear, when I was already prepared to rot away. I was listening to the proper music, reading the proper books : death was my closest friend.

    Years later I simply can say that he was right. Death is simply an ugly reality. And a very ordinary one. Nothing like a grandiose apocalypse of the self. I can imagine Yohji feeling that he has entered the last chapter of his life. What's to be done with death ? A comfy knit. I mean, at least it will keep us warm for once. Yes - a bad joke. What else can we do ?

    This is irony - of a very tender, very human sort.
    Last edited by Mail-Moth; 01-21-2011 at 10:12 AM.
    I can see a hat, I can see a cat,
    I can see a man with a baseball bat.

  2. #22

  3. #23

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    Fuck me, great post MM.

  4. #24

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    you don't get to see the patchwork (screen printed suits?) unfortunately but a handful of the other outfits.

    the footwear is horrible indeed but funnily enough i didn't notice them till reading the comments because i was too busy focusing on the clothing or maybe because it was finely in tune with the overall effect.

  5. #25
    Senior Member Mail-Moth's Avatar
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    Thanks Marco-Von !
    Does anyone know what the soundtrack is ?
    I can see a hat, I can see a cat,
    I can see a man with a baseball bat.

  6. #26

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eternal View Post
    Although I love the tailoring in this collection and it's a pleasure to the eye, there are still elements I find ironic, and I don't really like ironic clothing ( leave it to the hipsters).

    What I do find strange though, is that there is nothing about that overweight man in a pair of wide cuffed cord trousers, sneakers and a knit that appeals to me.

    I also find it strange that the skeletton knit is something people seem to like, when the same people think that Julius had too much of a teenage goth thing going on, and that those references were too strong.

    I think something like that knit was worn by some of my classmates in junior high, that were really hardcore in their own perspectives, listening to Iron Maiden and all. Not going to start a fight, as I love most of the collection and the hues and fabrics looks amazing from the close ups, just addressing something I never understood.
    As I see it, there is still a difference between the post apocalytic reference of Julius and these skeleton sweaters.

    With Julius, everything is carefully arranged to achieve that specific aesthetic which has been refered by some people as related to teenage fantasies, whereas the death motiv is kinda diliberately "misplaced" by Yohji on these chunky sweaters which seems humorous to me in a way (I mean it doesn't really comply with the teenage idea of edgy coolness). IMO this approach is only to be taken by a much more mature personality and really differs from that teenage mindset. Not sure if I'm making sense here

  8. #28
    Senior Member Mail-Moth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marco-von View Post
    ^MM

    Fink - If only
    I never should have asked. Listening to the album for the third time since you answered. I'm indulging too easily in this kind of things.
    I can see a hat, I can see a cat,
    I can see a man with a baseball bat.

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by wire.artist View Post
    I approve this message, great collection. I hate reviewing yohji from pictures...it's really all about the fabric and how it moves.


    It has a lot of auto referential numbers, he's quoting himself. But I really like it, because he's refining some ideas. For example, the teddy boy collection has a lot in common with this. Same with the gypsy musicians one. SS07 doves.

    I'm just fucking happy about this. I'll post my favourite looks later.
    I'm buying all the tweeds and the khaki pants are glorious. The oatmeal shawl collar coat is sick.

    The pinstripe 3 piece suit is....just look at the close up pics....NUTS

    Maybe Goro is doing the jewelery

    PS: I don't mind the footwear...yohji's clothing works with sneakers irl, even a pair of NB and you are good to go. He's always wearing red wing, george cox, not very luxury really.
    Question is, is it self-referential or mere recycling of old ideas?

  10. #30
    Senior Member TarHeart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by H-R View Post
    Question is, is it self-referential or mere recycling of old ideas?
    I thought this to myself as well. "Self-referential" sounds like an euphemism.
    Although, I really like the way it sounds, because I don't want to
    believe that Yohji is getting old and tired.

    I was really happy to see this collection. I didn't think it was fantastic, but it was good.
    It's so nice to see classic Yohji again, it really is.

    I agree about the negative comments about the Y3-shoes.
    They simply destroy and devaluate the feeling of the show.

  11. #31

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    "I sometimes feel that Iím repeating myself. And that bothers me. After many years, I made a new way for myself to design things and I became my own competitor. Itís hard to bear. I know what Iím saying sounds silly. But being a designer means that you get well-known, you succeed in your business, yet get to be a great creator. Itís very hard to cope with. You have to be a part of this world and at the same time keep your distance. One question constantly picks at my brain; after this, what can I offer thatís new? But I understand now that people donít want to know about this side of my life. It took me ten years to understand this."

    Yohji Yamamoto
    let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

  12. #32

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    I dunno, I think Eternal kind of has a point. Sometimes I think Yohji is so exalted as a designer, or at least his fans are so hardcore about him, that one can end up rationalizing some pretty questionable things. There's much to like here, looks like classic Yohji so if that's your thing I can understand digging this collection, but this look is just terrible no matter how you slice it (and not just because of the model, I'm a fan of Yohji's all inclusive model casting). It looks like a horrible sweater my out of touch grandma bought me from JCPenny with some flea market corduroys and running shoes.

  13. #33
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    I wonder if the collection is self-referential because Yohji has become merely a face of the company without actually designing. Just a speculation, but I wouldn't be surprised.

    Anyway, it was a beautiful collection, except the last part of velvet robes with Eves. Thanks, but no thanks. The first serious of greys are so gorgeous though. And casting Karl Marx was a brilliant enough move to justify loving the entire show.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  14. #34

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    HQs

    let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

  15. #35

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    let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

  16. #36

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    let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

  17. #37

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    let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

  18. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    I wonder if the collection is self-referential because Yohji has become merely a face of the company without actually designing. Just a speculation, but I wouldn't be surprised.
    I don't like to admit this, but this is a thought I've also had. It's a solid collection in what seems to be a selection of Yohji-isms: the usual wide trousers, wrinkled processed suits, bathrobe-like outerwear, gabardine suits replete with August Sander references, chunky knits and a splash of vivid colour/prints. To my mind what's missing is the interplay of details that reveal a sartorial search/exploration (think 07SS the 'suspenders' collection) or tell us a story (08SS the 'lost soliders' collection).

    The only 'new' thing I saw here was this particular shirt/jacket hybrid with flat lapels and raw seams. Not that it really matters anyway, I'm pretty sure Yohji fans will love the beautiful looking tweeds, including myself.

    let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.

  19. #39
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    i've also noticed the hybrid (or layering) on a coat at post #9

    http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/w...s/82513633.jpg

  20. #40

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    i don't want to get into body fascism but there is no reason for anyone to be as fat as that one model and certainly no reason to put him on the runway. Put down the entenmans.

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