Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme FW11 Paris

[Avantster]

"I sometimes feel that I’m repeating myself. And that bothers me. After many years, I made a new way for myself to design things and I became my own competitor. It’s hard to bear. I know what I’m saying sounds silly. But being a designer means that you get well-known, you succeed in your business, yet get to be a great creator. It’s very hard to cope with. You have to be a part of this world and at the same time keep your distance. One question constantly picks at my brain; after this, what can I offer that’s new? But I understand now that people don’t want to know about this side of my life. It took me ten years to understand this."

Yohji Yamamoto

[casem]

I dunno, I think Eternal kind of has a point. Sometimes I think Yohji is so exalted as a designer, or at least his fans are so hardcore about him, that one can end up rationalizing some pretty questionable things. There's much to like here, looks like classic Yohji so if that's your thing I can understand digging this collection, but this look is just terrible no matter how you slice it (and not just because of the model, I'm a fan of Yohji's all inclusive model casting). It looks like a horrible sweater my out of touch grandma bought me from JCPenny with some flea market corduroys and running shoes.

[Faust]

I wonder if the collection is self-referential because Yohji has become merely a face of the company without actually designing. Just a speculation, but I wouldn't be surprised.

Anyway, it was a beautiful collection, except the last part of velvet robes with Eves. Thanks, but no thanks. The first serious of greys are so gorgeous though. And casting Karl Marx was a brilliant enough move to justify loving the entire show.

[Avantster]

HQs

[Avantster]

[Avantster]

[Avantster]

[Avantster]

I wonder if the collection is self-referential because Yohji has become merely a face of the company without actually designing. Just a speculation, but I wouldn't be surprised.

I don't like to admit this, but this is a thought I've also had. It's a solid collection in what seems to be a selection of Yohji-isms: the usual wide trousers, wrinkled processed suits, bathrobe-like outerwear, gabardine suits replete with August Sander references, chunky knits and a splash of vivid colour/prints. To my mind what's missing is the interplay of details that reveal a sartorial search/exploration (think 07SS the 'suspenders' collection) or tell us a story (08SS the 'lost soliders' collection).

The only 'new' thing I saw here was this particular shirt/jacket hybrid with flat lapels and raw seams. Not that it really matters anyway, I'm pretty sure Yohji fans will love the beautiful looking tweeds, including myself.

[nqth]

i've also noticed the hybrid (or layering) on a coat at post #9

http://i730.photobucket.com/albums/ww307/kitonomics/82513633.jpg

[kunk75]

i don't want to get into body fascism but there is no reason for anyone to be as fat as that one model and certainly no reason to put him on the runway. Put down the entenmans.

[Mail-Moth]

^Body fascism indeed. But I don't want to enter in this kind of considerations.

On another note, Kunk, you'd look great on Yohji. And I am 100% serious.

[kunk75]

^many people have said that actually. I've owned a few things over the years and more voluminous stuff would probably reduce the inverted triangle effect I often have. Despite the fact that I should probably shy away from very slim pants which exaggerate my big upper small lower shape, I always come back to them. Must be the scandinavian in me.

[casem]

I'll add that look is equally bad. Maybe with different trousers the knit could be OK. On a positive note, watched the video and the slow acoustic music with the unhurried presentation on a variety of folks made for quite a moving presentation, highlighting the sort of comfort and resignation Mail-Moth spoke of.

And last. the infamous look with the overweight model. I could make those pieces work and look good. I can't find a difference between that look and the slim guy wearing a cream knit with red lips...just the model and nobody mentioned that look as being terrible.

[tweeds]

There is a lot of work put into the back of the jackets, I'm sure lots of details will come up in the flesh.

Noticed this as well when I watched the video, the details around the jacket vents are something I want to see properly. Anyone seen detail pics?

[ES3K]

i don't want to get into body fascism but there is no reason for anyone to be as fat as that one model and certainly no reason to put him on the runway.

Why exactly? I loved this guy (and his JC Penny knit). Reminded me of Rainer Werner Fassbinder. I'm kind of bored by all these "Latvian and Slovenian boy models" (Tyler Brûlé)