Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme FW11 Paris

[kunk75]

pleny of middle ground between waifs and the obese

[kunk75]

^ha, when i saw junya's collection I said Deadwood out loud

[Torchiere]

I feel indifferent about Yohji's graphics. I get that they're playful, but I find them to be a little too explicit. I prefer when he makes references through more implicit details like cutting, patterns, styling.

My favorite looks:



All pretty standard yohji fare, but it works.

[BECOMING-INTENSE]

I prefer when he makes references through more implicit details like cutting, patterns, styling.

Yes, this is where it works well, when he becomes too literal not so much.

[cremaster]

I love the eclectic use of models, the sense of humour is much appreciated in a world (of fashion) that takes itself far too seriously.
How boring is it to see the same shapes and faces (lacking any personality) treading the runway time after time.
Anyone can make a beautifully proportioned model look good on a runway, it takes some one who is extremely confident in their craft to send down odd shapes and sizes.

I agree with Wire, it would seem after his financial troubles he has taken a renewed vigour in his main lines. I love it.

[Faust]

Good question, if you look closely I think he's been playing with the same ideas from day one. He's always self-referential since he owns his playground.


I don't think he's just a face now, come on, look at the last 3 seasons lots of new pieces in there (and even a clear concept behind). aw10 was considered a recycling collection (even me) but on the racks it was a beautiful collection with crazy knit suits, hybrid overcoats and certainly a fair number of new concepts for pants. This spring is all about shirts, lots of nice takes on the vest/shirt concept and a line of research on collars.

I can't believe he's not designing his lines, that would be so contradictory with his work ethics...
The most important thing to me is that since aw08 I find his work extremely appealing. I would dare to say he's in better shape than ever. Only complaint is the outsourcing of the production in some cases like leather pieces.

MM put it beautifully.

Regarding the "new" stuff going on this time. The shirt jacket Avantster pointed out is not the only one I can spy. The pants have a distinctive cut that is not yohji's classic fair, It's a gut feeling. But I think the pants are a highlight this time and some serious thought is going on.
There is a lot of work put into the back of the jackets, I'm sure lots of details will come up in the flesh.
There is a new cut of blazer, a little elongated and rather slim for yohji.
You can see it in black and grey with some asymmetry in the mix (classic yohji trick)

And last. the infamous look with the overweight model. I could make those pieces work and look good. I can't find a difference between that look and the slim guy wearing a cream knit with red lips...just the model and nobody mentioned that look as being terrible.


I personally will stop thinking about yohji not designing, I truly love the clothes.

lol @ karl Marx...I'll add Karl Marx meets Coppola's Van Helsing.

Glad you like the Karl Marx reference.

I have to say, I have it on good authority that Yohji has been quite ill and quite disillusioned with the whole bankruptcy thing. But, show must go on.

[Faust]

Not this time, unfortunately. Just not enough hours in the day. Had to skip this and Lanvin.

[Faust]

hahaha, no problem :-)

[michael_kard]

I would love to see this in a black, the collar and the assymetry look amazing, very Ann in a way.

[syed]

^ Thank you! The music was lovely.

Upon consideration I have decided that this was my favourite look of the season. Admittedly it could just be that we have similar body types and I would like to look like him, but I really would like to get some more relaxed tailoring into my wardrobe. I want those trousers! Heck I even find the trainer choice, with the slim profile and sliver of colour, quite lovely.

I also really like the collar of the shirt and the spread when buttoned up. I was talking with my brother about shirts yesterday, because he had to buy some more for work. We were comparing the collars and cuts between the latest +J he had picked up and some Muji shirts he had picked up. The collar was softer on the Muji shirts and the spread had a nice angle, I feel the +J ones were far too acute, and the collars were too long in the fold. I have only ever tried on a couple of Yohji's shirts, but I always admire the collar when buttoned up fully. Small detail, but one I enjoy

[Fade to Black]

michael kard i'm not so sure i agree. in black that garment would be too obvious - I like to think Yohji is not so much so.

In that shade of green , the drape of that garment from which i can see in the picture add up to give me the impression of some vaguely enigmatic forest.

[michael_kard]

I agree with you when I look at his work the same way I observe high art; a black version would be less intense and "effective", without narrative, if you will.

However, when it comes to my personal clothing taste and stuff I'd like to own, I'd never wear such a bright colour. I wouldn't be able to pull it off, and if I ever did that means I'd have to be Elton John...

[myname]

Thank you for posting these pictures wire. artist.

After 6 months of looking at the runway photos, it's nice to see these clothes in a different way.

[stadsvandringar]

New season has been in stores in Japan for a few weeks now. A new shipment is supposed to arrive this week. Pieces look good, better than in the collection in my opinion. I'm not super fond of those photos either, I think it's the styling or something. Prices are of course insane. Even at 75% off it's just reasonable. Who can afford to pay full price I don't know.

[Faust]

/\ and that's in Japan? i can't wait to see US pricing.