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Thread: Ann Demeulemeester Men's FW11 Paris

  1. #1

    Default Ann Demeulemeester Men's FW11 Paris

    i do hope image size is seen as a plus rather than minus... if not, pm and i will do my best to replace with smaller...

    EDIT: LINKS HAVE BEEN REPAIRED but if they die again, see further down in thread for alternative images by becoming-intense et al.
















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    Last edited by Shucks; 02-25-2011 at 02:44 PM.

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    Last edited by Shucks; 02-25-2011 at 02:44 PM.

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    Last edited by Shucks; 02-25-2011 at 02:45 PM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member kofi3159's Avatar
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    Beautiful as always ANN
    And the large pics are perfect
    thx shucks

  5. #5

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    and a bonus because they are fucking amazing:

    Last edited by Shucks; 02-25-2011 at 02:46 PM.

  6. #6

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    ummmmmm.....

    what? underwhelming and repetitive. one note does not make a song.
    every man has inside himself a parasitic being who is acting not at all to his advantage

  7. #7

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    I disagree completely. I think she constantly finds ways to move things forward while remaining true to her vision. Who else but Rick can you say that about anymore?

  8. #8

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    aha she did a version of the triple lace for men??? i don't like this, way too much of her womens stuff on men and what macro said. if you're going to re-work everything i prefer the big hats, cropped pants, and over sized knits for the mens.

  9. #9

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    Can't wait to hear what Faust thinks about this.
    Kunk, I agree with you and I think this is solid, with plenty of stuff I have seen before reworked and evolved, but I liked SS11 so much that this feels like just the tiniest bit of a letdown...
    However, if this was Rick I would be all over it and praise the consistent vision, etc etc blah blah. Guess I selfishly wanted her to drop the waist-coated poet stuff in favour of something more minimal, as she did in SS11.
    Hi. I like your necklace. - It's actually a rape whistle, but the whistle part fell off.

  10. #10

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    some might argue that I look ridiculous in Rick too but while I love ann, very little of her stuff works for me. I actually like and appreciate some of her simplest stuff that is more utilitarian, the repeat drawstring pants, the outerwear and vests and such are always killer. I am not sure what childhood issue allows me to wear skirted pants but avoid the forelorn poet look.

  11. #11

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    Might just be an acute feeling that you belong in the 21st rather than the 19th century? Not said flippantly.
    Hi. I like your necklace. - It's actually a rape whistle, but the whistle part fell off.

  12. #12

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    yes, that is actually probably exactly what it is. My almost fetishistic love of only a handful of designers probably saves me money and certainly saves me time come fashion week.

  13. #13

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    Going to need some time to look these over again, but I am definitely leaning towards the positive here. Sure there are a lot of core pieces repeated throughout the looks, but really there is so much interesting detail throughout that it never feels boring or repetetive to me.

    Is the layered double-button waist piece a cumberbund/belt or is it attached to some sort of vest? Can't tell from the pics. Some of the solid slim pants look amazing, loving the cream colored ones and all of the lighter colored looks in general. Are those "tinted" looking pants simply double layered?

  14. #14

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    awesome, can't wait to see better pics of those men's lace boots. hopefully i'll be able to find some 2nd hand/on sale.

  15. #15

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    First glance threw me for a loop, because it totally was not what I was expecting to see. However I am glad that happened. I really like the trousers throughout, and I am seriously going to have to save up for those gloves Really quite intrigued by the looks where the waists have what seem like three waistcoats layered.

  16. #16

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    tbh, i think there is also an issue of poor styling at play here. even though there is considerable/extraneous detailing (slashes/flaps/buttons) on jackets, waistcoats and blazers in view of my personal preferences, i do believe that there are alternative ways to wear many of these items that will do them better justice, or bring a different flavor to them. for starters, by keeping some of those jacket flaps buttoned and wearing simpler layers underneath.

    some of the longer jackets (frock coats?) are just beautiful and the different pants are something i will be looking at closely when they hit the shops. the three piece suit (with paint splash effect and notched lapels) looks like a fantastic cut - somehow both sharp and relaxed - and those grey dirty/streaked drop crotch pants are gorgeous. and the triple laces will be mine. combats with double straps are nice as well..

    that said, i really do not like the choice of color accents.
    Last edited by Shucks; 01-22-2011 at 11:47 AM.

  17. #17

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    Ah yes I wanted to ask, is the dropped crotch on the grey trousers new territory for Ann's menswear? I can't seem to remember seeing anything so prounounced in the past, save for some more subtle drops in the recent high-waisted pants (which I suppose could be emphasized by wearing them lower).

  18. #18

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    But to-night, at Mme. Verdurin’s, scarcely had the little pianist begun to play
    when, suddenly, after a high note held on through two whole bars, Swann saw it
    approaching, stealing forth from underneath that resonance, which was prolonged
    and stretched out over it, like a curtain of sound, to veil the mystery of its
    birth—and recognised, secret, whispering, articulate, the airy and fragrant
    phrase that he had loved. And it was so peculiarly itself, it had so personal a
    charm, which nothing else could have replaced, that Swann felt as though he had
    met, in a friend’s drawing-room, a woman whom he had seen and admired, once, in
    the street, and had despaired of ever seeing her again. Finally the phrase
    withdrew and vanished, pointing, directing, diligent among the wandering
    currents of its fragrance, leaving upon Swann’s features a reflection of its
    smile. But now, at last, he could ask the name of his fair unknown (and was told
    that it was the andante movement of Vinteuil’s SONATA for the piano and violin),
    he held it safe, could have it again to himself, at home, as often as he would,
    could study its language and acquire its secret.


    - Marcel Proust À la recherche du temps perdu

    Are you afraid of women, Doctor?
    Of course.

    www.becomingmads.com

  19. #19

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    I can't even say I own a huge amount of Ann but when it comes to presenting the new lines and pieces, she has a way of making other designers look like amateurs in certain areas.

    There's just no doubt that she has a remarkable talent and eye for layering and angles and balance...almost in way where she flirts with chaos but ends up with the most glorious kind of order.

    I won't get too far into it but she is the designer I look forward to the most when the time comes to reveal new work. And I agree with Kunk wholeheartedly...for my money, other than Rick...she always seems to move forward with new ideas while maintaining her signature style and consistency. I've written about 'vision' quite a bit but this is what I'm speaking about: She experiments with materials and plays with cuts masterfully and confidently. And it comes across in the presentation. Where some designers come across as playing with clothing, she is mastering it in my opinion.

    I wear (and prefer to wear) a lot more Rick than I do Ann. And in the big scope of vision and aesthetic, I relate to some other designers more on a personal taste level. But Ann is one of the few designers that makes me wish I could carry off a more refined/polished look. I just have a shit ton of respect for her, what she does and how she pulls it off.

    I can't even say I like this more than some of the past few seasons but in terms of craftsmanship and tailoring...it's always consistent and consistently impressive.
    Quote Originally Posted by mizzar View Post
    Sorry for being kind of a dick to you.

  20. #20

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    ^on your last point and even more so than carol. rick owens and ann d. seem to have a singularly focused vision of what a man should wear as opposed to carol's vision, which I get the feeling, often is partly based on an inside joke that no one but him is privy to.

    While rick s/s collections are often a fail IMO, I marvel at her ability to play with fabric weight and layering while still maintaining a vision which is also a big part of what separates our beloved designers from "fashion" — you could effortlessly mix ann pieces (and rick not to beat a dead horse) from this season with pieces from 10, 12 years ago without deliterious effect and how many designers can you say that about?

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