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Theysken's Theory SS11

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  • Servo2000
    Senior Member
    • Oct 2006
    • 2183

    Theysken's Theory SS11

    Collection is up at style.com.

    Theory CEO Andrew Rosen has made Olivier Theyskens fans into some very happy girls. The 32-year-old Theyskens' new collection for the label will retail for over 20 percent more than the brand's main collection, but at $600 to $700, the jackets are still a fraction of what his designs once went for at Nina Ricci and Rochas. "I had been looking for a more personal project," he said at an informal presentation on the roof of the company's Gansevoort Street headquarters today. "I've found it at Theory. It's the right position in terms of quality, price."

    Talking editors through the collection, he pointed out that the fabrics mostly come from Italy and Japan, while the clothes are made in America and China. The look? Belgian, with lots of sharp, imaginative tailoring. Some pieces were lingerielike, dressed in prints based on Theyskens' own paintings; and there was a wide array of denim, from high-waisted flares to cornflower blue cropped jeans specially treated to look permanently wrinkled.

    Most of the blazers are designed with a triangle cut from the back of the collar. "It's what I do to mine," said Theyskens, explaining that he likes the look of jackets with shoulders shrugged forward. Hems, too, were often cut away, and shirts had splices up the side seams so they can be worn with the front tucked in and the back pulled out. The attenuated, elongated silhouettes won't look unfamiliar to those who recall Theyskens' Nina Ricci collections. The small crowd oohed and aahed especially appreciatively for a thin rib-knit sweater that left an inch or two of a model's flat stomach exposed above a floor-grazing skirt.
    Some of it also appears to be on sale at Barneys.

    I couldn't find any discussion about the collections anywhere outside of the original threads announcing the line and I just got the notice from Barneys that it's in stores now so I thought it was fitting. If not, feel free to remove the thread.
    WTB: Rick Owens Padded MA-1 Bomber XS (LIMO / MOUNTAIN)
  • JoniF
    Senior Member
    • May 2009
    • 251

    #2
    I have been wanting to post this collection, so here:










    Comment

    • JoniF
      Senior Member
      • May 2009
      • 251

      #3









      Comment

      • JoniF
        Senior Member
        • May 2009
        • 251

        #4









        Comment

        • JoniF
          Senior Member
          • May 2009
          • 251

          #5




          Comment

          • Faust
            kitsch killer
            • Sep 2006
            • 37849

            #6
            we already have all of this.
            Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

            StyleZeitgeist Magazine

            Comment

            • michael_kard
              Senior Member
              • Oct 2010
              • 2152

              #7
              this is nice but Faust is right, nothing new.
              ENDYMA / Archival fashion & Consignment
              Helmut Lang 1986-2005 | Ann Demeulemeester | Raf Simons | Burberry Prorsum | and more...

              Comment

              • tricotineacetat
                Senior Member
                • Aug 2009
                • 206

                #8
                The collection is fine for what it offers and at what price level you get decent quality. I am a long time admirer of Olivier's and have a few demi couture pieces from his previous tenure at Rochas in my personal archive that qualify as 'fashion history' - Certainly, you don't look for that in his Theory venture. Nonetheless, it's nice (and was maybe necessary) to see easy, daily wearable sportswear clothes that clearly have Olivier's touch in the fit, fabrics and detailing. Some people might think that such a turn towards commerciality equals a sell out, but I find it a great gesture to see one of fashion's most extravagantly luxurious designers producing a convincing clothing line that is accessible for a wider range of admirers.

                Comment

                • zamb
                  Senior Member
                  • Nov 2006
                  • 5834

                  #9
                  I dont see it as a sellout, but i see it as a misuse of his talents

                  He is one of the most naturally gifted and creative designers around, and i thought it was rather unfortunate after his string of Gigs at Rochas and Nina Ricci that he didn't just go back and do his own line,
                  Maybe he didn't want to be bothered with all the headaches that comes with that.

                  I honestly dont believe that this is the best use of his talents............at least not its strongest points.


                  Originally posted by tricotineacetat View Post
                  The collection is fine for what it offers and at what price level you get decent quality. I am a long time admirer of Olivier's and have a few demi couture pieces from his previous tenure at Rochas in my personal archive that qualify as 'fashion history' - Certainly, you don't look for that in his Theory venture. Nonetheless, it's nice (and was maybe necessary) to see easy, daily wearable sportswear clothes that clearly have Olivier's touch in the fit, fabrics and detailing. Some people might think that such a turn towards commerciality equals a sell out, but I find it a great gesture to see one of fashion's most extravagantly luxurious designers producing a convincing clothing line that is accessible for a wider range of admirers.
                  “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                  .................................................. .......................


                  Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                  Comment

                  • BECOMING-INTENSE
                    Senior Member
                    • Jan 2008
                    • 1868

                    #10
                    Yes, not a sellout per se, just rather depressing to
                    see such blandness, from the hands of Theyskens.
                    Are you afraid of women, Doctor?
                    Of course.

                    www.becomingmads.com

                    Comment

                    • fink
                      Member
                      • May 2009
                      • 34

                      #11
                      You got it. Boring and bland. With a touch of hooch. But then again, the average shopper at that store is um... Yeah .

                      Comment

                      • tricotineacetat
                        Senior Member
                        • Aug 2009
                        • 206

                        #12
                        Originally posted by zamb View Post
                        I dont see it as a sellout, but i see it as a misuse of his talents

                        He is one of the most naturally gifted and creative designers around, and i thought it was rather unfortunate after his string of Gigs at Rochas and Nina Ricci that he didn't just go back and do his own line,
                        Maybe he didn't want to be bothered with all the headaches that comes with that.

                        I honestly dont believe that this is the best use of his talents............at least not its strongest points.
                        After I heard that quite a few important members of Olivier's atelier decided to stay either at Nina Ricci or pursue other projects, it was clear to me he wouldn't pursue a solo venture... it simply wouldn't have worked for him to do the same degree of demi-couture without the resources of a traditional, Parisian 'maison couture' in his back. It simply wouldn't have made up for a believable high-end product unless someone gave him the means to build a proper atelier and make sure the sampling would go smoothly into production (I believe after having gone through all the mess with Procter & Gamble and the Puig group, the last thing he wanted was that someone would mess with his own name).

                        On the other hand, you have all the big couture houses presently in stable hands with other designers and I wouldn't have seen an investor with the believable force to revive yet another historical name such as Jacques Fath, Grès, Fortuny, Poiret or Schiaparelli, under whose name it would be mandatory to deliver all the couture expertise.

                        So yes, judging from that perspective, I think it was a smart move for him to propose an entirely different story - Something that still has his unmistakable sensitivity but does not aim to play in the same league as his previous work. He's tried hard to infuse Rochas and eventually Ricci with a sense of casualness which failed miserably and especially given the couture price points - and just as much as I dislike Andrew Rosen, he's given Olivier the backing to turn that side of his aesthetic into a product with great value and quality.

                        Comment

                        • Faust
                          kitsch killer
                          • Sep 2006
                          • 37849

                          #13
                          Originally posted by BECOMING-INTENSE View Post
                          Yes, not a sellout per se, just rather depressing to
                          see such blandness, from the hands of Theyskens.
                          W.O.R.D.
                          Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                          StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                          Comment

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