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ADAM KIMMEL FW11

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  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37852

    #16
    Indeed, Muuma, I have - plenty of it. Where and alongside whom he is stocked may have some relevance in terms of how a collection can be viewed, but if I tell you that here he is stocked at Bergdorf, that takes on another, less savory dimension, doesn't it?

    Yes, you could draw parallels with Margiela's blandest efforts - but the thing is that Margiela has done plenty of mind-blowing stuff beside the v-necks sweaters, and Kimmel has not. I don't think the VB comparison holds much water. Her men are far removed from the working class gentlemen presented here, or from the hipster-wants-to-look-like-an-English-professor looks Kimmel had done in the past.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

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    • philip nod
      Senior Member
      • Aug 2007
      • 5903

      #17
      i often wear a waffle fabric tux lapel blazer that he made a few years ago that i get as many, if not more compliments, than the fencing. also been wearing a great oversized cashmere long coat lately that is a great anecdote to all the testicle hugging panty dropping flavors of the month. kimmel is in his own world doing his own thing following his own inspirations to his own ends. if you got that going for you, you're doing pretty good.
      One wonders where it will end, when everything has become gay.

      Comment

      • Real Real
        Senior Member
        • Feb 2007
        • 619

        #18
        Originally posted by Faust View Post
        Where and alongside whom he is stocked may have some relevance in terms of how a collection can be viewed, but if I tell you that here he is stocked at Bergdorf, that takes on another, less savory dimension, doesn't it?
        Bergdorf stopped selling Adam Kimmel a couple of years ago, I think once Barneys started selling it.

        Yes, you could draw parallels with Margiela's blandest efforts - but the thing is that Margiela has done plenty of mind-blowing stuff beside the v-necks sweaters, and Kimmel has not. I don't think the VB comparison holds much water. Her men are far removed from the working class gentlemen presented here, or from the hipster-wants-to-look-like-an-English-professor looks Kimmel had done in the past.
        There is design in the fabrics and the way the clothing is cut - with a subtlety that reminds me of what I like in designers like Margiela, Yohji, Pilati's YSL. Some comments on a few of the Kimmel pieces that I own:

        -a heavy black leather (horsehide?) jacket with a padded lining in a gauzy, golden fabric. Terrific quality leather, well proportioned, masculine, nice pockets.

        -one of the 3 in 1 jackets: waterproof belted navy cotton DB trench on one side, black wool/cashmere lining (the lining could be its own coat, though I wouldn't wear it that way). It feels loose on, but doesn't look that way, to me, at least.

        -black/dark-green plush wide-wale corduroy suit, with wider lapels and a low button stance....slouchy, comfortable fit, moves with me.

        I wonder if the presentation is getting in the way of you appreciating the actual pieces. I find the presentation of some of his most recent collections to be gimmicky, and some of the materials I've seen haven't been up to the standard of previous collections. Have you looked at the Fall 2008 collection recently? I think that's his best one, by far.

        Comment

        • snafu
          Senior Member
          • Apr 2008
          • 2135

          #19
          his models are obviously his friends: some look pretty familiar.

          I quite like his stuff, never owned anything before but come close quite a few times. But faust your right im not from the US and it makes me look at it in different way.
          .

          Comment

          • Faust
            kitsch killer
            • Sep 2006
            • 37852

            #20
            Originally posted by Real Real View Post

            I wonder if the presentation is getting in the way of you appreciating the actual pieces. I find the presentation of some of his most recent collections to be gimmicky, and some of the materials I've seen haven't been up to the standard of previous collections. Have you looked at the Fall 2008 collection recently? I think that's his best one, by far.
            Well, it's fashion, and so presentation is a part of it. Again, there is fashion and there is nice clothes. There is room for both and I can appreciate both, but I don't to conflate the two.
            Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

            StyleZeitgeist Magazine

            Comment

            • copacetic
              Senior Member
              • Nov 2010
              • 209

              #21
              I think that if this were an editorial spread on Americana in an Asian fashion mag, I would have gotten a kick out of it.

              But it's not, so it just makes me sad. It's all about context, I suppose...
              And "When the prince has gathered about him
              "All the savants and artists, his riches will be fully employed."

              Canto XIII, Ezra Pound

              Comment

              • Real Real
                Senior Member
                • Feb 2007
                • 619

                #22
                Right now, I'm wearing my Kimmel black double-faced cashmere knit blazer, drinking white bordeaux, waiting for the dunk contest to begin.

                There's something about this jacket - non-referential, both voluptuous and appropriate, casual and formal - that feels both completely new and very American to me. I just hope that Kimmel keeps making stuff like this - and not logoed denim shirts for Colette or some shit like that.

                Some of the stuff I've been having made is influenced by Kimmel - work shirts made from DJA sea island cotton, stuff like that.

                (People love that waffle textured fabric. I have that tuxedo blazer too - got it off of Yoox. I wish the thing just breathed a bit better, it can get pretty hot.)

                Comment

                • eat me
                  Senior Member
                  • May 2009
                  • 648

                  #23
                  It looks to me as if someone had a thought "let's put together a collection out of pieces sourced from a vintage shop" and came up with this. Quite a bizarre effort, but I'm sure there will be people to buy it.

                  Comment

                  • STEALTH
                    Senior Member
                    • Feb 2008
                    • 250

                    #24
                    if you look at the second picture

                    I do not think there is anything in that outfit that is not "wrong"

                    And by "wrong" I mean ugly

                    And by "ugly" I mean displeasing to look at.

                    Its all mismatched , dumb and dull.

                    Why is the top tucked into the hideous jeans and why no belt ?

                    Is he seeing what he can get away with ?

                    Is it all a send-up ??

                    Is he a comic genius ??

                    I hope he hates the people who buy his clothes instead of the same type of stuff they could easily pick up in any generic mall and that this is his revenge on them
                    https://www.facebook.com/Marc.Stealth.Kaos

                    Comment

                    • STEALTH
                      Senior Member
                      • Feb 2008
                      • 250

                      #25
                      But why are the pieces styled so badly ?

                      Outfits so badly put together

                      Its like aesthetic dyslexia.

                      It seems almost willfully bad.

                      Since when is it okay to wear a "Dickie-Bow" Tie in public without looking like a pretentious prick ?
                      https://www.facebook.com/Marc.Stealth.Kaos

                      Comment

                      • Faust
                        kitsch killer
                        • Sep 2006
                        • 37852

                        #26
                        Since hipster irony has become the dominating trend in certain NYC circles. See, it's not shit when THEY do it.
                        Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                        StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                        Comment

                        • eat me
                          Senior Member
                          • May 2009
                          • 648

                          #27
                          Originally posted by Chilton0326
                          <...> but the most popular pieces I see people loving on SZ (and any other fashion forum) are essentially normal-looking boots or derbies that are simply very well made. <...>
                          I'm not sure about "other forums", SZ is the only fashion forum I'm reading, but the boots favoured here (CD, MA+, Augusta, Guidi, CCP) are anything but "normal-looking that are simply well-made".

                          Comment

                          • STEALTH
                            Senior Member
                            • Feb 2008
                            • 250

                            #28
                            Originally posted by Chilton0326
                            I think the criticism toward Kimmel here is the same sort of criticism directed to Jasper Morrison for his Crate Series of Furniture:

                            Did he wear stupid looking ties and tuck his garish shirt into his ugly looking jeans worn with no belt then ?
                            https://www.facebook.com/Marc.Stealth.Kaos

                            Comment

                            • glencoe
                              Junior Member
                              • Feb 2010
                              • 2

                              #29
                              I wonder at what point buyers at DSM, Colette and likes go "you know what we need to spice things up? A bit of that good ol' washed up Americana!"

                              Comment

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