Hussein Chalayan FW11 Paris

[droogist]

There's just no pleasing some people, is there.

It's a beautiful, sober collection, very much on a continuum with the current S/S. The video is absolutely pitch-perfect.

[Faust]

There's just no pleasing some people, is there.

It's a beautiful, sober collection, very much on a continuum with the current S/S. The video is absolutely pitch-perfect.

Well, you spoiled us, so

[laika]

hmmm. i'm surprised at the lack of enthusiasm, especially since this is such a beautifully executed accompaniment to the s/s collection....which, if i recall correctly, was very well received on sz.

i like so much that he has lingered conceptually with this aesthetic interpretation of japanese history, while not simply repeating familiar signatures...continuity without repetition is a scarce quality among fashion designers, even (or especially?) among those most frequently discussed here.

i find this elegant, androgynous and also really sexy...all in a fresh and surprising way. i also see at least 5 pieces right of the bat that i will desperately want and I haven't felt that way about a Chalayan show in years...those tailored pieces with the dropped button stance that subtly reference the wrapped kimono dresses and tops...

[kucejoe]

It's a beautiful, sober collection.

I like this, especially, as you describe it, the sober aspect. I'm finding so many of the recent collections over-styled and this is so good precisely because it is not.

[tweeds]

Like the sleeve-to-pocket idea here, in the same way as the Jil pieces this A/W...

Felt that this film paled in comparison to the dynamism of the previous 'Sakoku' video, though. The connection between sound and visuals was also much stronger in the previous film.

[droogist]

hmmm. i'm surprised at the lack of enthusiasm, especially since this is such a beautifully executed accompaniment to the s/s collection....which, if i recall correctly, was very well received on sz.

i like so much that he has lingered conceptually with this aesthetic interpretation of japanese history, while not simply repeating familiar signatures...continuity without repetition is a scarce quality among fashion designers, even (or especially?) among those most frequently discussed here.

I felt the same, but I've given up trying to reason with this bunch. If I were Hussein it'd probably do my head in, having to listen to everybody whinge every single season about how he's not doing exactly the same stuff he was doing 10 years ago (the irony being that, as you've said, he's obviously been honing a signature look these past few years).

From the moment I clapped eyes on the burgundy fabric story, I knew this would be right up your alley. It's right up mine too, of course. Just look at this motherfucking dress. What could be better?

[Lumina]

Love the winter yukata indeed !
I also really like the beige and black dresses in the end, but what striked me the most are these pieces :

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/3131/027m9825549.jpg

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/2818/028m9825563.jpg

At first I thought it was a play with the light spots, the pattern looks like there is a shadow passing upon the garnment, amazing !

[safeword123]

absolutely gorgeous

[BECOMING-INTENSE]

I felt the same, but I've given up trying to reason with this bunch. If I were Hussein it'd probably do my head in, having to listen to everybody whinge every single season about how he's not doing exactly the same stuff he was doing 10 years ago (the irony being that, as you've said, he's obviously been honing a signature look these past few years).

From the moment I clapped eyes on the burgundy fabric story, I knew this would be right up your alley. It's right up mine too, of course. Just look at this motherfucking dress. What could be better?

I'm not whingeing, but just because you wish for "moments" he
did ten years ago doesn't mean you want him to do the same.
Though I don't think we have to go that long back to see him doing
something special. Actually I was one of those who thought the last
summer collection was quite special.

And this does develops well from there and connects beautifully,
but I must admit the presentation/video was a real let down.
The clothing in them self wasn't.
Really beautiful and fluid.

[slalom]

The sleeve to pocket effect was done brilliantly in the past.

I think this is a fluid transition from his last collection. Hopefully, this is a sign for his best work to come.

[laika]

I felt the same, but I've given up trying to reason with this bunch. If I were Hussein it'd probably do my head in, having to listen to everybody whinge every single season about how he's not doing exactly the same stuff he was doing 10 years ago (the irony being that, as you've said, he's obviously been honing a signature look these past few years).

From the moment I clapped eyes on the burgundy fabric story, I knew this would be right up your alley. It's right up mine too, of course. Just look at this motherfucking dress. What could be better?

I was thinking that the depth and deliberation with which he articulates a particular concept has no doubt made it difficult for him to establish obvious aesthetic signatures. I'm not being very articulate myself, but it's almost like he's so loyal to a concept that it becomes utterly inseparable from its particular expression in a given collection. There's an amazing intellectual integrity in this, but I suppose it can make the individual collections difficult to "read," visually. especially if you're not totally obsessed with getting in the man's brain, like some of us.

so the sobriety you mentioned, as well as the relative lack of theater that some are missing is not only appropriate but integral to the cultural [japanese] moment that's being interpreted here.

dress is amazing, one of my favorite things, and i can easily imagine it in your collection! i'm really taken with this....



and also these



as well as the yukatas that wire mentioned....