Haider Ackermann Womens FW11

[droogist]

I feel like I must be looking at different collection than everyone else. It's very nice when he keeps it simple, but so much of this looks so ridiculously overwrought - way too much going on, way too much satin, and the wide belts are just awkward. This sort of thing looks like an entry in an amateur styling contest:

[BECOMING-INTENSE]

I don't know. There's some nice garments there but to me
it's becoming a bit too opulent and lavish. The combination of
drape, colour and fabric choice, to much shine/sheen all over.
Maybe in smaller doses and in another light I will be able to appreciate it.

[safeword123]

totally hate the wide belt. it is as if it were used to be an anchoring point among that sea of draping and fabric. but i am afraid it totally failed for me.

and the look on that black model is disastrous, esp. from the side view.

this actually makes me love raf's jil sander even more. cool, collected, precise and to the point.

[diamonds]

http://thesartorialist.blogspot.com/2011/03/haider-ackermann-fall-2011.html

these photos cemented my feelings about this collection. fucking gorgeous.

[tricotineacetat]

It's really beyond my understanding how this collection receives such unproportional amount of praise from every direction, when most of the problems of Haider Ackermann's style - particularly the reliance on styling tricks to create his work-in-progress runway silhouettes - are still not worked out to a clearer, more precise and mature offering as would have to be expected from a designer that is being hailed as the possible successor of a major Parisian couture house such as Chanel or Dior - You don't expect a designer of that calibre to still drape silk sashes that come undone on the model and call these a top, a dress or anything in between. In that regard, I completely understand any of the female contributors here that express rather reserved sentiments about this collection.

I'm not questioning the overall aesthetic of Haider Ackermann's work, but he can hardly be seen as an upstart, young talent after having shown collections for 10 years, in which his clothes still fit awkwardly, are selling quite badly in most stores and require massive editing from runway to shop floor - clearly he wouldn't be designing under his own name if Anne Chapelle wasn't good enough to finance him a seat in the ivory tower in which he can afford to continue designing very photogenic and pretty runway collections without the pressure of delivering commercially valid (and yet interesting) clothing.

[Faust]

I can see what the girls (and the boys) are saying and I was not a fan of the spring-summer collection for that exact reason, but I think there is more structure here and less flowy stuff - so there is improvement on that front.

I often wonder about why sometimes there is a disconnect between female and male opinions here. I guess that's because guys don't have to wear this, don't have to think about working it into their wardrobes, so for us the fantasy element is more obvious than for the women.

[sagill1119]

OMFG!!!!i love it

[Johnny]

I'm more on the droogist/trico side, but there are some beautiful clothes there when the styling is kept simpler. However for me it's just too dramatic and costumey. The clothes would totally dominate the woman, and, basically, when that happens, I think it's a fail. One other observation - I looked at his summer collection last week in the stores and was quite surprised at how cheap it felt, both in terms of the fabrics and in particular the way the stuff was manufactured. They just didn't have the feel of being quality garments. Anyone else think this?

[Faust]

/\ Hmmm, I actually quite liked the limited selection that I saw in the fall (Saks did a presentation for Haider, so they flew some clothes in then) - I was particularly enamored with the black blazer with red lapels - the fabric was very soft and the colors very rich. The leathers are very nice also. Having said that - I have in the fairly recent past seen Haider's staff that looked and felt quite average (especially at the prices they fetch).

[old]

http://thesartorialist.blogspot.com/...fall-2011.html

these photos cemented my feelings about this collection. fucking gorgeous.

That first photo really brought the colour and the texture alive and it's taking my breath away.

But after going through the collection again, I can see where all the criticism about lack a finishing came from.

[MetroBulotDodo]

I've bought a few Haider pieces over the last few seasons -- at extreme discount, since his rack prices are extraordinary -- and just as with Rick, if you selectively subtract from what is ultimately seen on the runway, you do end up with gorgeous classics here and there. (The jackets I own are fantastic.) One must have a keen eye though, since putting the pieces together as they appear on the runway will run $10k, easily -- not that I ever suggest wearing an entire runway ensemble as is.

In general, however, I am with the women re: his collection. It's impossible for me to look at his runway presentation and think: would I wear that? For a majority of the looks, unless I were at an embassy cocktail party, which happens, you know, frequently, would be a resounding "no." The gender divide that distinguishes the responses from one another hardly surprise: men can enjoy the fantasy that stays on the runway; I, on the other hand, am thinking about how he cuts his clothes for 6' amazons and won't cut a pair of pants for anyone beyond that fantasy 6' amazon, who has a lot of money and loves jeweled satins.

That said, it's clear that he's a phenomenal talent - I'm looking forward to the day when I can pine for his designs because I'll be able to wear what he makes.

MBD