random fashion thoughts

[Faust]

Is avant-garde still an useful category? And anti-fashion exists? Where?

I mean, for me is already difficult to talk about avant-garde and avant-gardism about the work of the japanese in early '80 or Margiela's work. Maybe only to distinguish a certain style or way of working? Anti-fashion also, maybe worst then "avant-garde" - because "avant-garde" brings with it a certain type of signification -, because those designers anyway showed their works in the same ways - catwalks, interview, magazines etc. I see fashion as a system which eats everything that happens in its territory and a motion of deterritorialization is extremely hard. - I think CCP in the same space with MMM and japanese because of the way of showing the works so, another time, catwalks, interviews, appearances on mainstream magazines etc. (sure the quality and quantity is different but the spaces are the same imo) -.
Altieri's work is a bit different only because there weren't interviews and magazines appearances - maybe purple e co. was too busy with Margiela and Lang? Maybe he doesn't really found a way to communicate his work instead of just refusing it? - and he only showed their work at the X18, San Martino in Campo etc. but also form him I would not talk about avant-garde or anti-fashion. I prefer talking about pushing the limits of fashion system and its rules. I prefer talking in terms of an athletic movement instead using a category that maybe a designer like him doesn't really appreciate.

I see more life in those terms.

What do you think?

You'd need to define both "avant-garde" and "anti-fashion" so we know we are talking about the same thing. Because to me they sound very different. Avant-garde to me simply means pushing aesthetic boundaries. Anti-fashion means setting itself against the fashion system. By fashion system I don't merely the mechanics (i.e. designers makes clothes, sets up a showroom, sells to stores, repeat), but the system and its relationships (mainstream designers, stores, media, etc. that are in constant feedback loop.).

If you agree on those terms, CDiem and Poell fall both in the avant-garde and anti-fashion. Rick, Yohji, Ann fall into first, but not the second. With avant-garde, as Dudley points out, context matters - especially time and place. Margiela, absolutely and definitively avant-garde.

[Scander]

Avant-garde to me simply means pushing aesthetic boundaries.

Ok, for me more then pushing aesthetic boundaries is to propose an alternative. Maybe we mean the same thing but we prefer to use different words.

Anti-fashion means setting itself against the fashion system. By fashion system I don't merely the mechanics (i.e. designers makes clothes, sets up a showroom, sells to stores, repeat), but the system and its relationships (mainstream designers, stores, media, etc. that are in constant feedback loop.).

Anti-fashion yes means setting itself against the fashion system, but 'cause of the mechanics and relationships I think is a meaningless "category". Meaningless for an accurate consideration when thinking over about this. In a more "easy" way I find that category useful to describe and sketch out a general image about those designer - as you said CD e CCP -. Not that is incorrect, in my opinion improper at all.

If you agree on those terms, CDiem and Poell fall both in the avant-garde and anti-fashion. Rick, Yohji, Ann fall into first, but not the second. With avant-garde, as Dudley points out, context matters - especially time and place. Margiela, absolutely and definitively avant-garde.

Here, CD in a first analysis anti-fashion. Instead I prefer thinking Poell with Yohji, Rick, Ann. I understand why can be seen also "anti-fashion" but for me the appearances on vogue, GQ, bazaar uomo etc. throw him in that "category". And yes, Margiela absolutely and definitively avant-garde in that first moment.

[Faust]

I think you are talking about Poell pre-Poell (before "Mainstream-Downstream"). He also does not show on the runway.

[PoubelleMaBelle]

old-hat around here, but still a nice little piece

funny to read the replies to Youtube commenters seeking advice for ethical clothing (Diesel & Armani of course)

[casem]

^Really good, my favorite part is showing the hypocrisy of shows reporting on a poor factory conditions scandal one moment and hawking clothes from the very abusers the next.

[Rick-A-Doodle]

I saw a man at Blue Bottle in Brooklyn wearing WM/Chrome Hearts and some CCP boots that I pointed out (wasn't 100% sure so I figured I should ask). I wish/hope he was bewildered as to why a guy in road bike gear/lycra pointed them out.

*coolstory

[Faust]

People think we've got lowballing in classifieds - try selling a pair of Nike's on eBay. Jesus...

[Faust]

^Really good, my favorite part is showing the hypocrisy of shows reporting on a poor factory conditions scandal one moment and hawking clothes from the very abusers the next.

Excellent. Everyone should share this on their social media.

[yay]

i wish they would've delved a bit more into the other aspects of everything that is wrong with fastfashion, but still a very good video

[cjbreed]

People think we've got lowballing in classifieds - try selling a pair of Nike's on eBay. Jesus...

ebay has become ridiculous.

[TheDivinitus]

Speaking of ridiculous and Rick dresses... Like never before, I'm being charged with extra fees on my new dress from his Lilies line:

"We confirm that the Rick Owens Lilies is a taxable item as it's considered to be formal wear."

Ridiculous. Lilies does not fall under category of garments "not normally worn except while attending a formal function."

[gregor]

People think we've got lowballing in classifieds - try selling a pair of Nike's on eBay. Jesus...

i've found grailed to be just as bad lately

[HugAndWug]

i've found grailed to be just as bad lately

If it's not a hyped item people will be assholes for a long time to you. Like I feel like shit whenever I list something for more than I paid/it retails for but 99.9% of the people just send you offers over and over or try and haggle with you until they just say they're not interested in it. But if your item doesn't have multiple price drops/an offer button you're going to get very little interest. I just wish there was a happy medium between ebay and grailed culture.

[imblurredout]

If it's not a hyped item people will be assholes for a long time to you. Like I feel like shit whenever I list something for more than I paid/it retails for but 99.9% of the people just send you offers over and over or try and haggle with you until they just say they're not interested in it. But if your item doesn't have multiple price drops/an offer button you're going to get very little interest. I just wish there was a happy medium between ebay and grailed culture.

I feel like the only people on grailed are those who adore Kanye West...

[gregor]

If it's not a hyped item people will be assholes for a long time to you. Like I feel like shit whenever I list something for more than I paid/it retails for but 99.9% of the people just send you offers over and over or try and haggle with you until they just say they're not interested in it. But if your item doesn't have multiple price drops/an offer button you're going to get very little interest. I just wish there was a happy medium between ebay and grailed culture.

i tried putting up some marsells at 370, and immediately got offered 270. i took that, and then kept trying to haggle me down to 220.

i feel like there is a happy medium, but not one that's efficient for selling quickly.