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  • newp
    Senior Member
    • Feb 2013
    • 631

    I have finally completed my RO take on classic outfit: blazer, shirt (old season neck-back-buttons collar), tux pants, and next opportunity to wear it is in 3-4 months from now. Sometimes it sucks to live in South.

    Comment

    • Fenix
      Senior Member
      • Aug 2010
      • 522

      Originally posted by newp View Post
      Is anyone sad about recent branding appeared on most m.a+ accessories (belts, rings, bracelets) a season ago as much as me?
      Yeah, I didn't realize this and picked up a couple belts. What makes it worse is the way I've always worn my belts, the logo would be upside down. The belts feel less substantial than my older ones too.
      Originally posted by hausofblaq
      Grow up.

      Comment

      • lowrey
        ventiundici
        • Dec 2006
        • 8383

        what kind of branding are you referring to?
        "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."

        STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG

        Comment

        • newp
          Senior Member
          • Feb 2013
          • 631

          Originally posted by lowrey View Post
          what kind of branding are you referring to?
          Most m.a+ accessories now have 'm.a+' logo placed somewhere.





          Comment

          • lowrey
            ventiundici
            • Dec 2006
            • 8383

            huh, I've totally missed that. I wonder if they had it on the showroom samples because I didn't notice.

            Well, it's certainly discreet, though a bit unecessary.
            "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."

            STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG

            Comment

            • fncyths
              Senior Member
              • Apr 2010
              • 775

              37ING & Cantara : WTF are you children even talking about. Take that shit back to the sandbox

              Originally posted by Shucks
              it's like cocaine, only heavier. and legal.
              Originally posted by interest1
              I don't live in the past. But I do have a vacation home there.

              Comment

              • gregor
                Senior Member
                • Oct 2014
                • 603

                if you're petty enough to let other people wearing a brand dissuade you from doing the same, then you're no better than the people you're criticizing.

                i get the disgust with the mindless consumerism of the hong kong fashionista (not really specifically hong kong, just people who buy into trends aimlessly), but if you're avoiding a brand you like merely because other people like it, then you're just the reverse of the people you're talking about.

                Comment

                • Raviel de Silverlake
                  Junior Member
                  • Jun 2015
                  • 25

                  I'm kinda get what they said. Most people in their early twenties, or even older care a lot about being unique and they want to express themselves in a way that no other people could. I mean, in a fair general view you don't spend several thousands bill on clothing or footwear just to be subtle.. and Gregor, coming from HK I guess you had your fair share of youngster running around ruining the whole RO look with only their Geobasket and whatsoever clothing, right?

                  Comment

                  • DudleyGray
                    Senior Member
                    • Jul 2013
                    • 1143

                    This is really great:

                    bandcamp | facebook | youtube

                    Comment

                    • Faust
                      kitsch killer
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 37852

                      Paul Harnden is the Rick Owens of the middle aged cultural elite.
                      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                      Comment

                      • zamb
                        Senior Member
                        • Nov 2006
                        • 5834

                        Just say one of my neighbors who has a women's line.........
                        Said they are winding down the business, gonna be closing.
                        Is there any hope for the small guy anymore?
                        not a good way to start my morning
                        “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                        .................................................. .......................


                        Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                        Comment

                        • Faust
                          kitsch killer
                          • Sep 2006
                          • 37852

                          Originally posted by fit magna caedes
                          Different demographics in China and Japan, I'd say. Perhaps true in certain Anglo-European circles, but age profiles different in Asia.

                          But no, actually, I can't see it--those people (I can say "those", I'm not quite middle-aged yet ) don't do "grails" and in general don't acquire and wear pieces in the same way most Rick fans do. Harnden fandom is less overt, for a start (as befits, of course, the "cultural elite", ha). Not that all Rick fans dress/think in those kopster terms. But those who don't at all--the ones who just wear all-Rick as a lifestyle: they tend to be, well... on the older side. And "culturally privileged", if you catch my drift. Not much gap there--both going to the same gallery openings...

                          There's no doubt some class issues there, though (people wearing PH who feel they're "above" streetwear, with all the class/race overtones that implies), but overall I'd say gender is a bigger issue. Rick is just so much more queer than Harnden (for men, at least, different for women because Rick's woman seems pretty straight to me, or at best asexual).

                          Although... maybe I'm reading too much into it on the gender issue. I mean HBA could not be more queer if it was all cut from rainbow flags, but my prudish students still wear it with no apparent clue...
                          True, true. I was simply thinking in terms of "in the know."
                          Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                          StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                          Comment

                          • Defender
                            Banned
                            • Jan 2015
                            • 187

                            Originally posted by zamb View Post
                            Just say one of my neighbors who has a women's line.........
                            Said they are winding down the business, gonna be closing.
                            Is there any hope for the small guy anymore?
                            not a good way to start my morning
                            I think there is, but on a SMALL small scale.

                            Like, one offs and individually tailored.

                            I represent a lot of artists, and the death of many an artist is selling prints for $20 of art that took them 5 weeks to accomplish.

                            The only artists I represent that make a living sell one piece, usually on commission or with a patron paying for it, one at at time. Also, tattoo artists are doing gangbusters.

                            I think fashion designers could benefit from the same approach. Sell one pair of perfectly tailored pants as a custom order to one person instead of trying to sell 10, 100, or 1,000 online to the whole world.

                            Edited to add: The reason is it cuts almost all overhead, warehousing, transaction fees, and keeps the brand/art niche, and therefore desirable. I don't know if that could work with fashion the way it works with pottery or mixed media lighting installations, but it might.

                            Comment

                            • Arkady
                              Senior Member
                              • Apr 2011
                              • 957

                              Hard to generalize this way without specific numbers for the margins involved in each product / sku, and in the case of something like an illustrator or a composer -- whether your margins include the opportunity cost of the time spent on the particular piece.

                              Zam can comment on this strategy within fashion as he does a lot of custom orders.

                              Within design and illustration my experience suggests you're absolutely correct, I personally don't ever bother selling prints of my work or otherwise pushing it in atomized bursts.

                              With music it is a bit of a different story as the professional direction of composing for, say, a film is very different from working as a recording artist and the clientele often doesn't overlap. However, I would say at this point no one pays attention to record sales as they're meager and makes the bulk of their income through touring and licensing, so in a sense the approach is "bespoke." The performances are catalyzed and made possible by releasing originals and remixes, so both sides are necessary.

                              In a sense this is what studios like Zam's do with a combination of the main lines and the custom tailoring.

                              Comment

                              • Cantara
                                Member
                                • Mar 2015
                                • 62

                                Gregor I am specifically talking about the fashionistas I suppose. The kind of people who buy things for the hashtag and because something is "in". I also never stated I wouldn't wear PH now because everyone else is wearing it. That would be ridiculous. I was merely making an observation that I see so many 20 somethings now with the same PH fits running around NYC.

                                Comment

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