Since nobody has commented here on this designer yet, I'll start. This is the video linked to online at the SZ Magazine, for those who missed it:
See her website for more, you can download pdf's of all the designs. Some retail.
Her designs are some of the most compelling I've ever seen, and I like the use of horrific, fantastic, mythic and sci-fi elements throughout. When I saw the above image, I immediately thought of the moths in Perdido Street Station. Cringeworthy in the best way. The Medusa-body lady is also wonderfully grotesque. I thought at first Ms. van Houten reminded me a bit of Pugh, but then again she's not always playing with androgyny, because although grotesque, some of the figures are also unsettlingly appealing. She also reminds me a bit of Bruno Pieters because the designs are so geometrical, or perhaps they just appear that way because they're so anti-form-fitting. But comparisons are a dime a dozen, so I'll stop. She did intern with McQueen, though.
I'd like to hear others' thoughts. Let the pejorative, "costumey," be censored.
Oh, and one last, very important observation: