Rick Owens Mens FW 12

[Lane]

Count me in as well. I think this is one of his best collections.

lol

no surprise whatsoever

I dunno, maybe I just bought into certain aspects of rick, but this is too much for me.

[theconsumer]

To me, Rick effectively says: look, it's just slightly campy, architectural clothing in black. It's not about your personal authenticity more than your dinnerware. If you wear my jacket, that's like using a fork.

Not like e.g. Julius, which also sells you a bullshit manifesto, so you can feel authentic easier. I like their design, and their boots, but not their engrish tags.

[BECOMING-INTENSE]

Rick has always been more about camp [1] than darkness [...] Not saying I like it or even appreciate it, but it's consistent with his story.

[1] adj. being so extreme that it has an amusing and perversely sophisticated appeal.

You left so much out of your definition source ...

"When the usage appeared, in 1909, it denoted: ostentatious, exaggerated, affected,
theatrical, and effeminate behaviour, and, by the middle of the 1970s, the definition
comprised: banality, artifice, mediocrity, and ostentation so extreme as to have
perversely sophisticated appeal. American writer Susan Sontag's essay Notes on
"Camp" (1964) emphasised its key elements as: artifice, frivolity, naïve middle-
class pretentiousness, and ‘shocking’ excess."


But yes I do agree Rick Owens has definitely camp traces,
though there's nothing new in this, but it might have become
more obvious (for some) as of late.

[theconsumer]

Camp is terribly hard to define. You have to meditate on it and feel it intuitively, like Laotse’s Tao… Once you’ve done that, you’ll find yourself wanting to use the word whenever you discuss aesthetics or philosophy or almost anything.

But, let's keep it simple:

Camp derives from the French slang term se camper, meaning "to pose in an exaggerated fashion"

Like this

[Faust]

I don't care about the girl at the mall or the fashion blogger in rick either. I'm not above anyone of them.

What I care about is what seems like a calculation to look more like the typical fashion houses. It's not commercial as in H&M but it's commercial in the sense of what a lot of customers shopping at department stores like Barneys are looking for. I'm not going to put a certain demographic on their customer but you can probably figure it out yourself if you want to.

CDG is very commercial by now. The clothes are not commercial, but I'm sure they don't profit too much of the CDGH+ stuff anyways, just like every other "well established fashion house".

Do you realize that you are asking designers to make money while selling hardcore stuff only? How about you blame the lack of consumers? If there were consumers for this stuff, I am sure designers will be more than happy to make interesting things.

[Faust]

This has just become too fashiony for lack of a better word for me to describe rick, now. I liked that he always wanted his garments to be wearable, but his bold creations still didn't lack loudness regardless of this goal.

The darkness and anger is gone. I miss the all out aggression presented by his clothing, I like a little elegance infused in there but this is way too much, cmon.


I mean who is he designing for now? The same guy who bought rick combats and blistered leathers I find it hard to believe he'd go for one of these dresses or preppy looking tops/bottoms.

What the hell are you talking about? Burberry is fashiony, this is NOT.

[neodym]

The tailoring looks great, like the one button double breasted elaborated from last year formal. I even like the high waist pants, shirts with extended and exaggerated parts. The things I don't like are things he has done before that I hoped he was done with, like puffy stuff, paneled jackets, long dresses.

Still feels like Rick, but I think i have to let this sink in..

[Dane]

We can all argue back and forth over this particular collection, but we as fans change....and the designer himself changes...and if we don't all change at the same time in the same direction, we're all bound to have some awkward moments.

If the designer is talented, which I think we can all agree Rick is, he'll manage to impress us once again in the future, so for the time being let's just have that to look forward to.

[Shucks]

Well Faust, you put words in my mouth as I was not asking such a thing. That said, I'm sure rick made money in 2009 as well.

I'm not going to comment any more on this collection, as people always find some silly reasons to why everything is so good.

Theconsumer and The Great Destroyer can continue making interesting observations.

i.e. regurgitate almost verbatim what i've said earliet in this same thread...

btw, i wear combats and blistered leather and still dig the fall stuff. it's just another facet.

[Dane]

btw, i wear combats and blistered leather and still dig the fall stuff. it's just another facet.

No! This is forbidden! You cannot wear Rick's casual apparel and also enjoy the formalwear...it's against the rules of life!!!

[Faust]

Well Faust, you put words in my mouth as I was not asking such a thing. That said, I'm sure rick made money in 2009 as well.

I'm not going to comment any more on this collection, as people always find some silly reasons to why everything is so good.

Theconsumer and The Great Destroyer can continue making interesting observations.

I am not saying this is good. But to demand some kind of a starving artist fantasy is ridiculous and is customarily done by those who have neither starved nor ever had artistic inclinations.

[theconsumer]

No! This is forbidden! You cannot wear Rick's casual apparel and also enjoy the formalwear...it's against the rules of life!!!

[AKA*NYC]

i'm squarely with the pro-rick people. he's staying true to his vision all the way. yes he's building a design house BUT he's doing it his way and so what? it seems pointless to dwell on socks, perfume, and sunglasses - all of which have the man's indelible stamp and are all but deliberately designed to be non- or anti-commercial - when he is also developing the coolest furniture out there and in many regards building what is tantamount to his own universe. he may well be remembered as a frank lloyd wright type figure (crossed with warhol) if he continues down this path. mountain is amazing to me and totally consistent with his work. the aesthetic is totalitarian and monolithic and space age and glam and punk all rolled into one. and there will be tons of street shit in the collection that wasn't presented on the runway. there always is. so chill.

[The Great Destroyer]

i.e. regurgitate almost verbatim what i've said earliet in this same thread...

I skimmed through the thread again and realized that, like you mentiom, pretty much pointed out what i just wrote about the dresshirts and suits. My apologies it was certanly not my intent to take credit for your observations.

[Faust]

i'm squarely with the pro-rick people. he's staying true to his vision all the way. yes he's building a design house BUT he's doing it his way and so what? it seems pointless to dwell on socks, perfume, and sunglasses - all of which have the man's indelible stamp and are all but deliberately designed to be non- or anti-commercial - when he is also developing the coolest furniture out there and in many regards building what is tantamount to his own universe. he may well be remembered as a frank lloyd wright type figure (crossed with warhol) if he continues down this path. mountain is amazing to me and totally consistent with his work. the aesthetic is totalitarian and monolithic and space age and glam and punk all rolled into one. and there will be tons of street shit in the collection that wasn't presented on the runway. there always is. so chill.

You know I had to (and totally agree with everything you said)