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Rick Owens Mens FW 12

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  • michael_kard
    Senior Member
    • Oct 2010
    • 2152

    /\ OK, now that is fucking amazing.
    ENDYMA / Archival fashion & Consignment
    Helmut Lang 1986-2005 | Ann Demeulemeester | Raf Simons | Burberry Prorsum | and more...

    Comment

    • Lane
      Senior Member
      • Aug 2010
      • 988

      Originally posted by Faust View Post
      I am not saying this is good. But to demand some kind of a starving artist fantasy is ridiculous and is customarily done by those who have neither starved nor ever had artistic inclinations.
      I dunno, julius started round the same time and I don't see a huge departure from his overall aesthetic, people wanna argue hes simply derivative or that he doesn't have the spotlight, but yah....


      Anyways, I don't see anyone demanding anything really, I just don't see what there is exciting about this whatsoever. I don't even care about the sunglasses and perfume, I'm worried about the overall direction that's being taken by the label. I mean you can't always stick to playing the same tune forever, but I don't like this departure, that's all. Not gonna loose sleep over it, plenty of other clothes in the sea.

      Honestly. my discontent is more spread out than just with rick, I'm not quite excited about fall collections as a whole...

      Comment

      • jogu
        Senior Member
        • Jun 2009
        • 1601

        still like this alot more than naska which i thought was just ok . even tho its all "dresses" it seems like stuff all the ppl who are gettin into rick cos its trendy would love . tbh i dont see anythin new w/ skirts . for others who like d&g etc i bet naska is like fresh and totally "edgy" lol

        then i look at mountain and i was like niiiiiiice ver nice. this collection is the one thats different and offers somethin new , just kinda ironic that its mostly trousers and not all skirts .
        i read somewhere it was inspired by like 1930s movie era stuff , i used to watch these old ass late nite black n white movies on fri and sat that came on around 2 and 3 am . as i sat at my desk playin everquest and occasionally turned to look at these movies on tv i vividly member thinkin how they were almost kinda scary .
        it was all black n white , the acting and the way they talked was weird , there was a feelin of over indulgence and luxe , smoking was glamorized like the scene would show some bitch smoking for a good 1 or 2 mins , i mean of just her standin on some balcony and smoking nothin else goin on , the guys hair was real greasy and slicked back , there were many scenes where it was silence for like 8 mins and id turn to look at the tv cos i thought like wtf did the tv turn off ?? but nope it would have the actors just walkin around the room doin stuff like reading or sittin at a vanity doin her makeup and no one talkin . theres somethin strange about all that , prol why i kept watchin those late nite movies . my fave is this cowboy serial with tim holt and his sidekick chito rafferty the irish-mexican . whenever those came on i was always like yessssssssss

        Comment

        • Lane
          Senior Member
          • Aug 2010
          • 988

          nothing wins me over more than a jogu post

          Comment

          • jogu
            Senior Member
            • Jun 2009
            • 1601

            Originally posted by Lane View Post
            , I'm not quite excited about fall collections as a whole...
            lol im the same way mostly , prefer summer stuff vs winter . i do like the layerin winter provides but i feel like alot of it just gets covered up w / a coat , summer tho ur not bogged down and can wear whatev u want . plus i like shorts too

            Comment

            • Shucks
              Senior Member
              • Aug 2010
              • 3104

              jogu - yeah 30s is right. astaire etc., but i'm also pretty sure MOUNTAIN means this:








              so everybody chill - it's still 'sportswear'. last one is walter gropius of bauhaus fame btw.
              Last edited by Shucks; 02-01-2012, 08:23 AM. Reason: missed one...

              Comment

              • tricotineacetat
                Senior Member
                • Aug 2009
                • 206

                Funny to observe that in 2012, people still cling to a somewhat two dimensional thought of rebelliousness, angst or whatever undertone they feel Rick Owens has always had and is missing today.

                It's a bit easy to associate a black leather motorcycle jacket thirty years after the birth of punk to still embody all things dark and twisty and to look at a suit as a metaphor for conformity. I guess a lot of those disappointed in this new direction should admit they have dogmatically denied to wear anything in the direction of tailoring and have clinged to drape-y jerseys and leather jackets from the very beginning.

                What I am seeing here is that Rick Owens is widening his customer's options with clothes that keep the same feel about the cutting, the silhouette and the attitude in which they are supposed to be worn - The suiting he's been pushing for a few seasons now clearly does not resemble anyone else's look than his own and it's become clear that the real news for the line aren't dresses/skirts, sunglasses or the high waisted trousers which he does as a seasonal experimentation but not as part of his permanent oeuvre.

                Comment

                • mrbeuys
                  Senior Member
                  • May 2008
                  • 2313

                  Argh yawn... I think we should draw a line under this. Some people like where he's going, others don't. Too many variables here at play to actually come to a consensus of any kind. For sure he's bigger than he was 5 years ago - I say good for him. Surely that's his aspiration, why else would he open retail stores. I think he's faaar from commercial (as in: mainstream) and in terms of recent work, it matches where I am going in my personal taste (more tailoring - dressing a bit more appropriate to my age, etc). A friend sent me a pic of Kim Kardashian in a Rick leather with the message "Time to move on.."
                  Well, thank god Rick is giving me the option to move on, so there.
                  Hi. I like your necklace. - It's actually a rape whistle, but the whistle part fell off.

                  Comment

                  • tricotineacetat
                    Senior Member
                    • Aug 2009
                    • 206

                    Originally posted by Eternal
                    I need to go to work now, but you can't really be serious. CCP does tailoring that is much less confirming than this and it actually seem to have some kind of thought behind it but pictures of "sportswear" for the upper class from the 30s. The problem for me is that this could easily have been Raf for Jil or Prada.

                    On the commercial note. This (well, the female collection) will soon hang next to Balenciaga, Celine, Helmut Lang ( new shit) in a store in my current city. None of the owners/buyers even know who Ann Demeulemeester is. Go figure. I have no problems with it being commercialized at all, but it's kind of lost some of the relevance it used to have like " I want to sell what I put on the catwalk" and now he basically sell most of the usual suspects from the showroom.
                    Never mind the seasonal inspiration, the shapes of his recent tailoring have been out for a few collections now and when you look closely, they are featuring the same cut as some of Rick's most prominent sportswear jacket designs - the way the tailored sleeve is cut with the triangular inset on the armpit extending to the side pockets, initially giving a tailored garment a sportswear feel about it - It's a logical continuation, as are the shirts he has been doing now with the same slanted cowl neck closure as some of the jackets he has been doing for a while.

                    Further more, I do not see why Rick Owens should sell exclusively in an environment such as Atelier NY or L'Eclaireur provides - While it fits well there, it can look similarily logical next to Margiela, Comme des Garcons or Balenciaga, depending on the buy of the store and the audience they are speaking to.

                    Comment

                    • Lane
                      Senior Member
                      • Aug 2010
                      • 988

                      Originally posted by tricotineacetat View Post
                      Funny to observe that in 2012, people still cling to a somewhat two dimensional thought of rebelliousness, angst or whatever undertone they feel Rick Owens has always had and is missing today.

                      It's a bit easy to associate a black leather motorcycle jacket thirty years after the birth of punk to still embody all things dark and twisty and to look at a suit as a metaphor for conformity. I guess a lot of those disappointed in this new direction should admit they have dogmatically denied to wear anything in the direction of tailoring and have clinged to drape-y jerseys and leather jackets from the very beginning.

                      What I am seeing here is that Rick Owens is widening his customer's options with clothes that keep the same feel about the cutting, the silhouette and the attitude in which they are supposed to be worn - The suiting he's been pushing for a few seasons now clearly does not resemble anyone else's look than his own and it's become clear that the real news for the line aren't dresses/skirts, sunglasses or the high waisted trousers which he does as a seasonal experimentation but not as part of his permanent oeuvre.
                      I wear blazers, button ups, and skirts also, whatever..reread your post and then tell me who is being dogmatic. You're not winning anyone over with this pretentious shit.

                      Like DRRK said, you can wear a blazer that is pretty rebellious. A more classic leather vs a julius or CCP blazer has a sharp contrast. The cuts julius and other brands which have an aggressive/slim silhouette are a form of rebellion as well.

                      I like a lot of the elegant sides of rick as well. In fact I loved the blazer I tried on from SS12 recently, had a great cut, black flap was a nice touch too. One button asymmetric cardigan from FW11 everyone loves now is my favorite too.
                      Last edited by Lane; 02-01-2012, 08:41 AM.

                      Comment

                      • Shucks
                        Senior Member
                        • Aug 2010
                        • 3104

                        Originally posted by DRRRK
                        A suit can be more punk than a leather jacket. It depends on the single items, the styling, the attitude of the wearer. I guess we all are aware of that. My god, a suit as a metaphor for confirmity? That was an argument for people to like this collection, finally dress shirts to complete an outfit for a bank appointment. Widening his customers options means widening the options in general which also means reaching new customers. If this is the real news in the collection, we agree. Nothing bad about it, just that some will see it as a commercial move, that usually goes along with losing some of the edge of the earlier work.

                        Shucks, those pictures are fantastic. I always thought sportswear will never be as elegant again as back in the days. Gropius in a shirt with tie on skis is a classic.

                        yeah walter looks pretty steezy but prob not so experienced in the slopes.

                        anyway, it seems pretty obvious 30s skiing gear is part of the inspiration for the collection. and yep it's pretty smooth, and imo elegance (think 'glamor' part of 'glunge') has always been part of the rick world. fucking hell, he's been doing tuxedo pants and stuff for ages!

                        so can people just stop hating? just keep buying the more raggedy-ass pieces if that's your favorite part - they'll be there in the stores for sure cause that's the stuff with more 'mainstream' appeal. that's the stuff that got him big in the first place!

                        and i'm actually mostly with tricotineacetat on this - i think fewer people will be into his tailoring than his leathers, and those that do buy the tailored stuff will be buying it as a subversive alternative to traditional suiting... it won't mainstream customers, cause they'll hit up rick for a leather maybe but definitely go to some other brand when they need a suit.

                        oh, and just to clarify: kinda joking bout that bank meeting thing. like i said later, those shirts aren't exactly brooks brothers...

                        Comment

                        • tricotineacetat
                          Senior Member
                          • Aug 2009
                          • 206

                          The pragmatic fact is that noone can be convinced to buy a fifth or sixth black leather jackets when the differences between each are and can be only marginal when the designer is supposed to remain consistant in his with a recongizable design signature - Noone likes to be served the same dish every day - I like my home made lasagna but it would certainly become a dull taste if I have it every day... I can enjoy both a good leather jacket and a suit if they are both made in about the same design ethos as for what I came to appreciate Rick Owens for.

                          Vice versa, I don't think anyone would buy a Rick Owens suit if they do not feel attracted by his sense of cutting or the brand image he communicates - As has been said a dozen of times, this is far from the parameters of conventionally commercial menswear and as you well said - it's got a lot to do with the styling of the individual garments themselves. Depending on the choice of colours or materials, these pieces could easily conjure the same image as some of Rick's earlier collections.

                          Comment

                          • Faust
                            kitsch killer
                            • Sep 2006
                            • 37852

                            /\ I agree - it's sheer nonsense to say that these suits will find traction with bankers.

                            And Mr. Beuys, I better continue seeing you in mohawk hoodies and head-to-toe leather. What is all this talk of moving on? Nonsense!
                            Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                            StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                            Comment

                            • Dane
                              HAMMERTIME
                              • Feb 2011
                              • 3252

                              Originally posted by mrbeuys View Post
                              Argh yawn... I think we should draw a line under this. Some people like where he's going, others don't. Too many variables here at play to actually come to a consensus of any kind. For sure he's bigger than he was 5 years ago - I say good for him. Surely that's his aspiration, why else would he open retail stores. I think he's faaar from commercial (as in: mainstream) and in terms of recent work, it matches where I am going in my personal taste (more tailoring - dressing a bit more appropriate to my age, etc). A friend sent me a pic of Kim Kardashian in a Rick leather with the message "Time to move on.."
                              Well, thank god Rick is giving me the option to move on, so there.
                              Well said...and I agree...I'm too old to be wearing oversized sneakers and dropcrotch shorts...I appreciate having a bit more "class" in his selection.
                              i traded my LUC jeans + Julius belt + Neil Barrett jeans for a blamain biker jeans

                              Comment

                              • mrbeuys
                                Senior Member
                                • May 2008
                                • 2313

                                Originally posted by Faust View Post
                                And Mr. Beuys, I better continue seeing you in mohawk hoodies and head-to-toe leather. What is all this talk of moving on? Nonsense!
                                Don't you worry, it's a gradual change.
                                Hi. I like your necklace. - It's actually a rape whistle, but the whistle part fell off.

                                Comment

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