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Thread: Sruli Recht - AW12/13 - Field Dressing

  1. #41

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    Quote Originally Posted by (((o View Post
    I really hope this scarf isn't $1000 or anything...it's beautiful and I want it.

    I don't think there's anything wrong with using dolphin skin obtained from the sources in this case, but I think it's dangerous territory because no doubt that information will not always be available and can easily be misinterpreted.

    I also think the gun is stupid and pointless...but again, I don't have the backstory, so pure speculation.
    i traded my LUC jeans + Julius belt + Neil Barrett jeans for a blamain biker jeans

  2. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dane View Post
    I also think the gun is stupid and pointless...but again, I don't have the backstory, so pure speculation.
    Just out of curiosity, why do you find it stupid and pointless?
    i've seen things you people wouldn't believe

  3. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by (((o View Post
    Just out of curiosity, why do you find it stupid and pointless?
    What's pointless about a gun in a clothing line?

    edit - I'm happy to retract my comment is someone can tell me why there's a gun in the collection and if it serves some purpose...is it just the irony of his comment that many of the visitors to their studio/shop think they sell guns?
    i traded my LUC jeans + Julius belt + Neil Barrett jeans for a blamain biker jeans

  4. #44

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    I just see it as something that works together with the feel of the collection. More like an accessory. But that's just me. Same thing with the knife, saddle etc.

    Maybe he has a lot of hunters in his clientele?
    i've seen things you people wouldn't believe

  5. #45

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    Quote Originally Posted by (((o View Post
    I just see it as something that works together with the feel of the collection. More like an accessory. But that's just me. Same thing with the knife, saddle etc.

    Maybe he has a lot of hunters in his clientele?
    I wonder if the gun functions? I'm just not a supporter of firearms, but I guess that doesn't really apply to this situation...it still doesn't seem all that congruent with a clothing collection.
    i traded my LUC jeans + Julius belt + Neil Barrett jeans for a blamain biker jeans

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    This dolphin was found dead on the beach. Animals die. So, get off your fucking high horse, gavaji.
    Yes, making a material profit by selling garments made out of endangered animals is fine (?????) but I'm on a high horse for calling this out? FUCK THAT.

    The dolphin died by getting caught in a fishing net. Well great I guess that makes it ok.

    People on here openly rail on designers they think "ripped off" their favorite designer but you can't question a designer for using dolphin skin? this is nonsense.

    "Cetacea Leather
    And in those nets and on those beaches, leaving the water, the cold air it breaches.
    Made by the man in the north, from bodies washed ashore, the Atlantic White-Sided Dolphin skin is nearly un-tannable, as the skin has structure more like an eye."

  7. #47

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    Quote Originally Posted by gavagai View Post
    People on here openly rail on designers they think "ripped off" their favorite designer but you can't question a designer for using dolphin skin? this is nonsense.
    look at your posts. you didn't "question a designer", you were making a shitload of noise without having any idea how the material was sourced. chill the fuck down.
    "AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."

    STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG

  8. #48

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    thought merz might post after that comment....

  9. #49

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    Super anxious to see the Darklands buy

  10. #50

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    Quote Originally Posted by gavagai View Post
    Yes, making a material profit by selling garments made out of endangered animals is fine (?????) but I'm on a high horse for calling this out? FUCK THAT.
    Just some fun facts for you to take to heart before you go any further. The Atlantic white sided dolphin are not endangered, in fact there's almost as many of the said dolphin as there are Icelanders.

    And:
    we never use by-products from any endangered or near threatened animals. - Sruli Recht
    i've seen things you people wouldn't believe

  11. #51

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    I expect all kinds of shit washes up on the beach in Iceland. My sister lives in NZ and she seems to have a steady stream of sharks, whales, dolphins and stuff landing on the beach in front of her house. I don't see anything wrong with using found materials, even if the animals are endangered.

    Implanting spider glands in goat tits is another matter.

  12. #52

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dane View Post
    I really hope this scarf isn't $1000 or anything...it's beautiful and I want it.

    I don't think there's anything wrong with using dolphin skin obtained from the sources in this case, but I think it's dangerous territory because no doubt that information will not always be available and can easily be misinterpreted.

    I also think the gun is stupid and pointless...but again, I don't have the backstory, so pure speculation.
    will be 4500 EURs

  13. #53

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    Quote Originally Posted by gavagai View Post
    Yes, making a material profit by selling garments made out of endangered animals is fine (?????) but I'm on a high horse for calling this out? FUCK THAT.

    The dolphin died by getting caught in a fishing net. Well great I guess that makes it ok.

    People on here openly rail on designers they think "ripped off" their favorite designer but you can't question a designer for using dolphin skin? this is nonsense.

    "Cetacea Leather
    And in those nets and on those beaches, leaving the water, the cold air it breaches.
    Made by the man in the north, from bodies washed ashore, the Atlantic White-Sided Dolphin skin is nearly un-tannable, as the skin has structure more like an eye."
    It's from a marine park. An old, naturally dead dolphin. That's why the belt is one and only.

  14. #54

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    back in town and on a regular computer so I can write a bit more :)

    The spider silk utilization is really quite lovely. I applaud Sruli for being able to work with the company that has developed the recombinant work (I'm pretty sure he's working with Nexia ). After seeing the woven spider silk scarf posted last year, it was something that certainly intrigued me.

    The spider silk protein is excreted by the goats with their milk (choc-full of proteins of all natures) and then purified and formed into fibers. Quite a costly and extensive process. We would of course prefer to imagine goat teats with silk threads coming from them but that's not quite exactly the process :)... or maybe it's just me that would like to imagine things that way.

    The gun and weaponry factor perfectly into the collection and are far from being odd objects for Sruli in terms of his past collections. Not only are they part and parcel of life in the wilderness but also match well with the name of the collection (not sure if it is a reference to hunting or to treating injuries in the wilderness/in war yet).

    The sewing and patternwork I see as a further evolved process from the last collection. The last collection felt like single-piece patterning used as the leading concept of the garments while this collection it gave the feeling that this design approach is integrated into how the pieces are made. Not sure if that makes sense, but it echoes the continuing and fast evolution of his cohesive collections that not only carry a unifying theme per collection but also continue to explore and push the realms of materials research, local materials usage and also with a touch of social commentary in a more subtle way.

    I'm really happy to hear that Darklands picked up this collection and I hope that SZers pick it up. Although some of the works are more "art pieces" than wearable items, I do believe that a lot of Sruli's works can and will integrate well into one's wardrobe. It will be interesting to see how the jackets/blazers sit on a non-model.

    From this collection and those prior, I'd really like to see the options for fabrics/materials. With such great foundation, even something such as a t-shirt becomes elevated to something next level.

    Again, great work and I'm glad that it has sparked discussion and even a level of controversy amongst members here. As for the dolphin skin, it's just one of those materials that polarizes folks. Like others have said on here though, it's not as if it is to be produced en-mass or even produced as more than one. Like all of Sruli's work, it serves a purpose both as a lovely object to see and although something that provokes thought and discussion.
    www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

    Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

  15. #55

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    Quote Originally Posted by Umami View Post
    will be 4500 EURs
    Seriously? I guess Chinorlz is correct in saying that parts of the collection are art pieces, which I fully respect.
    i traded my LUC jeans + Julius belt + Neil Barrett jeans for a blamain biker jeans

  16. #56

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    Given the material and the sheer (no pun intended) amount of labor required for the shirt and the scarf, I'm sure they were created moreso as a 'proof of concept'/clothing as an art form type pieces.

    In the clothing/design industry as well though, everything is for sale and has a price. Just like the CCP horse has a price, Altieri's metal/leather chair has a price, so one would expect the experimental pieces that Sruli creates have them as well.
    www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

    Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

  17. #57

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    regarding the presence of the rifle and knife in the collection; i think it makes perfect sense regarding where recht is coming from with this collection. as others have said it is reflected in the name of the collection to begin with, among other things. they may not be practical nor essential to the apparel, but they're coherent pieces thematically imho. not to mention they just look so good to me. if i had that kind of money to invest in a rifle and knife i'd probably never use they would definitely make gorgeous displays.

    recht always does interesting things. apparel is amazing and there are very interesting additions past that. always good to see.

  18. #58

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    Quote Originally Posted by gndm View Post
    they may not be practical nor essential to the apparel, but they're coherent pieces thematically


    SR463 – Carradina – Atlantic white-sided dolphin-skin auto-erotic asphyxia belt, mounted to reindeer skin and provided with a door or handle hook.

    Found this over on Dezeen - any thoughts on how this fits thematically into the collection? Might bring an interesting perspective to the whole dolphin hide conversation earlier in the thread.

  19. #59
    Senior Member copacetic's Avatar
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    for the man who has everything.
    And "When the prince has gathered about him
    "All the savants and artists, his riches will be fully employed."

    Canto XIII, Ezra Pound

  20. #60

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    Man. I gotta admit that this is great to me! I think I'm gonna have to do some mad investing in this free-form creativity. While some are describing this stuff as awkward, I'd love to try some of these textures and forms in the wardrobe. I actually like the seam placement and strange fits, because you can still tell it's intentional in the design as opposed to random design.

    And.....yeah......those glass slippers are pretty crazy. looks like they might be destined to fit on top of leather or something else. Also some of the gauze materials look great. Those leggings, that scarf, etc etc etc. Hell, I would wear 90% of this collection.........just saying.

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