Page 7 of 12 FirstFirst 123456789101112 LastLast
Results 121 to 140 of 239

Thread: NEXT

  1. #121

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pierce4 View Post
    Think we ( or me ) was going on about the new aesthetic of global capitalism was the NEXT thing.
    Not to get on the hate train but that image is crap! Next isn't some sort of over vectorized neofuturistic deodorant pizzaz. Maybe you're pointing that out and I've overlooked it...

    Next to me is incorporating a sound diet so your body takes in less toxins and is able to flush them out without creating an overly malodorous environment for yourself and those around you.

    I've been recently vibing out on Aesop. Love what they're doing right now. To me this is NEXT :






    http://www.beautysnob.com/2011/06/ae...weet_smel.html

  2. #122
    Jin
    Guest

    Default

    pierce, you fucking killing me


  3. #123

    Default

    I'm going to melt your head with this one Gin:

    Stanford Persuasive Tech Lab - Machines Designed To Change Humans

    http://captology.stanford.edu/

    They released a paper on the steps needed to influence the masses for your own ends. Some choice quotes below

    http://www.bjfogg.com/mip.pdf

    "In my work and my lab, we focus on topics that benefit people, motivating them toward better health, more responsible environmental behavior, and so on. But the persuasive intent could be frivolous or it could be downright evil.

    Mass interpersonal persuasion matters because this new phenomenon gives ordinary individuals the ability to reach and influence millions of people. This is new. Over the past century, mass media has been the primary channel for persuasion. These channels were controlled by powerful people and organizations. They used mass media largely to achieve their own goals. Now, the landscape is changing.

    If human nature were fundamentally bad, I would be worried about MIP. Certainly, this new power could have a dark side. But I believe we humans are fundamentally good. I believe that, for the most part, we will create vehicles for MIP that will benefit society—that will enhance education, improve health, and help to bridge national and cultural divides."

  4. #124

    Default [worth watching in their entirety---all parts]

    now and then.


    ---




    ^ also by adam curtis (& tangentially related to the tangent).
    Last edited by PoubelleMaBelle; 08-02-2012 at 05:45 PM.

  5. #125

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pierce4 View Post
    I

    If human nature were fundamentally bad, I would be worried about MIP. Certainly, this new power could have a dark side. But I believe we humans are fundamentally good. I believe that, for the most part, we will create vehicles for MIP that will benefit society—that will enhance education, improve health, and help to bridge national and cultural divides."

    Yea........

    keep dreaming
    the history of human civilization is the history of mankind doing injustice to his neighbor..........and even in the "collective good" some selfish ends must exist that people realize can only be achieved by working together, so..........yea, keep dreaming
    “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
    .................................................. .......................


    Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

  6. #126

    Default

    I think it's been mentioned a couple of times already in this thread, but I really find the concept 3D printing quite interesting and hope it can be discussed further. Unfortunately, I don't have any experience with it myself and also don't have insider knowledge of the fashion industry. Still, I'm wondering if any designers have tried this approach and whether it would bring some new ideas. For instance, assuming that some material is used where the whole piece is built in microscopic layers, could it be used to create completely seamless pieces? Kind of like m.a+, but one step beyond. I could see some label like Arcteryx Veilance, combining very technical materials and techniques with decent tailoring and designs, trying this out. And if this does take off, fashion degrees could become much more technology-oriented than they are nowadays.

  7. #127

    Default

    oh my I've missed so much discussion

    I did read through the whole thread just now, there's been some very good points, others veering off into irrelevance. I find the zeitgeist currently is the insecurity of knowing everything is fucked without having any solutions. eg. Occupy Wall St, education reform, global warming, plastic surgery in South Korea, nuclear arms in North Korea etc ad infinitum.
    So following on that vein I think many have given critiques of fashion today, in reference to the past, with no suggestion for the future.

    Here's a list of things which I think are fundamental changes that need to take place in fashion:

    SUSTAINABLE PRACTICE AND ETHICAL RESPONSIBILITY
    is ideal, but much like how charity often "helps" with well meaning ignorance and accidentally make things worse, "eco-fashion" "anti counterfeit" "anti slave labour" are complex issues which can't be made fashionable for a mass bandaid solution. Not territory worth wandering into if you don't know what the hell you're doing ie. people need to know what the hell they're doing because their actions have massive implications

    eg. used clothing donations to 3rd world countries became popular in the 90s, resulted in increased poverty and ruined local economies, added pollution, waste of everyone's time and money
    http://goodintents.org/in-kind-donations/toms-shoes

    PEOPLE BUYING LESS AND SPENDING MORE PER ITEM
    Faust said this before, I agree with everything that was said.
    http://stylezeitgeist.com/forums/sho...0&postcount=52
    edit: wait! no, I don't! I kind of covered this in another thread, http://stylezeitgeist.com/forums/sho...8&postcount=61
    mass-education-rhetoric-programs don't work quite as well as "being the change you wish to see in the world." excuse the cheese


    NOBODY SHOULD WORK FOR FREE
    I don't even mean the poor people who stitch rags for H&M. For some reason the fashion industry seems to be free to exploit more than most, down to unpaid internships, assisting etc.
    Only a select few can afford to work for free as students/graduates/interns and it very commonly becomes a case of "daddy helped me get here", lowering the standards and expectations of work, typically as such when nobody is getting paid. It ruins the economy, industry, makes life hard for errbody.
    The portfolio/critique model WORKS: as in an employer as mentor being ideal, if not, at least there's rent earned. Employees being selected by portfolio, (not friend circles or CV) results in low employee turnover, higher efficiency (less re-training), a nice fucking work environment.
    If you can't pay your staff, maybe you aren't in a position to have any.


    ADVERTISING SHOULD BE REGULATED
    Aggressive marketing, especially when directed towards children, adolescents, vulnerable folk, is the bane of my existence and #1 on my list of reasons why I hate humanity
    When children continue to grow up thinking owning lots of shit is the pinnacle of existence, it gets a lot harder to undo the irresponsible work of bad parenting/evil corporations
    On that note, in the words of Tavi Gevinson more or less, people need to stop fetishising youth, the most subversive thing a young person can do is just grow old. (She said this in response to John Waters' critique of youth culture today.) If youth didn't have the pressure of needing to create a counter-culture in the impossible conditions of post-post-modern overload society, hipsters, or anti-capitalist consumers in general, would not exist. Expectations of youth are outdated, irrelevant, unforgiving, isolating and create epidemic environments for hipsters.

    I don't know why the hell people have said things about new silhouettes, next technology. I'm pretty sure many a time it was concluded on SZ forums that design is a balanced dynamic between innovation and craft, always has been. The moment someone mentions "aesthetics" we know we're no longer talking about clothes, instead pure novelty, soon to be kitsch, FASHUN

    In conclusion to my magnum opus of a list, here's a quote from a commenter on an article posted on Business of Fashion
    http://www.businessoffashion.com/201...aesthetic.html
    (first comment, its more valuable than the article itself IMO)

    Fashion’s innovation is simply suffering from over exposure and plagiarism. Too much available product and accessibility has rendered the discipline a passive and dumbed down obsession. However, fashion will always spurn new movements, designers, directions and sub-groups. There is a school of thought to take fashion ‘offline’, creating an offline network of serious, real life players. This movement would explore tactility, exclusivity, non-mass, 1 of 1 culture and would absorb more experimental creative, business models.

    Anyway, much to be said that was left unsaid for the sake of being concise, hope it wasn't too vague.
    Last edited by 525252; 08-03-2012 at 03:43 AM.

  8. #128

    Default

    Agree 100% 525252 about advertising.

    Just on 3d printing, I'm doing alot of reading about it at the moment

    Neri Oxman at MIT's structures:





    Computer generated patterns and fashion

    http://www.continuumfashion.com/D.html





    charlotte becket, cyclops. Love this so much, pretty much sums up the current zeitgeist


    The eye/mouth actually opens and closes freaky shit.
    http://www.charlottebecket.com/video/Cyclops.mov
    Last edited by pierce4; 08-03-2012 at 09:20 AM.

  9. #129

    Default you're missing the point

    Pierce, its all very interesting and such, but everything you've said so far is either decrying the sad state of this world using sensationalised examples or suggesting novelty gimmicks as solutions (or so I think, I've found your posts quite difficult to understand)

  10. #130

    Default

    oh man I totally missed the discussion train.

  11. #131

    Default

    That's intriguing, but I'd be interested to hear if any SZ related brands have tried this. Who knows, maybe one day you could go to Atelier, pick some item you like and then have it custom fitted and printed on the spot using source materials and blueprints provided by CCP. Or have a model of yourself that you can send to the designer or shop, who can then deliver an exact fit. That would alleviate one of the biggest concerns with online shopping: improper fit. More interestingly, it would allow creating some shapes and patterns that are very difficult or impossible to do by hand.

    Here is some more reading:
    http://thecreatorsproject.com/de/blo...rom-hoon-chung

    http://www.atcrux.com/2012/07/27/3d-...d-comfort.html


    Quote Originally Posted by pierce4 View Post

    Just on 3d printing, I'm doing alot of reading about it at the moment

    Computer generated patterns and fashion

    http://www.continuumfashion.com/D.html

  12. #132
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Long hard road out of hell
    Posts
    37,840

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by the-orb View Post
    I think it's been mentioned a couple of times already in this thread, but I really find the concept 3D printing quite interesting and hope it can be discussed further. Unfortunately, I don't have any experience with it myself and also don't have insider knowledge of the fashion industry. Still, I'm wondering if any designers have tried this approach and whether it would bring some new ideas. For instance, assuming that some material is used where the whole piece is built in microscopic layers, could it be used to create completely seamless pieces? Kind of like m.a+, but one step beyond. I could see some label like Arcteryx Veilance, combining very technical materials and techniques with decent tailoring and designs, trying this out. And if this does take off, fashion degrees could become much more technology-oriented than they are nowadays.
    Perhaps you've missed our coverage of Iris van Herpen's work. Some info on the forums and in the first issue of SZ magazine.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  13. #133
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Long hard road out of hell
    Posts
    37,840

    Default

    OT: Fncyths, could you elaborate on your love of Aesop - perhaps in the "men's grooming" thread we have here? I tried to get into it, but to me it just looks like a more expensive alternative to Khiel's or Malin+Goetz. I do like their earthy esthetic.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  14. #134

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 525252 View Post
    I don't know why the hell people have said things about new silhouettes, next technology. I'm pretty sure many a time it was concluded on SZ forums that design is a balanced dynamic between innovation and craft, always has been. The moment someone mentions "aesthetics" we know we're no longer talking about clothes, instead pure novelty, soon to be kitsch, FASHUN
    Yes, why would anyone discuss "aesthetics" when talking about clothing? The way it looks is irrelevant. When we discuss different periods in fashion history, we mostly focus on the way the garments were produced, not the way it looked, right? When I get dressed in the morning, I'm putting together various methods of production that work together. SZ, after all, is such a diverse collection of aesthetics united by an overarching philosophy governing how garments should be made. And designers, of course, give little thought to the way their products look.

    Let's cut the bullshit. The way clothing looks matters. I'm not saying everything else isn't important. It definitely is. New technology and methods of production can have a huge effect on the way people dress. But what technology is really capable of having that effect right now? Issey Miyake has some fascinating ideas, but I don't see them being used except by Miyake. Aitor Throup's way of creating would never work on a large scale (I don't think he'd even want it to). What's really going to change things? Well, if global warming causes the price of cotton to skyrocket we may see a vast shift in what most clothes are made of. Now THAT would be a change. But of course that won't be happening for years, if it does at all. What's NEXT is likely more of the same, just with a slightly altered appearance. I, for one, think that appearance is worth considering.

  15. #135

    Default

    Okay, I had a feeling someone was going to hit me up on that one. I was conscious of that dubious sentence, if anything the word "aesthetic" should have been written ""aesthetic"".

    There was a point where topics were on the verge of trend forecasting which is exactly what we don't need. I made a rushed and pretty much bad attempt to address that.

    I'll write up a bit more about aesthetics when I get back from preschool.

  16. #136

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 525252 View Post
    PEOPLE BUYING LESS AND SPENDING MORE PER ITEM
    Why? If that's not what the market is demanding then why would you expect to be successful doing this? Why not improve the sustainability and efficiency of the current style of garment production, either by improving the land consumption and reducing the resultant waste of current practices, or switching to new fibers that are more efficient than existing ones? i.e., cellulosic semi-synthetics fibers versus cotton. Producing clothing that consumers don't want isn't productive, and won't ever be successful. You will never make a sweeping change in a market with a re-education program.

    I don't know why the hell people have said things about new silhouettes, next technology.
    Because it's relevant. At least part of Rick Owens' massive success as a designer is due to how easy his garments are to wear, and how forgiving they generally are in terms of fit; you can just pull on some elastic waisted bottom and an easy top, to do everything from your grocery shopping to working and dating, and gigantic balloon shorts with a drop crotch mean you can get fat at the buffet without worrying about what your waist or your hips will do to the fit of your clothing. You can even work out in Rick if you don't mind the dry cleaning bills. So, we have these garments that are luxurious and easy to wear and it's all directly related to their aesthetic, and they way they're constructed.

  17. #137

    Default

    I absolutely agree that a re-education program will do close to nil. For those fortunate enough to attend institutions of significant worth, that's awesome, great, lovely. Today in class, I had to sit through discussions about everyone's vague interest in art ("My favourite artist is uh... I can't remember his name.."), their greatest inspirations ("colours...surrealism and dreamlike imagery...?" said several times by various students) which came to the grand finale of a girl putting up her hand to ask if she could go to the toilet. Apparently I attend the best art school in Sydney.
    (Faust, in continuation of the other thread, this is what I mean, Parsons is Parsons and everywhere else is not Parsons.)

    Of course not every single student is so turd like, but too many times I've talked to fashion design students who cite "colours","textures" and "shapes" as their "inspirations", and if I may say so: these things are secondary concerns in design, though important nonetheless. Still, a colour is not an idea.

    So Patroklus, with apologies that it took such an introduction to get to the point: A dropped crotch is not an idea and is certainly not a primary concern which encapsulates the spirit of an era.

  18. #138

    Default

    The answer, "colors, textures, and shapes" sounds more like an incomplete thought that an incorrect or frivolous answer.

    anyway, I disagree; the dropped crotch and easy hips are a huge part of the appeal of Dick's bottoms, both for the visual shape and for the ease and comfort in wearing. And that's why he's so wealthy, and why so many other people are scrambling to reinterpret or straight up co-opt Rick's work. With the admission that Rei did it first, Rick made it significant.

  19. #139

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Patroklus View Post
    The answer, "colors, textures, and shapes" sounds more like an incomplete thought that an incorrect or frivolous answer.
    if only you had seen what I have seen


    as for the second half of your post:

    Commercial viability is part of or product of an idea, not an idea in itself.
    A dropped crotch = part of or product of an idea, not an idea.
    A culmination of a zeitgeist = not the zeitgeist itself.

  20. #140

    Default

    525252, wasn't intending to single you out, by the way. You weren't the first to say that talking about silhouette wasn't really worthwhile. Admittedly, I do keep coming back to the silhouette when I think of what's next because it seems to me (accurately or not, I suppose) like THE defining visual feature of clothing. That's not by accident. The media, including television, magazines, and the internet, is the main way people see new work from designers. Consequently, textures are mostly lost to us. Colors change too rapidly to be of much lasting significance. The shapes of the garments become that much more significant as a result. Yohji is know for oversized. Hedi is known for skinny. I agree with what Faust said about it being just part of an aesthetic. It's a valid point. I do still think it's worth talking about, just recognizing that it's only one part of the whole equation. Is it trend forecasting? Well, yeah. But I'm ok with that, just keeping in mind that it's only one element to discuss.

    Your point about these various elements not being ideas in themselves is a good one. I'd like to hear more about what "an idea in itself" really is, as you see it, and how that translates to the way a garment is made and how it looks, etc. I thought Patroklus made a smart argument about the drop crotch in Rick's stuff and how it's both functional as part of the "Rick lifestyle" (haha, sounds weird just typing that) and as part of the appearance of the clothes.

    For the record, I like this conversation because I'm in a vacuum otherwise and have no smart people to talk to about this stuff. (See that, I'm flattering you all.)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •