NEXT

[sissyleaks]

Wooaah mr small, heard of a chill pill?

Ok you did it first, we believe you.

............moving along now

[Jin]

And this is all we can say?


Sad to see that sluggish compliment exchanges in waywt and promo-codes info are more interesting for majority than constructive discussion.

I'm sure that main gang discussed these issues a lot in last years, but I want to ask: we all know how subcultures influenced the formation of our favorite designers. and when we say that the new names are not so expressive, not so interesting, are secondary, maybe it's because there is no sufficiently strong subcultures now? Maybe I'm wrong and just don't know some points, but I think this is an important aspect too, on par with the materials and the communications with consumers. stagnation is still felt at the level of ideas.
I can't see something such strong as hollywood 80's club culture, postpunk and goth culture or even skateboarding theme in last ten years. Nothing new.

[Faust]

What about the hispters and the whole DIY movement? Or is that outside of the realm of designer fashion (it shouldn't be, right? Marc Jacobs co-opted grunge wear and that definitely seemed outside of the designer fashion realm)? Does it have to be tied to music? If so, I am afraid indie rock doesn't offer much.

[Jin]

Honestly, I can't take hipsters or any oth last decade communities as a solid spheres. Maybe it's really the curse of Internet era, consequence of an unlimited choice and unlimited information, but look it is hell bunch of little directions and streams, some of em maybe interesting and creative, but mostly em interesting in consumering, not adopting like 20 years ago.
Same shit with music. Amazing count of styles, bands, variations of same ideas. But they all doesn't have enough of weight to create new gravity center and to born new culture. It's really problem of excessive choice.

[Jin]

а то, я сегодня шустер. Савик.

Agreed. But if we talking about next: new generation of designers maybe, or new visions from our maitres, we must remember that among our favorites, there are those who draws inspiration from the timeless moments and techniques, and those whose work is based on personal experience and their subcultures. So how can the new names come up, if they have no sense of experiences they can share not with a small group of people but with a huge consumer environment?

Upd

And yes fuck it. It can be music or it can be war.
I think Z must say something about progressive military designs, cos it always be large inspiring moment and main trendsetting vector too.

[Faust]

Jin, what I am saying is if you are looking for a defined aesthetic, hipsters seem to have one.

[PoubelleMaBelle]

join date: feb 2012

godard once spoke to the impossibility of telling stories anymore (in film) ...and i think the same can be said in the strictest sense for style/"fashion." we live in the age of post---- we have all the information, all the choices...it's just now a question of how to conceptually interpret and structure them in a new way. and that's not to say style can't be narrative anymore; it's just a narrative that gains traction from combining forms rather than combining literal inspirations. like paul harnden:: he creates a past that never existed...or margiela with tabi boots...or ccp's tradition tinged with the grotesque.

so i think merz's interpretation of what he looks for is not far off from the way things are actually moving. and as far as jin's complaint of too much choice...what is the alternative? ...there's no going back, slavoj!


merz:: when you talk about pre-mainstream punk aesthetic...could you elaborate any further? do you mean even before someone like westwood? either way...i'd definitely love to see those magazine scans, and in general just more threads focused on fleshing out style genealogies:::: style maps.

[Jin]

stripping things of their context cannot in itself provide a context for them. nor does the hipster has a defined aesthetic - the only manifesto is currency. zebra pants today, paul harnden tomorrow. hipster takes whatever carries relevance with a group he belongs - or aspires to belong to, which is always self-conscious and always in flux. fashunzz.

thats what I talkin about, Faust, hipsters and others are consumers not creators. they just turns to the wind.

PoubelleMaBelle, I don't grieved about the problem of huge choice. it's just society. I say that if many here have seen stagnation, it is only because we need some kind of global upheaval, the echoes of which will affect the fashion world. I love PH works, love Yoko Ito works, but they found their niche and have a great field for work and evolution inside it.

[PoubelleMaBelle]

apologies jin, i misunderstood; capitalism is certainly at the point where it's eating its own tail...


merz, why does advancement have to be synonymous with subtlety? & what would that even mean? not being belligerent, just curious.

[but either way, count me on your custom order list for sure ]

[Jin]

well I had to put it more correctly about harnden, not evolution but planned progress of work.

Oh no, don't tell me about roadwork parkas, I spent 3 hours this evening in traffic jam because of our new damned roadworks scheme: "start it in Friday rush hour and leave hills of old asphalt after work"

[Jin]

PmB, well now there are many germs of future global change, some of them will happen, some - not. I do not think that political or economic shocks will play a direct role, rather indirectly, as a catalyst for migrations, riots and, as I say, new military technologies, which of corse will go to a commercial sphere.

[PoubelleMaBelle]

haha, guess i'm just slippery slope paranoid...after all, it's probably that kind of quoted thinking that brought us the men's clothing discussions featured across the interweb; style as science / logical perfection ---- shortening sleeves .003" etc

_

PmB, well now there are many germs of future global change, some of them will happen, some - not. I do not think that political or economic shocks will play a direct role, rather indirectly, as a catalyst for migrations, riots and, as I say, new military technologies, which of corse will go to a commercial sphere.

so hold me, mom, in your military arms...your petrochemical arms :)

[pierce4]

Very interesting thread. Just after watching the olympic opening ceremony, I think it reflects the current zeitgeist very well. Big brands kept out of the main area but yet lurking in the background and appearing on small logos on the athletes, while individualism and consumption of culture and information triumphs over the industrial revolution. Music and underground sub cultures all commandeered. The merger and melding of offline/online world. Moving away from wrapping technology in old aesthetics (hipstmatic filters) and embracing futurism, moving forward with the fear of the connected world lifted pushing everyone to embrace the dawn of a new glorious work free future based all driven by marketing budgets of global capitalism and ted talks,

"Race With The Machines"

http://www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/2012/jul/12/olympic-security-londons-army-games

"CERN Mocked for Comic Sans"



The BBC has spoken for the first time about a court order that banned it from showing two drama-documentaries about last summer's riots, as legal experts questioned the "excessive" nature of the ban. The series Riots: in their own Words,...and stopped the wider media from reporting on the ban. Flaux admitted he had not seen the films, but had read a transcript, when he ordered the ban on Monday.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk/2012/jul/19/court-order-bans-bbc-film-riots

Amazon Turk And Wisdom Of Crowds

http://aws.amazon.com/mturk/

The message Mr Chambers sent read: “Crap! Robin Hood Airport is closed. You've got a week and a bit to get your shit together, otherwise I'm blowing the airport sky high!! He said he never thought anyone would take his 'silly joke' seriously.

http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/crime/twitter-joke-trial-man-paul-chambers-wins-appeal-victory-7981742.html

MIT Mood Meter build heat maps of mood on campus using security cameras and machine learning techniques. No sad faces are shown during the demo as "We want everyone to be happy"

http://www.invitrogen.com/site/us/en/home/support/Research-Tools/iPhone-Apps-and-Widgets.html

London Eye to display mood of nation during olympic ceremony by analyzing tweets.

http://www.dailydot.com/news/london-eye-twitter-mood-lights/

Even returning it back at them in parody has been done. Individualism will once again live in the mind and not have some outward visual expression. You can dye your hair pink, bio modify yourself to look like a rick owens model, what ever you want it is possible to look different and individual, but it is just that, a superficial expression, you are just being subdued the same as the guy in a suit. So why not wear the suit and be over with it?



Bluefin Labs and machine learned influencer identification algorithms.
"Bluefin is using deep machine learning to ground the meaning of comments pulled out from social media. By looking at the context of words expressed by individuals, Bluefin can use the meaning of these words to connect comments back to the events, people, products, brands, and viewing contexts that caused those words to be expressed in the first place."

http://bluefinlabs.com/thesciencebehindit/

Is nike fly knit the future of the swoosh?

"Consultants say actually manufacturing athletic shoes in the U.S. would still be more expensive than Asia, but the cost difference could be made up by spending less on shipping and being faster at filling demand or jumping on a hot trend in Nike’s largest market. Nike’s new computerized knitting process weaves an entire shoe upper in one piece. That’s 35 fewer pieces to sew than similar shoes. The flexibility created by more automated shoemaking could also lead to a day when a person can visit a Nike store and have their foot scanned for a customized fit. The customer would be able to design the shoe by color and style down to a single thread. That’s far more customization than allowed by NIKEiD"

http://www.businessweek.com/articles/2012-03-15/is-nikes-flyknit-the-swoosh-of-the-future/

[Faust]

thats what I talkin about, Faust, hipsters and others are consumers not creators. they just turns to the wind.

PoubelleMaBelle, I don't grieved about the problem of huge choice. it's just society. I say that if many here have seen stagnation, it is only because we need some kind of global upheaval, the echoes of which will affect the fashion world. I love PH works, love Yoko Ito works, but they found their niche and have a great field for work and evolution inside it.

I don't think it really matters if they co-opted the elements of their esthetic - the point is right now they have a very clear and definable style. It's not like Kurt Cobain came up with his grandpa's cardigan, ripped blue jeans and Converse - he just put them together.

[Jin]

now they have a very clear and definable style

Maybe we just hunt different hipsters..?




well. and is this culture strong enough to bring something or someone to the fashion world ? I think you've already discussed the same at the end of 2009 in strangers reactions.