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Rick Owens - SS13 - Mens - Paris

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  • kunk75
    Banned
    • May 2008
    • 3364

    I'm convinced Garth Pugh is designing this shit but I think we are awfully casual about one of the most revered designers on here going to shit. It's even affected the secondary market where you're lucky to get 500 for a leather from the last few seasons. Conversely it's becoming impossible to find stuff from exploder through gleam because rickofiles are snatching them up fast sensing raf-level disaster.

    Comment

    • Patroklus
      Banned
      • Feb 2011
      • 1675

      Originally posted by avout View Post
      I'm mostly with you. I wouldn't even say that vision is lacking, and it is partly Rick's fault for having hammered home the idea that his collections were iterative and he just wanted to refine the same ideas over and over. When he talks about hating fashion and making clothes "with minimal chord changes", it's no wonder that so many of his followers are allergic to change.
      But that's exactly what he's done. I have a skirt from 2003 that is nearly identical to a few I saw on the Island runways - the same maxi length pillar with a mid-thigh slit and a dragging strap in the back, but now he did it in a woven instead of a jersey, and, uh, the strap is a lot wider. Even the fractal camo intarsia thing has been touched upon with earlier geometric patterns, from Crust.


      Here's a dude wearing the nun habit back in 2003 or 2004, except it has sleeves because he was a sweater on his head and I'm pretty sure he's stoned.


      Rick doesn't change, and I like it because at least he's genuine about taking my money in exchange for terrible clothing. When Raf abandoned his riot ninjas wholesale, it kind of soured me on those old collections because saying the overarching theme is "boys will be boys" isn't enough to pull me from collections styled like Adbusters readers to being styled like alarming pedophiles in clothing stolen from their victims.

      Comment

      • Lane
        Senior Member
        • Aug 2010
        • 988

        Change is perfectly fine, everything should evolve. I just feel like its quite a drastic shift, if you take into account what rick was fw11 ( meh season but whatevs) compared to now for example. its great that some of you like wearing dresses, clogs, and spider webs on your face, but honestly thats not what initially what attracted me to the aesthetic i dont know how one should catch flack for that.

        what attracted me to rick was a certain spirit which has been lacking from the last couple seasons. Its like he woke up and became a new person or decided to just make furniture. That old spirit is gone and its been replaced with something completely different and certainly isnt in tune with his prior vision.

        I mean shit, ived moved the fuck on, but its kinda saddening when you see things change for the worse (in my eyes). Also, he clearly doesnt hate fashion now.

        Comment

        • Patroklus
          Banned
          • Feb 2011
          • 1675

          Rick Owens never hated fashion, that was self-promotion. If he hated fashion, then why is he always pilfering old couturiers?

          At any rate, Crust had guys in dresses, and up there is a guy in heels, and he's done clogs since 2003, and...

          Comment

          • Lane
            Senior Member
            • Aug 2010
            • 988

            They werent the dominating parts of the collection, least for crust. Shit, id love to know when the last decent leather has come out...

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            • kunk75
              Banned
              • May 2008
              • 3364

              It's gone from a uniform to a costume

              Comment

              • Patroklus
                Banned
                • Feb 2011
                • 1675

                The runway is never the whole collection though, it's always been a sort of thesis. When he went hard on the menswear skirting in 2011 he introduced them with jackets in matching fabric for the first time; he was defining what qualified as a "suit" in the Rickiverse.

                Comment

                • Dane
                  HAMMERTIME
                  • Feb 2011
                  • 3252

                  I think the used leathers are going for cheap now because he oversaturated the market with them. They no doubt continue to sell well and help balance the wackier stuff that goes 1/2 price. Also, the longer a designer is around, the more accessible they become and the more you see floating around the 2nd-hand market, which lowers resale value.

                  As mentioned above, he continues to repeat several themes and pieces, but what I find most interesting, and I think was maybe Lane's point all along, is that things are becoming more feminine and refined. Guys like Kunk are no doubt going to lose out on that move, but just because that's the current direction, doesn't mean it's going in the downward direction. We all know how creative Rick can be, so who knows what will come next....maybe even a boner.
                  i traded my LUC jeans + Julius belt + Neil Barrett jeans for a blamain biker jeans

                  Comment

                  • Patroklus
                    Banned
                    • Feb 2011
                    • 1675

                    Sruli Recht did boners first.

                    Comment

                    • kunk75
                      Banned
                      • May 2008
                      • 3364

                      feminine, yes, refined, no. His suiting peaked a few seasons ago. I just don't think evolution is the right word for taking classics and worsening them by way of quality or cut or by emblazoning them with shower curtain patterns.

                      Comment

                      • Lane
                        Senior Member
                        • Aug 2010
                        • 988

                        Its downward to me, but thats precisely it. Its pretty much gotten out of hand for me, i was always welcoming to the incorporation of feminine aspects to the design, but theres also a line one draws, and i have worn skirts

                        Comment

                        • kunk75
                          Banned
                          • May 2008
                          • 3364

                          gleam oiled leather.

                          Originally posted by Lane View Post
                          They werent the dominating parts of the collection, least for crust. Shit, id love to know when the last decent leather has come out...

                          Comment

                          • Lane
                            Senior Member
                            • Aug 2010
                            • 988

                            Yah, i owned a high collar intarsia from gleam, juicy ass calf

                            Its just too flamboyant for me now, its missing the low key minimal vibe ive enjoyed, especially with black nearly non-existent now its hard to take comfort in the style being put out.

                            Comment

                            • kunk75
                              Banned
                              • May 2008
                              • 3364

                              if any of you can look at crust or gleam and then look at the last few collections (s/s has been a disaster since creatch) and say it's a change for the better, you're lying to yourself.

                              Comment

                              • Patroklus
                                Banned
                                • Feb 2011
                                • 1675

                                Originally posted by Lane View Post
                                especially with black nearly non-existent now
                                What is Mountain?

                                Originally posted by kunk75 View Post
                                if any of you can look at crust or gleam and then look at the last few collections (s/s has been a disaster since creatch) and say it's a change for the better, you're lying to yourself.
                                It's a change for the better. Have you seen his new approach to the shoulder? I get weak in the knees just looking at it.

                                Comment

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