Ann Demeulemeester S/S 2013

[BECOMING-INTENSE]

Polarization is good!

After looking at good pictures, I quite like this. I see what others are saying that there is a bit of Ann missing, especially lack of tailoring and leather. It is a simpler and cleaner collection. But many elements are there - the lengths (very short or sweeping long), that grandeur, the romanticism.

There's indeed elements of what we associate with Demeulemeester
in there, but this is getting a bit too clean to convince me, and there
is definitely something not quiet right when Gareth Pugh's name is
mentioned in here.

Though I take comfort in that most of the time when I don't find it
convincing it's a styling question and not the actual garments.

[niji248]

I thought this collection was uninspiring and bland. First of all, there are no new shapes or ways to construct a garment, which in her older collections there is usually one strong proposal each collection (which is done in every way - long/short/sleeve/sleeveless - and in every fabric possible - cotton/silk/fur/wool). Here the only new idea, if it can be considered new, is a slit in the front of the sleeve, which comes as slits in tops and as zippers in jackets and coats.

I don't imagine anyone really wearing the floor length sleeves anywhere although it certainly looks good in photos. But as Ann herself said before "I don't do this to be in magazines", then I wonder what is being offered here for her loyal customers? Because other than the sleeves, there are just shorts and long tailored jackets. I hope the actual collection in the showroom has more substance.

[nictan]

couldnt find better close-up pics than those from nowfashion.com, but i really like the footwear! damn those heel/wedge

[Patroklus]

did Ann leave her own company? This is beautiful. First collection from her I really like. Weird that both Gareth and Ann did the sleevetrains though.

Right? This plus the total disassociation from the menswear make me wonder what she does exactly.
P.S. Ann is best known for her Renaissance fair costumes but it's also her least interesting work. The airy knits and amorphous non anatomical clothing are the best part of her work.
P.P.S. I would wear floor length sleeves!

[michael_kard]

Ann is best known for her Renaissance fair costumes but it's also her least interesting work.

I strongly disagree. Ann's tailoring is one of the few examples I've encountered where a piece may look like a regular jacket in a photo, but every panel in its construction is so well thought out that it makes the bod, sleeves and overall fit drape in a completely unique way.

[Rosenrot]

I like Ann where she does lots of jangly bits, but the clean Ann is so much more elegant.

[casem]

I really prefer clean Ann to baroque Ann so I like this. But I'll agree it is lacking the depth of her best collections.

[Faust]

I really prefer clean Ann to baroque Ann so I like this. But I'll agree it is lacking the depth of her best collections.

Well put.

[Qwerty]

I like the evolution towards a cleaner, sleeker, more streamlined sorceress, but I wish she'd played more with layers and textures, even tones, as she did with her past collections.

[Patroklus]

I strongly disagree. Ann's tailoring is one of the few examples I've encountered where a piece may look like a regular jacket in a photo, but every panel in its construction is so well thought out that it makes the bod, sleeves and overall fit drape in a completely unique way.

That would be her tailoring, a separate aspect that sometimes overlaps with her reenactment costumes.