Page 1 of 16 1234567891011 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 304

Thread: Thom Browne

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    hanoi, vietnam
    Posts
    350

    Default Thom Browne



    There is a huge article of NYT abouthe designer



    http://www.nytimes.com/2006/10/19/fa...pagewanted=all





    A New Trend for Men’s Wear

    By DAVID COLMAN
    Published: October 19, 2006


    ACCORDING to the current fashion playbook, Thom Browne has made several crucial errors in his five years as a men’s wear designer. He has been out of step with the real world, focusing on a fastidiously tight and buttoned-up look when most designers aim to accommodate a dressed-down workplace. He has been out of step with fashion, working in fusty, old-man fabrics like gray flannel, while others are dressing men in denim, velvet and nylon.

    He has yet to have a proper runway show. He is not a fixture on the party circuit. He does not give clothes to celebrities. And his basic suits, which average about $3,500, are so expensive that, even on sale and with a friendly insider discount, the young trendies who talk up and flaunt new designer labels are completely unable to play along.


    Worst of all, he wears his pants profanely short, revealing not only ankle — he does not wear socks — but a good three inches of shin. This not only elicits jeers from wiseacres on every street — “Hey, Pee-wee!” is one of the most printable — but also sneers from fashion snobs who prefer their $350 skinny jeans to crumple just so over their Dior winkle-pickers.



    The result of all those blunders is that Thom Browne, 41, is today the most envied and influential American men’s wear designer. Five years ago, the short-jacket-and-pants silhouette he created looked sweet but goofy, a look no real man would wear. Now he has won the Council of Fashion Designers of America award as men’s wear designer of the year; the venerable Brooks Brothers has signed him up to do special collections; and his signature look is being copied, however blurrily, by more than a dozen men’s wear lines, from traditionalists like DKNY and Zegna to edge-of-fashion houses like Nom de Guerre.



    “He hasn’t conformed to normal business strategy,” said Tommy Fazio, the men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman, where Thom Browne is a top-selling line. “At the beginning, I think people were skeptical. But he’s always true to his aesthetic, and now everyone is following suit.”



    You can debate whether he has actually made it fashionable for men to show off their ankles, since almost none of his customers wear their Thom Browne pants as short as he does. But he has made the “break” — that faint crumple of trouser leg dusting the top of the shoe, a strict standard of men’s business dress for decades — look sloppy and obsolete. It is a difference of perhaps a half-inch, but what a half-inch.



    “There’s something about dressing like Pee-wee Herman that I didn’t fully understand at first,” said Daniel Peres, the editor of Details. “And in all honesty, I am not certain I fully understand it today. But whether you personally appreciate the silhouette or not, he’s taken something men do every morning for years — put on a suit — and made it different. It’s really a tremendous feat.”



    Moreover, his enthusiasm for minute details of tailoring (not trained as a tailor himself, he steadfastly insists on having the suits in his line handmade by expert Italian tailors in Queens) has made the idea of putting on a suit seem not an unwelcome duty but a luxurious option, a concept almost alien to a generation of men in their 30’s and 40’s. And for better or for worse, his prices have helped legitimize the suit as a status item with young men for whom Brioni and Kiton seem old hat (and even for the not so young: Ronald O. Perelman has four of them. Other clients include George Stephanopoulos and David Bowie.)



    Mr. Browne’s business is still small — his line is sold in 22 stores worldwide and only six in the United States — but last month, Brooks Brothers signed him to an open-ended two-year contract to design men’s and women’s collections for the store, with projected first-year sales in the range of $10 million to $20 million. It was a match initiated by the Vogue editor, Anna Wintour, who called Claudio Del Vecchio, the company chairman, to suggest that Browne might help revitalize the Brooks brand.



    “Thom Browne is going to give us a different dimension,” Mr. Del Vecchio said. “He’s more on the edge of fashion, but it will still fit in the store.”



    Earlier this year, Mr. Browne sought and received permission from the Chambre Syndicale in Paris to show at the men’s collections there, a first for an American men’s designer. Yesterday Harry Winston announced that it had hired him to design a line of men’s jewelry. And this week, Mr. Browne is opening a 2,000-square-foot store at 100 Hudson Street in TriBeCa, its ivory terrazzo floor and gray marble walls bringing to mind, as his clothes do, an elegant early-60’s bank somewhere between Milan and Pittsburgh.



    In his counterintuitive plan of attack are lessons about what it takes to cut through the fierce and famously stodgy world of men’s wear. If other designers try to create looks in step with fashion, with just enough personality to stand out, Mr. Browne began by making clothes that he wanted to wear, and was soon wearing them all day, every day, slipping out of character only for his morning run in Central Park.



    In 2001, urged on by his then boyfriend, Charles Fagan, an executive at Polo Ralph Lauren, and his longtime friend David Biscaye, an architect with Biscaye Frères (he designed Mr. Browne’s store and wears his clothes), he quit his job as the creative fashion director of Club Monaco and started simply. With some backing from his siblings, he rented a little showroom and store in the meatpacking district.



    Just as important, he started eating breakfast — black coffee and white toast — every morning around the corner at Pastis, neatly dressed in a Thom Browne suit-slash-sandwich board.



    “I was very conscious about that, because I did want people to recognize what I stood for,” Mr. Browne said last week at Il Cantinori, the Greenwich Village restaurant where he dines on grilled salmon, green peas and Champagne roughly three nights a week. “At the same time, I really do wear these clothes because this is what I like.”



    It was at Pastis that he and his shrunken fit caught the attention of stylish men like Euan Rellie, a natty-dressing British-born banker, and Frank L. Fleming, a costume designer, who enlisted Mr. Browne to design clothes for Ewan McGregor’s character in the film “Stay” (2005). “He was this little inside secret, there every day, never talking to anyone, just drinking his coffee and looking impeccable,” Mr. Rellie recalled.



    His style also caught the eye of Robert Burke and Ron Frasch, then of Bergdorf Goodman, who bought his line for the store. There, the line was so clearly different that you wondered if it would not be better on the more conservative second floor rather than the third, where his sober-sided gray flannels and navy cashmere clashed with the colorful designer scene.



    But the clothes caught on with an underserved customer: the businessman who wants to look both conservative and cool. Brian Swardstrom, a prominent agent who had known Mr. Browne in the mid-90’s when he was living in Hollywood and struggling to be an actor. Running into him years later, Mr. Swardstrom bought a suit, and after a brief panic at how short it was, became a devoted customer.



    “They’re actually really classic,” he said. “They remind me of the 60’s, when Lew Wasserman was running MCA, when it was still an agency. He had a policy that everyone had to wear dark suits, white shirts and dark ties, and that’s kind of the Thom Browne aesthetic.”



    Not everyone embraces the look, of course. “Maybe if you’re 5-foot-6 and 140 pounds, you can pull it off,” said the men’s wear designer Alan Flusser. He also derided Brooks Brothers for choosing Mr. Browne to design for the company. “One of the things for them is a certain naturalness about how you wear clothes, and his style is anything but natural. It’s contrived.”



    Where Mr. Flusser sees artifice and pretense, Mr. Browne sees spirit and individuality. “I think that clothing being natural is all in the way a guy wears it,” he said, adding that he is not after an army of men in clam-diggers, but men who are “classic, with a little personality.”



    Indeed, one of the curious secrets of Mr. Browne’s clothes is that they do look good, even natural, on a wider range of men than one would guess. It helps to be relatively fit, but that can be said for almost every fashion line. And if he is frustrated by the perception that his clothes are designed for a select group of rich, superlean esthetes, he is aware that it has helped him more than hurt.



    As David A. Aaker, the vice chairman of Prophet, a brand management company, pointed out, “One aspect of brand success is creating something that’s different and memorable.”



    And as David Byrne once observed, “People will remember you better if you always wear the same outfit.”



    “I never heard that, but I love it,” Mr. Browne said when told of Mr. Byrne’s remark. “People think wearing a uniform makes you less interesting, but I think the opposite.”



    Even in his uniform, Mr. Browne has imagination to spare. His presentation for fall 2006 was a kind of boy’s school alpine fantasy on ice, with models on skates displaying his signature plays on proportion, like shorts and floor-length overcoats, and old-world touches like sock garters.



    His spring 2007 presentation was a haunting 30-minute film by the artist Anthony Goicolea, called “The Septembrists.” It was set in some bizarre, rural tailoring-fetish commune, like a blend of an Amish community and a military academy. In a series of vignettes, a dormitory full of young men arise, pick their own cotton to make and sew clothes, go octopus fishing at night to extract the inky dye, and perform ritual baptisms — all the while scrupulously dressed to the nines in tailored gauze and broadcloth.



    Beautifully filmed at a farm in Massachusetts, the film makes an excellent metaphor for how fanatical, verging on fetishistic, Mr. Browne’s vision is. And how blinkered. “I don’t like to know what’s going on,” he said, explaining why he does not like to go shopping. “It’s too easy to be influenced. It’s better to be totally off base and have it be something you love.”



    It is also easier not to see himself as a player. “It’s not hard, really, if you do your thing,” he said. “Then it’s not the game of fashion.”



    And, it appears, it’s easier to win.



    Robert Wright for The New York Times

    Robert Wright for The New York Times

    John Demsey, left, the global brand president of Estée Lauder. Euan Rellie, right, a banker in New York.

    Robert Wright for The New York Times

    THE UNIFORM Variations on Thom Browne’s buttoned-up look from his spring 2007, left, and fall 2006 collections.


  2. #2

    Default Re: Thom Browne



    i have soft spots for communes, octopi and the cloth making process. so the film sounds amazing. [:P]



    btw. thanks for posting the article.


  3. #3
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Long hard road out of hell
    Posts
    37,822

    Default Re: Thom Browne

    Thanks, nqth. I was thinking to post this, but decided against it, since I don't care for the design of it (well, there really isn't much design, just playing with proportions), and it really does look silly most of the time. Props to him for being a success, though.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    hanoi, vietnam
    Posts
    350

    Default Re: Thom Browne



    You are both welcome:-)



    I was thinking NYT was kind of supporting him. BC it is like "what is your style?" - "I show my ankles".



    Changing proportion, like the Japaneses and Belgians have done, was thought to be more than just making2 sizes toobig, but also free movement, ignoring the body, blah blah...



    Anyway it is nice that he has most clientsamong bankers:-)


  5. #5

    Default Re: Thom Browne



    I've noticed then when you see a bunch of guys together dressed like this, it looks pretty cool....



    But everytime I see a lone guy dressed a la Browne, I have a hard time not laughing.

    ...I mean the ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art whose other half is the eternal and the immutable.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Thom Browne



    [quote user="Faust"]Thanks, nqth. I was thinking to post this, but decided against it, since I don't care for the design of it (well, there really isn't much design, just playing with proportions), and it really does look silly most of the time. Props to him for being a success, though.
    [/quote]



    It's all relative, of course. Some people look at the way the people at Atelier dress and say they look silly. If we value individuality, then it's nice that Browne goes against the grain and can be a success. If mainstream fashion looked like Ann D and Carol Christian Poell, I have a feeling we would be here online waxing poetic about preppy rep stripes and chinos![;)]


  7. #7
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Long hard road out of hell
    Posts
    37,822

    Default Re: Thom Browne

    [quote user="bakla"]

    [quote user="Faust"]Thanks, nqth. I was
    thinking to post this, but decided against it, since I don't care for
    the design of it (well, there really isn't much design, just playing
    with proportions), and it really does look silly most of the
    time. Props to him for being a success, though.
    [/quote]



    It's
    all relative, of course. Some people look at the way the people at
    Atelier dress and say they look silly. If we value individuality, then
    it's nice that Browne goes against the grain and can be a success. If
    mainstream fashion looked like Ann D and Carol Christian Poell, I have
    a feeling we would be here online waxing poetic about preppy rep
    stripes and chinos![;)]



    [/quote]



    Of course - I am not an absolute deity [:P]



    BTW, Barneys bought it this season as well.

    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  8. #8

    Default Re: Thom Browne



    Well, it says a lot about the US menswear market that the biggest news in menswear design are Thome browne and Michael Bastian. Which is actually understandable, because it's a thoroughly American style, just upped a notch or two.





    Of course, this is the reason I'm shopping abroad! [8-|]


  9. #9

    Default Re: Thom Browne

    I wouldn't wear my breaks *that* high, but I feel that the uber-long used-car salesman trouser break has got to go...The film sounds very interesting, I am a big fan of ritual in art performance*, and this kind of presentation (reminds me of Matthew Barney) adds a very unique element to the psychology of his aesthetic.*If my avatar didn't tip you off [;)]

  10. #10

    Default Re: Thom Browne

    i like spencer hart a lot better based on photos- i haven't seen any of his suits in person yet :(

  11. #11
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Long hard road out of hell
    Posts
    37,822

    Default Re: Thom Browne



    [quote user="xcoldricex"]i like spencer hart a lot better based on photos- i haven't seen any of his suits in person yet :(
    [/quote]



    It's outstanding. That stuff makes you want to stay and just stroke the fabric (hides).

    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  12. #12

    Default Re: Thom Browne

    I do really like the Thom Browne look, and if I was a richer man I would probably get one of his suits. I like how he's taking something as traditional as bespoke tailoring and doing looks that traditional tailors may find sacreligious. I also like that he's not afraid to put some pretty ridiculous things in his shows, and he produces it all, I think there's a certain artistic integrety to how he sticks to his guns. The only problem I see is the Thom Browne "look" has become such a signature, I don't really see where else he could go. If his silhouette suddenly changed people would wonder what happened. He does seem to be quite innovative with his use of fabrics though, based on his new S/S 07 show.



  13. #13
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Long hard road out of hell
    Posts
    37,822

    Default Re: Thom Browne



    The last look (the insides of the pants showing through the sheer fabric) was possibly "inspired" by Rick Owens, who's done this a few times.



    BTW, I drove by the new store, and it was in the same building I marked when I was contemplating opening a boutique, only on the other side of the main entrance. Heh, we could've been neighbors.

    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  14. #14

    Default Re: Thom Browne

    [quote user="Faust"]

    [quote user="xcoldricex"]i like spencer hart a lot better based on photos- i haven't seen any of his suits in person yet :(
    [/quote]



    It's outstanding. That stuff makes you want to stay and just stroke the fabric (hides).



    [/quote]



    sorry, i guess i should make a nick hart thread.. but does it go on sale? i really need to try one on and (probably) pick one up at some point....


  15. #15

    Default Re: Thom Browne

    I would say my main problem with Browne is nothing conceptual, philosophical, ideaological or religious.

    Spare a couple of pieces, I just don't like the way it looks.

  16. #16
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Long hard road out of hell
    Posts
    37,822

    Default Re: Thom Browne

    [quote user="xcoldricex"][quote user="Faust"]

    [quote user="xcoldricex"]i like spencer hart a lot better based on photos- i haven't seen any of his suits in person yet :(
    [/quote]



    It's outstanding. That stuff makes you want to stay and just stroke the fabric (hides).



    [/quote]



    sorry,
    i guess i should make a nick hart thread.. but does it go on
    sale? i really need to try one on and (probably) pick one up at
    some point....



    [/quote]



    As far as I remember, it did go on sale at Bergdorf.



    Servo,
    I agree. Given the guys background, I'd assume he has excellent
    connections and found a good backer. Nothing to it, really.
    And those jackets look ill-fitting.

    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  17. #17

    Default Re: Thom Browne

    [quote user="Faust"][quote user="xcoldricex"][quote user="Faust"]

    [quote user="xcoldricex"]i like spencer hart a lot better based on photos- i haven't seen any of his suits in person yet :(
    [/quote]



    It's outstanding. That stuff makes you want to stay and just stroke the fabric (hides).



    [/quote]



    sorry,
    i guess i should make a nick hart thread.. but does it go on
    sale? i really need to try one on and (probably) pick one up at
    some point....



    [/quote]



    As far as I remember, it did go on sale at Bergdorf.



    Servo,
    I agree. Given the guys background, I'd assume he has excellent
    connections and found a good backer. Nothing to it, really.
    And those jackets look ill-fitting.



    [/quote]





    Don't they just? Unfortunately, that's probably the correct fit - Thom approved that overstuffed sausage look for this shoot, I'd imagine. I assume the model has a great, muscular body, and this is one of the reasons that models tend to be lean/skinny (whether male or female) when you want to focus on the clothing - fuller physiques can oft overwhelm the line of an outfit. I admire Browne's singular point of view, and I applaud his metier, but I also find those outfits downright fugly. The guy in my neighborhood who wears Thom Browne to work looks pretty spry whenever I see him though.


  18. #18
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Long hard road out of hell
    Posts
    37,822

    Default Re: Thom Browne

    [quote user="bakla"][quote user="Faust"][quote user="xcoldricex"][quote user="Faust"]

    [quote user="xcoldricex"]i like spencer hart a lot better based on photos- i haven't seen any of his suits in person yet :(
    [/quote]



    It's outstanding. That stuff makes you want to stay and just stroke the fabric (hides).



    [/quote]



    sorry,
    i guess i should make a nick hart thread.. but does it go on
    sale? i really need to try one on and (probably) pick one up at
    some point....



    [/quote]



    As far as I remember, it did go on sale at Bergdorf.



    Servo,
    I agree. Given the guys background, I'd assume he has excellent
    connections and found a good backer. Nothing to it, really.
    And those jackets look ill-fitting.



    [/quote]





    Don't
    they just? Unfortunately, that's probably the correct fit - Thom
    approved that overstuffed sausage look for this shoot, I'd imagine. I
    assume the model has a great, muscular body, and this is one of the
    reasons that models tend to be lean/skinny (whether male or female)
    when you want to focus on the clothing - fuller physiques can oft
    overwhelm the line of an outfit. I admire Browne's singular point of
    view, and I applaud his metier, but I also find those outfits downright
    fugly. The guy in my neighborhood who wears Thom Browne to work looks
    pretty spry whenever I see him though.



    [/quote]



    Yes,
    there is a disconnect between the
    (New)England-private-school-WASP-athlete types he chose and the slim
    look he promotes. I'm sure they'll fit better on a skinny
    person. Love his fabrics, btw. I wonder if he will end up
    as a US based quality suit maker once the infatuation with that
    silhouette goes away. What do you think? Is this style
    lasting or will he sooner or later have to get away from it?

    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  19. #19

    Default Re: Thom Browne



    I really try to not comment on things that I don't like or be negative but I do anyways...this is all my opinion, but personally I think Thom Browne is TERRIBLE. First of all, most of what is written in the article, things he has achieved, paris, harry, etc, doesnt mean anything. The design itself can still be terrible. Britney Spears is a terrible singer but she sells alot of albums. Most of the people who have been in fashion for a whileare SO out of touch with what's good now. The thing is, like someone up there said, where is he going to go with all of this? Menswear is alot easier to design than womenswear, espescially if you only do suits! How easy is that? And why is this innovative? What...?A designer shortens the pants and says, "Im sticken it to the man!" Give me a break! That's not innovative.Do a collection with more thanone idea.His whole collection is based on shorts and short pants! He's awful!If someone makes crappy art or design there is always someone there that will say it's innovative. But trueartists and great designers do things because of a hugeunderstanding and something with substance.I see alot of people talking about Carol Christian Poell and someone mentioned Rick Owens. Cmon! Compared to these two guys Thom Browne is a wannabe. A Fake, like Britney Spears.


  20. #20

    Default Re: Thom Browne



    Wow....... I know many people bust his chops but you gotta give it to him. He really has helped the boring mens suit business. I design mens and womens and there really has been a resurgence in interest for suits and I benefit from that. I think Thoms proportions are too extreme, but after years of wearing my pants way too long and snubbing english style shorter inseams, I must say I find I like a slightly shorter pant with a nice substantial classic shoe or boot. I actually really prefer the CDG way back in the 80's with the longer jacket, shorter inseam and nice shoe or boot( there is a great photo of that look in A History Of Menswear).Also I must add it is harder imo to do menswear and suits especially because we only have pant, jacket, coat, vest. The goal is to reach an audience and just maybe pay our rent with our interpretations. And I do mean interpret cause the components have not changed for hundreds of years. Women of course have more options. I think what makes CCP , RO, and many of the designers featured on this sight so exciting is that they come up with new and not so new ways to interpret the basics we are stuck with and they do it beautifully. Do you like Raf at Jil Sander? I do as equally as I like CCP.These guys make us think. Now I cant say that for Armani ( anymore I must add).I swear I thought his little suit odd at first but when you see real people in them, not as extreme as his own, it looks pretty darn suave and cool.



    [quote user="Tafkap"]



    I really try to not comment on things that I don't like or be negative but I do anyways...this is all my opinion, but personally I think Thom Browne is TERRIBLE. First of all, most of what is written in the article, things he has achieved, paris, harry, etc, doesnt mean anything. The design itself can still be terrible. Britney Spears is a terrible singer but she sells alot of albums. Most of the people who have been in fashion for a whileare SO out of touch with what's good now. The thing is, like someone up there said, where is he going to go with all of this? Menswear is alot easier to design than womenswear, espescially if you only do suits! How easy is that? And why is this innovative? What...?A designer shortens the pants and says, "Im sticken it to the man!" Give me a break! That's not innovative.Do a collection with more thanone idea.His whole collection is based on shorts and short pants! He's awful!If someone makes crappy art or design there is always someone there that will say it's innovative. But trueartists and great designers do things because of a hugeunderstanding and something with substance.I see alot of people talking about Carol Christian Poell and someone mentioned Rick Owens. Cmon! Compared to these two guys Thom Browne is a wannabe. A Fake, like Britney Spears.

    [/quote]

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •