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Thread: Boris Bidjan Saberi

  1. #501

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    Or we've entered the era of counterfeit designer books, which would be some shit.

  2. #502
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arkady View Post
    Or we've entered the era of counterfeit designer books, which would be some shit.
    FAKE SZ MAGS FOR EVERYONE!
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  3. #503

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    thanks for the info faust, however I contacted the bookstore (webster in italy) and this is what they replied

    the publisher tells us that the leather tag was expected only in the first edition, in the reprint that they did not expected this leather tag.
    Unlucky me, too late to buy this book

  4. #504
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    Oh, I see - I did not know this was reprinted.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  5. #505

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    i wouldn't sweat it. just consider it accelerated ownership. i've owned dozens of bbs pieces and the leather part of the tag almost always disintegrates eventually.

  6. #506

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    Itīs just a tag... I have some bbs garments that donīt have it as well. The book is really great, has some very interesting writing and beautiful pictures of the collections. Thatīs what matters.

  7. #507

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    Quote Originally Posted by sshum88 View Post
    my thoughts - price comes into play to some extent but I think it's really hard to tell how good some of his pieces are unless you have it in your hands. I just picked up the cashmere wool/cotton zipper2 and it's a really nice piece. None of the online sites could convey the feel and texture of the piece in their pics. The weight of the fabric gives it a nice shape enhancing how his new hood is cut.

    I bought it without ever handling it and it's more than what I would pay for a hoody. But if you think of it as outerwear (easily functions that way) then the price is not bad at all.

    Unfortunately most of us can only buy online and these days, it's a bit of a risk if you can't return it. The secondary market is down the tubes as everyone waits for the deep discounts to start. And if you can get into a store, you rely on the buyers selecting the gems in each collection.
    Could you provide some pics of the hoodie? I'm also interested in the fabric.

  8. #508

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    Believe this is the same piece: https://www.grailed.com/listings/430...e-Zipper-Hoody

    It certainly seems to me Boris is having a moment / getting quite a bit of attention right now?

    I would say given his ingenuity / youth combined with massive prior experience throughout his life we are still in the Model T era of the brand and controlled expansion tends to reduce compromise.

  9. #509

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    I think it's to do with that a lot of his competition seem to be floundering, while Boris marches forward. For me he has put quite a gap between himself and former competitors the last few years.
    "It's hard to tell the real people from those who pretend. These days I've got more shoes than I've got real friends."

  10. #510

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    What ostensibly direct competition he does have is nowhere near his level of construction quality (on average) with maybe one or two exceptions. I would love to know what the revenue and margins are like over there.

    The prices I think are actually somewhat sane as, for example, mainline Rick approaches similar price points as it approaches similar levels of quality. And the exclusivity of not putting items on deep sale makes them reasonably priced in the secondhand market, at least.

  11. #511

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    I'm not really sure what you're talking about, bbs has had more mishaps than Rick in my purchases, because the quality control is higher due to production size. I've seen tons of imperfections or shit that would be considered unsellable by Japanese standards (if that matters for anyone) on bbs, the last pair of fw15 pants I bought has a fucked up part where the stitch on what is considered the belt portion has a stitch that has deviated from the pattern on it that they felt it was okay to sell. does it bother me? no not really but for someone who has ocd tendencies, they might be inclined to return the item.
    Quote Originally Posted by unwashed View Post
    Try to use a phone camera in broad daylight or use a proper camera.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ahimsa View Post
    I've found it extremely pleasant and enthralling over repeated whiffs so I would highly recommend.

  12. #512

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    Construction quality and imperfections / misshaps that are part of the production process are separate things, no? Tag's got an entire essay about it on there.

    I haven't compared full production runs but BBS has been more solidly and durably put together than Rick from similar time frames and price points, among my purchases. I'm not necessarily talking about small issues that are theoretically part of their "experimental" process.

    I've definitely heard the pants can be bizarrely delicate for BBS -- don't own any myself.

  13. #513

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    what I'm trying to say is that a company like Rick has less leeway as to what is considered sellable compared to bbs, but I think bbs will catch up in time, I'm told the operation is getting bigger seasonally and their standards have been changing which is obviously evident if youve handled old bbs and new bbs.
    Quote Originally Posted by unwashed View Post
    Try to use a phone camera in broad daylight or use a proper camera.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ahimsa View Post
    I've found it extremely pleasant and enthralling over repeated whiffs so I would highly recommend.

  14. #514
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Indeed, they are!
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

  15. #515

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    Quote Originally Posted by TriggerDiscipline View Post
    what I'm trying to say is that a company like Rick has less leeway as to what is considered sellable compared to bbs, but I think bbs will catch up in time, I'm told the operation is getting bigger seasonally and their standards have been changing which is obviously evident if youve handled old bbs and new bbs.
    True but I think the margin is different due to different philosophies, I'm not sure if an experimental artisanal brand allowing for imperfections is a quality control issue. I get what you mean though.

  16. #516

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    sorry I don't agree, if you have a seam and you're looking at the chart of operations and it calls for 10cm and it goes off by 1.5cm for the length of half the pant then it should be redone, that's not really excusable for me. this has nothing to do with experiments or artisanal work. especially when I have the same pant from a different season and its not as messed up as this pant.

    the issue is that this went through the person responsible, the factory quality control, and the retailer meaning the standards are clearly looser than a global large scale operation that is Rick Owens

    and philosophically I get what youre trying to say but bbs is far from a "deconstructed" "raw hems" etc kind of brand in 2015, he put models on the runway with jackets inside out with pride over construction techniques
    Quote Originally Posted by unwashed View Post
    Try to use a phone camera in broad daylight or use a proper camera.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ahimsa View Post
    I've found it extremely pleasant and enthralling over repeated whiffs so I would highly recommend.

  17. #517

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    Quote Originally Posted by TriggerDiscipline View Post
    sorry I don't agree, if you have a seam and you're looking at the chart of operations and it calls for 10cm and it goes off by 1.5cm for the length of half the pant then it should be redone, that's not really excusable for me. this has nothing to do with experiments or artisanal work. especially when I have the same pant from a different season and its not as messed up as this pant.

    the issue is that this went through the person responsible, the factory quality control, and the retailer meaning the standards are clearly looser than a global large scale operation that is Rick Owens

    and philosophically I get what youre trying to say but bbs is far from a "deconstructed" "raw hems" etc kind of brand in 2015, he put models on the runway with jackets inside out with pride over construction techniques
    I think if it compromises the construction and overall strength/durability of the piece then of course that needs to be re-done. I don't want to speak for Arkady but I THINK he might mean that seeing an aspect of human interaction on a piece gives it life. A slightly imperfect seam line or a back tacked thread not cut to microscopic perfection shows someone worked with that piece, handled it. People are not perfect. Clothing that is pristine and perfect is cool, but seems a little mechanical, impersonal maybe. The piece has no character. To me these slight imperfections also make the piece "mine". Whenever I scuff my shoes or have to fix some of my clothes myself, it becomes my own. No one else has one like it. I love that corny shit.

  18. #518

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    clothes is made with a ton of handwork in it, you still need people to cut things by hand (and I'm not talking about the actual garments, just like things that need to be cut like the extra canvassing of a jacket and such) and set things by hand, and actually push the fabric to create garments. when you're paying premium dollar for something you expect the quality that comes with it. if we are going to talk margins, the cost of operations for bbs is higher due to the size of the company. in a basic sense the smaller the production/company the price has a higher percentage of having a higher price. there are brands who decide to begin to run their own fabric creation or production facilities because you're cutting out a middle man.

    so with this being said in the case of bbs they are supposedly doing everything themselves (maybe they source fabric but the rest is done in their own location)

    when the production is this close to home they should have more control over their product vs paying to have their garments made by an outside source where they might have to dish out serious cash to give the care they could give themselves. so for example at the end of production every garment gets a press/ iron that step could be skipped to cut costs and they could do it when it is recieved by the designer, etc.

    it could be because that factory more to risk (reputation for example) they have tighter standards.

    on the bbs tag it does say hand made but it doesn't say carefully hand made, although this is one example of out of all the bbs I've bought in the last two seasons, the rest hasn't had major problems besides straps on a vest bag.

    I will say that all of the seams with piping and stuff is way better than alot of the pants I've bought in the past, and it is done rather well, just wished they had tighter standards when it comes to quality control.
    Quote Originally Posted by unwashed View Post
    Try to use a phone camera in broad daylight or use a proper camera.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ahimsa View Post
    I've found it extremely pleasant and enthralling over repeated whiffs so I would highly recommend.

  19. #519

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    'Artisanal' touches are one thing, but Trigger is talking about a larger deviation, one that would affect fit and not just cosmetics. That inconsistency was obviously not intentional so it should be seen as that, an error, instead of romantic and excusable evidence of human work.

  20. #520

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    Quote Originally Posted by aussy View Post
    'Artisanal' touches are one thing, but Trigger is talking about a larger deviation, one that would affect fit and not just cosmetics. That inconsistency was obviously not intentional so it should be seen as that, an error, instead of romantic and excusable evidence of human work.
    I had just explained that clothing is human work, am I miss-communicating here? even fast fashion has human hands on it... there is no automation, things are still made by workers, if they weren't then there would be no ethical issues concerning bangladesh etc anywhere because automation
    Quote Originally Posted by unwashed View Post
    Try to use a phone camera in broad daylight or use a proper camera.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ahimsa View Post
    I've found it extremely pleasant and enthralling over repeated whiffs so I would highly recommend.

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