Haider Ackermann Women's F/W 2013 - Paris

[Ahimsa]

[Ahimsa]

[Ahimsa]

[Ahimsa]

[Ahimsa]

[Ahimsa]

[Faust]

Fucking awesome. Even better with no satin :-)

[andrew]

I disagree. Granted the colours are beautiful and i really like some of the fur looks but i have seen almost all of these garments and details before in other Haider shows. I had the same feeling last season but more so here. I dont know what happened to me between AW12 and SS13 but i suddenly started to seperate Haider the stylist from Haider the designer and it is a very unbalanced scale. Finally seeing some pieces in person was part of it i think.

On the other hand the over-long sleeved fur jacket over the green jacket and trousers is one of the best looks i can think of this season so far so not all bad.

[safeword123]

cathy horyn wasn't a fan, and she wasn't vague about it

Haider Ackermann’s show, an hour later, began in a fog. He should really resist smoke machines. They are corny. In fact, as the models moved with a deliberate air of drama — that is, slowly — I thought the clothes would look better if the women walked at a normal pace, like regular people.

Most of the clothes were just fine if not particularly new. Mr. Ackermann ditched the overly romantic layers and lavishly belted costumes and showed mainly trousers. Some were in wide-cut herringbone wool and paired with oversized shearlings or cinched jackets in washed and frayed wool. Other trousers were in his favorite roughed-up leathers. The collection looked less pretentious in attitude than previous seasons, but still full of smoke. As handsome as the frayed wool jackets were, they have been around the Paris runways in one form or another for years — at Watanabe, for instance.

[Faust]

I bet she liked Raf's bourgey fluff at Dior. Bleh.

[laika]

this is a lot more bougie than anything Raf has done.
it looks simultaneously over-designed and commercial.

cathy is right on about the smoke (and implied mirrors)...that's sadly all there is with Haider, once the clothes are off the runway. the clothes aren't even finished--let alone designed--in a way that would support the luxury his shows try to project.

edit: i've been so affirmative all season that it feels uncomfortable to be so negative...but the "fake" vibe I get from this is really off putting...

[KodakII]

Maybe its the styling and the overall silhouette, but something is off. I can't figure it out.

[Faust]

this is a lot more bougie than anything Raf has done.

now, now, let's not get carried away.

[niji248]

The reason that the models have to walk very slowly on Haider Ackermann's runways is that if they walk too fast, the "faux" drape will come undone, because they are literally just fabric tucked and tied and styled on the model and not real clothes.

[Rosenrot]

The reason that the models have to walk very slowly on Haider Ackermann's runways is that if they walk too fast, the "faux" drape will come undone, because they are literally just fabric tucked and tied and styled on the model and not real clothes.

Maybe in his earlier collections, but his recent ones are a lot more structured now.