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Leon Emanuel Blanck

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  • Ahimsa
    Vegan Police
    • Sep 2011
    • 1879

    #46
    Leon Emanuel Blanck Interview on SZ-mag

    BODY LANGUAGE: Leon Emanuel Blanck

    “I wanted to drape a piece of fabric into a pair of trousers, because molding on a human body was something we weren’t taught in fashion school” – says Leon Emanuel Blanck, the young German designer whose concise and conceptual collections, after only 4 seasons, are stocked by meccas of all things black and deconstructed such as Antonioli in Milan, Ink in Hong Kong, and SV Moscow. “I couldn’t find anyone to do it on, so I ended up doing it on myself. I had to move and turn a lot while I was at it, so I got a very distorted pair of trousers”.

    This is how Blanck’s design concept, which he calls Anfractuous Distortion, was born. To put it simply, it’s about bypassing the “paper” stage of design and pattern-making and focusing instead on the interaction of fabric and the human figure. All styles in his 14-piece collections are created using the same method: a large piece of fabric is draped around a body that bends, stretches and moves as the draping happens; seam lines are put in wherever the fabric creases during that process. “I never intentionally put a seam anywhere” – explains Blanck. “You could say that I take my design intention out of it and just register what happens when the fabric works with the body and vice versa”.

    Text by Jana Melkumova-Reynolds

    Rest of article on sz-mag

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine | Store

    Comment

    • Faust
      kitsch killer
      • Sep 2006
      • 37852

      #47
      I hope this article will put to rest all the bullshit about copying and what it looks like and whatnot.
      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

      Comment

      • zamb
        Senior Member
        • Nov 2006
        • 5834

        #48
        Originally posted by Faust View Post
        I hope this article will put to rest all the bullshit about copying and what it looks like and whatnot.
        It wont.............but why the hell should he care?
        All that matters is that the relevant people appreciates what he does.

        Probably the most interesting experimental young designer to come about in this niche in a long time
        “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
        .................................................. .......................


        Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

        Comment

        • byhand
          Senior Member
          • Dec 2011
          • 273

          #49
          Nice to see the expected stockists are picking up his line.

          Comment

          • Chinorlz
            Senior Member
            • Sep 2006
            • 6422

            #50
            Nice piece on him and a bit more details and information regarding the pattern development that he does. Impressive technique and approach that I can definitely relate to.

            It is admirable that he wants to maintain the main-line and not enter the diffusion/second line realm. I hope that business/outward pressures don't force him to compromise his distinct style and construction methods over time!

            Keep up the good work Leon!
            www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs

            Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "

            Comment

            • NOHSAD
              Senior Member
              • Nov 2014
              • 240

              #51
              Great Article on Blanck. When I first saw the S/S 15 look book my first thought was the leather pieces had a nice destructive aesthetic to them which caught my interest. After reading about the construction process Leon does, I have a greater appreciation for the designer as I've never heard of anyone creating garments directly via the human body, which I think is a progressive approach in addition to being experimental.
              "Instead of feeling alone in a group, it's better to have real solitude all by yourself"

              ShopDDavis.etsy.com

              IG: @D.__Dvais

              Comment

              • zamb
                Senior Member
                • Nov 2006
                • 5834

                #52
                Originally posted by NOHSAD View Post
                Great Article on Blanck. When I first saw the S/S 15 look book my first thought was the leather pieces had a nice destructive aesthetic to them which caught my interest. After reading about the construction process Leon does, I have a greater appreciation for the designer as I've never heard of anyone creating garments directly via the human body, which I think is a progressive approach in addition to being experimental.
                Its done in Haute Couture and in Bespoke tailoring. His Methods are unique in that he is not following traditional Pattern making methods and the "randomness of it yields results that are unique and special.

                A, I think it would be hard to make a diffusion line with this kind of approach. It already is challenging to produce the products where the pattern making is not standardized and does not conform to a process where he can create basically half of a garment and then transpose it to achieve the other half. All of the garments must necessarily be produced in a 3D format as the left and right sides are very different.
                “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                .................................................. .......................


                Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                Comment

                • NOHSAD
                  Senior Member
                  • Nov 2014
                  • 240

                  #53
                  Thanks Zamb for clearing that up for me. Haute Couture's something I don't completely follow up on hence my ignorance to that bits of info. With that said, It'll be interesting to see what he creates next.
                  "Instead of feeling alone in a group, it's better to have real solitude all by yourself"

                  ShopDDavis.etsy.com

                  IG: @D.__Dvais

                  Comment

                  • byhand
                    Senior Member
                    • Dec 2011
                    • 273

                    #54
                    Alexander Fielden is using a similar technique on accessories (bags and wallets) and a a few pieces of clothing but in a way that is not as exacting as what LEB is doing. To have irregular seaming not compromise the overall silhouette is impressive. The hooded leather available at INK is maddeningly tempting.

                    Comment

                    • dji
                      Senior Member
                      • Feb 2008
                      • 3020

                      #55
                      very interesting article and technique, I guess I can't expect a lined jacket from him then though.

                      Comment

                      • Lucky Strike
                        Senior Member
                        • Apr 2009
                        • 101

                        #56
                        Originally posted by Faust View Post
                        The jackets fit like a glove. Tried one on in Paris, did not want to take it off.
                        Had the exact same experience yesterday. Not the same jacket, but the dark gray/black with hood.
                        It felt like an armour, hugging you in all the right places. Need to save cash!


                        Comment

                        • holger
                          Senior Member
                          • Mar 2009
                          • 430

                          #57
                          LE PARADOX - Interview
                          Exclusive: In Conversation with Leon Emanuel Blanck

                          Video

                          Originally posted by TheNotoriousT
                          SZ Stock ausm Arsch und entspannen!

                          Comment

                          • woof
                            Junior Member
                            • May 2014
                            • 19

                            #58
                            noticed in some retailer pics there's kind of an awkward bulge in the back around the armpit area on one side, and fitted on the other side (cause of the random pattern)... i think (and correct me if i'm wrong) his leathers are one of these things you really wanna try on first, cuz they're tailored on someone's body that may not fit yours well at all.

                            Comment

                            • 550BC
                              Senior Member
                              • Jan 2013
                              • 783

                              #59
                              random pattern? It all has a purpose whether it's for functionality or philosophic. I am a big Sci-Fi fan and can easily see why he adds these details and does this construction method. It makes a lot of sense.

                              To ease your worries, you can just ask the retailer for your ideal size so if you pick out your true size, it might just work 10x better to fit your body due it's made to synchronise with your body, just like Body Molded jackets are. I tried on his leathers and they fit insanely good.

                              Like Faust said before

                              Originally posted by Faust View Post
                              The jackets fit like a glove. Tried one on in Paris, did not want to take it off.
                              a fish out of water dies

                              Comment

                              • Fenix
                                Senior Member
                                • Aug 2010
                                • 522

                                #60
                                Woof has a point. Just because it fit your or faust's body well doesn't mean that it will work for the next guy who is the same size.

                                Take Lucky Strike's fit below....he basically said the jacket fit like a glove. However, it doesn't appear to fit that way. This could be due to the way he is standing/posing though.

                                I would definitely want to see how the leathers worked with movement based on the methodology around the seam work. It's super interesting and progressive work but if those seams don't fall perfect on your body, the piece will look awkward when you move.
                                Originally posted by hausofblaq
                                Grow up.

                                Comment

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