What machine produces stitches like this?

[smudge]

Could someone tell me what machine produces these stitches:
I've been told it's an overlock stitch but my 4 thread overlock machine can't produce stitching like that.

As well as these? (or is this hand stitched?):


Thanks!

[narziss]

the bottom picture looks like handstitching to me. at a guess i'd say it's a continous over and over stitch stitched loosely (or with a spacer in between the fabric and the stitches that gets pulled out once the stitching is done) so the thread shows once the pieces of fabric have been pulled apart. this method does produce stitches like that (i could make a short tutorial if needed, but it's really easy), but it's quite laborious, and even with a proper stitching pony i'm guessing it would take several hours to sew a pair of jeans. i don't know about machines though.

[lowrey]

its overlock stitching, I imagine its more achievable with an industrial serger though than a household one.

how visible the stitching is depends on the tension, normally it looks like regular stitching to the outside (like you'd see on most t-shirts or whatever basic garments), but when the stitch is looser it'll leave much more of the stitch visible to the outside. I'm not sure how much you can adjust a modern household machine.

This is just my amateur understanding, I'm sure someone else can give better info.

[Chinorlz]

both are done with serger/overlock machines with a loose setting to allow it to "part" on the outside. Both of the above garments have a previously done straight stitch to actually hold the fabric together and the overlock is run over it again to create that detail. Amadei's early aviator versions are also done this way.

[i-d-g]

^^could i use this method on jersey fabric as well, or would the straight stitch not hold up due to the stretch?

[LiveinblacK]

both Both of the above garments have a previously done straight stitch to actually hold the fabric together and the overlock is run over it again to create that detail.

So is the straight stitch being trimmed off when you overlock it?

[lowrey]

So is the straight stitch being trimmed off when you overlock it?

it isn't usually trimmed, the whole seam would break easily otherwise or stretch and make the overlocking uneven.

[Faust]

^^could i use this method on jersey fabric as well, or would the straight stitch not hold up due to the stretch?

I would imagine that jersey is too delicate to take the overlock stitch. You'll probably mangle the fabric.

[lowrey]

most jersey t-shirts for example are overlocked, but its a regular "tight" overlock. a loose/visible stitch is probably more challenging, but I've seen it being on some very light and delicate fabrics, so I guess its just a matter of getting the tensions and the feed on the machine right. with wear, stretching and washing, it could behave a bit differently than on sturdier fabrics.

this is on almost sheer cashmere:

[snafu]

Amadei's work was done on a baby locker, its different.

Carol has a patent for his stitch as its not as simple as an overlock... he uses far too heavy/thick a thread to be used by any regular machine.

[zamb]

there are several different machines that you can use to acheive this stitch,

1. Any industrial overlock machine with a two or three thread configuration with loose tensions...........however on a regular industrial Overlock, the loopers (the two things inside the machine other than the needle through which you have to string the thread) are two small for a thread heavier than Tex 60
2. There are several kinds of Blanket Stitch/ Carpet Overlock machines that are the same set up as a regular overlock but are better for much heavier threads. They do not cut the fabric and the loopers are much bigger to accommodate the kind of thread that Carol and others use...I have three of them in my Studio, all slightly different stitches, but gives basically the same kind of visual result
3. An industrial Zig- Zag Machine, like say, a Singer 20U or a Pfaff double needle Zig Zag (I have one of these) can also give you the same kind of visuals. on the surface even though the internal stitching is different

Heavier Jerseys can take this kind of stitch on the heavier Machines if you are using a ball point needle, lighter jerseys are better made on a regular industrial overlock with loose tensions on the needle and loopers

[LiveinblacK]

it isn't usually trimmed, the whole seam would break easily otherwise or stretch and make the overlocking uneven.

I see. Just wasn't sure if the single needle thread was being used as a stay stitch

[smudge]

Thanks for the replies guys. I never thought of trying to lower the tension on specific threads in order to get it to pull apart. I'll try it out and let you guys know how it goes. So if i understand correctly, if I were to go the route lowrey suggested, I should lockstitch the pieces in place then do a loose overlock in addition to it, but without trimming off the edges to achieve the aesthetic.

Zamb, is there one technique that you would recommend over any others, in terms of ease of implementation, strength, or any other aspect? And by carpet overlock, is that just an overlock machine used for carpet or is it a different machine all together?

[zamb]

Thanks for the replies guys. I never thought of trying to lower the tension on specific threads in order to get it to pull apart. I'll try it out and let you guys know how it goes. So if i understand correctly, if I were to go the route lowrey suggested, I should lockstitch the pieces in place then do a loose overlock in addition to it, but without trimming off the edges to achieve the aesthetic.

Zamb, is there one technique that you would recommend over any others, in terms of ease of implementation, strength, or any other aspect? And by carpet overlock, is that just an overlock machine used for carpet or is it a different machine all together?

I use this still pretty regular in my work, and I dont know what to tell you.
I have a carpet overlock, and yes it is a different machine from a regular overlock machine. it does not cut as it doesn't have a blade, and it is able to accommodate heavier threads, heavier fabric and even very thick leather without any issues.

the machine/ technique you use all depends on experimenting to see what gives you the best result. however I doubt you'll be able to experiment if you only have one type of machine.......

[fulvster]

Hi everyone. I am new here, so much so that I only joined because I saw Smudge's question and I know the answer. I had to wait to be approved so I hope I am now not too late and that you are still curious about the answer. Any domestic serger/overlocker machine allows you to stitch a two or three thread FLATLOCK stitch; the photo you inquired about is the reverse or "ladder" stitch side of the flatlock serged stitch which is often used for its decorative purpose. Search for "flatlock" serged stitch online and you will find tutorials, videos, everything you need to guide you, or feel free to contact me and I will guide you, if you wish.

Now I will look around and see what you are all doing here and learn something.

Hope this helps a bit. Thanks.