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I think this collection looks great, although it's not in my own aesthetic and I wouldn't wear it. He mentioned in an interview that this collection is "body-conscious" and that feels about right.
Honestly, though, I'm not seeing the Cloak connection that others are identifying in his recent work except a handful of pieces from the first collection. He often says that he's doing a grown-up version of Cloak, but most of this stuff feels a lot more youthful to me than did Cloak (and maybe that's a good thing for the designer). His recent work, including this one, feels to me to concentrate more on silhouette, minimalism, and proportions. I've sensed that in some AP button-ups that I wear regularly, in that they're now built around a single idea -- usually how and where the shirt pinches the body, where the pockets sit on the chest, etc. For the most part, Cloak was deliberately understated riffs on pre-WWII clothing that demanded you take more than a 2-second glance to see their uniqueness. What I like (and very much dislike) about recent AP collections is that the understated-ness of subtle details has completely disappeared in favor of cultivating new shapes and proportions.
Honestly, though, I'm not seeing the Cloak connection that others are identifying in his recent work except a handful of pieces from the first collection. He often says that he's doing a grown-up version of Cloak, but most of this stuff feels a lot more youthful to me than did Cloak (and maybe that's a good thing for the designer). His recent work, including this one, feels to me to concentrate more on silhouette, minimalism, and proportions. I've sensed that in some AP button-ups that I wear regularly, in that they're now built around a single idea -- usually how and where the shirt pinches the body, where the pockets sit on the chest, etc. For the most part, Cloak was deliberately understated riffs on pre-WWII clothing that demanded you take more than a 2-second glance to see their uniqueness. What I like (and very much dislike) about recent AP collections is that the understated-ness of subtle details has completely disappeared in favor of cultivating new shapes and proportions.
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